Stitch count when sewing tulle or no-see-um.

[koaloha05]

Left the stitch count to what it was set on for sewing ripstop. Mock up 1/4 scale bug sock prototype stitches looked ok. Wondering if there is an ideal stitch count for sewing netting? A count for maximum strength of the seam? Something I didn't consider when sewing skins & ditty bags. So far the stitches have held up.

[Rat]

6-8 per inch, never had a problem.

[Red Wing]

What should it be for ripstop? Could be handy since I'm making my UQ tonight for a trip on wednesday.

[nacra533]

Stitch count isn't a magic number by itself. Needle, thread size and tension play into it also. If it puckers from thread tension, it's too long, common in lightweight nylons. If it needle puckers (from too many pokes), it's too short. Needle puckering in nylon is not usually a problem unless you are using very small thread and a very small needle (less than 30 wt and less than #9needle). If you have too low of a sticth count with a larger needle and thread, the stitches pile up and it makes a mess and doesn't feed.

I use about 2-3 mm stitch length in silnylon. You do the math. If it starts acting up, I change it a little.

For example, when stitching the flat felled seam in sil with a #9 needle and 30wt thread, I can get by with a 2.5mm stitch. When I transition to the binding tape, #9 is a little small for a needle size so I may change it to a #12 if it breaks. I also up the stitch length to about 3-3.5mm once I change the needle. Grossgrain resists puckering much better than nylon so you can use a longer stitch.

If I'm doing the same flat felled ridgeline in sil with a #12 needle (which likely means I'm using 46 weight thread), I'll up the stitch length to 3 mm in nylon and continue it in the grossgrain.

As far as the netting....
Netting "tension" puckers pretty much with any stitch length. Something between 2mm to 3mm should work. You'll find you're stitching in the "holes" of the netting so not too much to support the stitches. In my experience for netting.. I find a loose tension, loose presser foot, 3mm or so stitch length, 46 weight thread and 12 needle work well for me. I keep reducing tension AND presser foot pressure until the netting stops bunching up and feeds evenly. It will pucker a little, but not excessively. There is nothing to bury the knot in, so I try to use a light tension that doesn't excessively pucker the netting.

Netting feeds a little irregularly so if the bottom is feeding faster than the top OR if the bottom keeps creeping right/top keeps creeping left reduce presser foot pressure.
It's gonna pucker. If it is puckering badly, reduce top tension. If that does not help, reduce top and bottom tension. For netting, I don't worry about loose tension or even almost sloppy loose tension. The netting stretches a lot anyway.

[Bradley]

I just pulled out my Clark NX150

the count is 6 stitches per inch for both nylon and no-see-um . . .

Hope that helps

[Big Jim Mac]

Good stuff to know, thanks for posting. I'm sewing up a tarp and had to do a lot of seam ripping, made me realize I need longer stitch lengths! Those tight short ones are almost impossible to rip out.

[Ramblinrev]

Shorter stitch length helps around curves. Longer stitch length helps with a good straight seam. But there is no "magic" number. I tend to stitch pretty much anything and everything with a 3 mm length. Unless I am doing a buttonhole, sewing a tight curve or dong a removable basting stitch. The first one I use a very short short zigzag. The second I use a shorter than usual stitch. The third I use the longest stitch I have.