how do you hang indoors?

**rjcress** · 11-15-2010, 18:06

I was thinking that I would not need a hammock stand since I have trees in my yard that I can use.
However, I'm a candy-@!# when it comes to cold.
I want a way to hang indoors, or at least set up my hammocks and get in them indoors, even if I'm not sleeping overnight.
As I experiment with DIY hammock design variations I find myself wearing a path out the back door and to the hanging trees. I'll modify or make a hammock in the nice warm house, but then have to bundle up and head outdoors to test it. That is getting old quick... and it doesn't even get REALLY cold around here (NC)... I just hate the cold.

Just curious what you all do to hang indoors.

I like the stand that sandpiper made:
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=24083

and have considered buying something like this:
http://bit.ly/aLmNPr
$137 shipped via FedEx

The problem is space.
well, sort of. I've actually got room for a big indoor stand, but don't care to haul it up to the third floor and have it take up most of my "office".

Anyone have other solutions that I should consider?
I can't imagine that wall studs are sufficient to hold a hammock, if I were to run an eye bolt into them.

**MoKo** · 11-15-2010, 18:12

I screwed to big rings into the wall studs and use carabiners .. been hanging for a few years on them with no issues.

They don't take up room like a stand.

**pgibson** · 11-15-2010, 18:15

For a stand many of us have one sold by Agrisupply, around $50 shipped. It's ok but not the best stand out there. I built my house and know what is in the walls, so I threw in some big lag bolts in my upstairs bonus room, just about 12 feet wide so it works for most hammocks if I don't care how high they are hung, or if I don't care 100% about getting to 30degrees. Though if you don't know for 100% whats in the walls, most discourage against drilling into your studs.

**Knotty** · 11-15-2010, 18:27

Wall studs can work, just be careful. Try to pick locations that provide added strength, such as the studs at inside corners or the double studs that frequently run along windows and doors. (Don't anchor into door or window frames)

Instead of eyebolts, use padeyes from Bosuns Supplies with heavy duty screws from SPAX at Home Depot.

Hardware
Pad eyes. Item No. S3705-0008. $5.83 each.
http://www.bosunsupplies.com/product...roduct=S370-OP

[/QUOTE]

**rjcress** · 11-15-2010, 19:23

Interesting knotty.
Why pad eyes instead of eyebolts?
I would expect that with an eyebolt you would not have to worry about compressing the dry wall like a surface mounted pad eye would.

**tiger1dd** · 11-15-2010, 19:35

I have a hallway with 2 doors on opposite sides at opposite ends. They are exactly 10 ft apart from where you can hook in. I just use a large knot in my webbing, put it behind the hinge, and shut the door. The system essentially just spreads the weight out.

I'll try to post some pictures in a while.

Good luck!

**Bubba** · 11-15-2010, 21:48

Part of my basement is unfinished with the main floor joists exposed so I drilled two holes in the same joist about 12 feet apart (as far I could go) and hang from them.

**MedicineMan** · 11-15-2010, 21:57

i know working with sheet rock is a witch but you could always remove a panel and beef up the studs you plan on using then replaster

**rjcress** · 11-16-2010, 09:07

Originally Posted by tiger1dd

I have a hallway with 2 doors on opposite sides at opposite ends. They are exactly 10 ft apart from where you can hook in. I just use a large knot in my webbing, put it behind the hinge, and shut the door. The system essentially just spreads the weight out.

I'll try to post some pictures in a while.

Good luck!

That is brilliant!
Thanks for sharing. I don't have any doors aligned to work like this, but what a cool solution.

**rjcress** · 11-16-2010, 09:12

Originally Posted by MedicineMan

i know working with sheet rock is a witch but you could always remove a panel and beef up the studs you plan on using then replaster

Thanks. This gave me an idea. I think I have access to the back-side of the walls in my top floor (was originally an attic, and has 1/2 height walls that go up from the floor to intersect the sloped roofline). I may crawl around back there and see if I can tie in to some other supports to spread the load.

I'm not remotely motivated enough to tackle sheetrock. That stuff is evil.