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Thread: How to hang

  1. #11
    New Member Skeebo's Avatar
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    I originally purchased these from home depot but I'm not convinced it will work. Besides, I think there is probably a better alternative. Maybe a larger bracket with mounting holes further apart to displace the load better. The genius at Lowes said to just drill and thread two eye bolts in the wall and call it good.
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  2. #12
    Senior Member KayakCarl's Avatar
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    The anchors, and brackets that you have there will work fine as long as the wall is made with solid block.

  3. #13
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    Looks large enough for a Byer Vario hammock stand to me. Hey, it works in my backyard.

  4. #14
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    it looks like that only the party walls are block, and most likely they are not soild, or filled with concreet. pic #1- you could drill a hole about 7' 3" above the poured floor as close as you can to the corner(left of the double window) this would place the far end inside that room, where you could bolt a 2x6 so that it extends over at least two studs (at least one stud on each side of the bolt hole, please) on the other end of the hammock pic#2 you do the same to the left of that corner. adjust the hole locations for optimal hammock hang. i'd say make the bolts out of 1/2" all thread , with a big washer and nut on the inside and finish 'em both off with a lifting eyes, and bobs yer uncle! check with your associaton rules to see if you can do this to youre outside space- and by all means-get permission from the "beter half"
    Last edited by the_gr8t_waldo; 11-21-2010 at 02:54.

  5. #15
    New Member Skeebo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianWillan View Post
    If you can move your anchor down one of the wall sections that is 53.5" so that the net diagonal length is closer to 14' or 15' then you won't need to have your anchor points so high to get a proper hang angle. If the walls are concrete (solid or block) you could use the lead anchor shields and then screw in a screw hook of sufficient size then you should be fine to hang from.

    I am not an engineer so if one of the local quants wants to chime in, they can feel free to do so.

    Cheers

    Brian.
    Brian, I understand the concept of placing an anchor down the wall closer to the sliding glass door to shorten my overall hang distance. I dont understand what you mean by using the lead anchor shield and screw hook. What is a lead anchor shield? Sorry for any confusion.

  6. #16
    New Member Skeebo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_gr8t_waldo View Post
    it looks like that only the party walls are block, and most likely they are not soild, or filled with concreet. pic #1- you could drill a hole about 7' 3" above the poured floor as close as you can to the corner(left of the double window) this would place the far end inside that room, where you could bolt a 2x6 so that it extends over at least two studs (at least one stud on each side of the bolt hole, please) on the other end of the hammock pic#2 you do the same to the left of that corner. adjust the hole locations for optimal hammock hang. i'd say make the bolts out of 1/2" all thread , with a big washer and nut on the inside and finish 'em both off with a lifting eyes, and bobs yer uncle! check with your associaton rules to see if you can do this to youre outside space- and by all means-get permission from the "beter half"
    I believe all exterior walls are block concrete on my building. I have thought about mounting brackets to hang from to a piece of wood and then mounting the wood to the concrete. As for studs, I don't think there are any and all the interior studs are all metal which wouldn't be good for mounting anyways. What are lifting eyes and bobs yer uncle?

  7. #17
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    the same would apply to metal as well as wooden studs- the trick is to spread out the load, so that it's carried by as many studs as possible http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&q...iw=651&bih=747 these are lifting eyes( probably known by other names as well- they are a lot stronger than the formed eyes we see in H.D. and are made so that strain can be applyed in any direction ( not the case with formed eyes) cast as one peice and machined threads.they do cost a bit more- hang yer hammock from these... "bobs yer uncle"- i was told by well meaning friend that it's a widely used term used by the good folk in the S.E for "you're good to go" ... no?
    Last edited by the_gr8t_waldo; 11-23-2010 at 10:45.

  8. #18
    Senior Member cosmicmiami's Avatar
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    The block cells adjacent to any openings should have rebar and be tied in to the header and/or poured tie beam above. I would bet that you also have a poured column to the left of the window in the pic with the dinette set.
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  9. #19
    New Member Skeebo's Avatar
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    gr8t waldo, thanks for the explanation of the lifting eyes, I can see how these would make sense but I won't have a way to attach them to the concrete block. The brackets I have are rated at 5,000 pounds so I'm not worried about them failing. Its the the wall and the way I attach the brackets that Im worried about. One of the employees at Lowes suggested these toggles when I went back for a concrete drill bit. I asked the guy if he had any experience in concrete block wall construction and his response was "unfortunately to much experience" and he assured me that these were the mounting toggles I need. He stated these are the strongest rated mounting hardware for concrete block that is not poured. The package states they are rated at 1,080 lbs for each toggle. They are very similar to a butterfly toggle but they are one solid piece, not hinged. Do you or any one else have any experience with these types of toggles or any reasons anyone feels these would be a bad idea. Sorry about the whole "bobs yer uncle". I can be a little slow sometimes and I just wasn't pickin up what you were laying down.

    cosmicmiami, I appreciate the advise on the building construction, now I have a better understanding of what is actually behind or, in my walls which helps me decide my final mounting location using the brackets and mounts I have.

    One last question, I want to mount the brackets with one to the left of the sliding glass door going towards the wall with the window and one on the solid common/shared wall by the screen door. Is there any problems with this. If not then the total distance between these locations will be approx. 17 feet. From what I've read at 15 feet the height should be approximately 6 feet. How much higher do my mounts need to be to get the proper hang.
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  10. #20
    Senior Member cosmicmiami's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skeebo View Post
    One last question, I want to mount the brackets with one to the left of the sliding glass door going towards the wall with the window and one on the solid common/shared wall by the screen door. Is there any problems with this. If not then the total distance between these locations will be approx. 17 feet. From what I've read at 15 feet the height should be approximately 6 feet. How much higher do my mounts need to be to get the proper hang.
    That mounting hardware looks good for the block walls. You would need to use something different if you run into a solid poured column or a poured cell. I would suspect either a poured column or poured cells next to the slider. If it is a poured column, it will have steel in it so beware if you drill it and the bit just stops. You would then need to move up or down a few inches to clear the rebar "cage". It is difficult to describe how the rebar in a column is configured. If there is any housing construction in your area take a look around and maybe you will see some half-built homes with the rebar still exposed.

    As for drilling into a poured block cell, there is typically just one bar in a cell so you shouldn't have any difficulty with the steel. You will know if you are drilling into an empty cell once you penetrate the block.

    One caution on drilling the wall over by the window. If there is a bathroom on the other side of the wall, there is a chance you will have plumbing running in the empty cells. No bathroom? Well, there is no guarantee that there isn't plumbing there but chances are slim.

    Good luck.
    Health nuts are going to feel stupid someday, lying in hospitals dying of nothing.
    ~Redd Foxx

    "In wildness is the preservation of the world."
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