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  1. #1
    Senior Member Tendertoe's Avatar
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    "New Suspension" Assistance

    New to me that is.

    Would this work?
    Left to right: treestrap working end doubled back on itself, toggle/trailstick/etc., dead eye of whoopie, adjustable end of whoopie, dutch biner, chainlink, hammock








    Girth hitch the dead eye of whoopie and tighten.

    My thought is that the toggle or trail stick is only undergoing "compression" forces as you are not actually hanging off the toggle.

    The main reason I ask is I am attempting to go toggleless and am wondering if a trail stick could withstand the kind of force I'd be subjecting it to with this setup.

    It appears that this is, in essence, the same setup as a MSH with a toggle but more "idiot proof" as the girth hitch is not slipping off the toggle.

    Come to think about it, as I am typing this, you could do a girth behind a MSH too. Would this work as well?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Just Jeff's Avatar
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    What's the purpose of the biner near the hammock? Why not just larkshead the sling's fixed eye to the hammock and put the working end around the toggle?
    “Republics are created by the virtue, public spirit, and intelligence of the citizens. They fall when the wise are banished from the public councils because they dare to be honest, and the profligate are rewarded because they flatter the people, in order to betray them.” ~Judge Joseph Story

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  3. #3
    Senior Member Tendertoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just Jeff View Post
    What's the purpose of the biner near the hammock? Why not just larkshead the sling's fixed eye to the hammock and put the working end around the toggle?
    This was my thought process for dutch biner near the hammock:

    -you can entirely remove the suspension for multiple hammocks (as long as they all have chainlinks) - traveller, etc.

    -dutch biner replaces drip strip (haven't previously had an issue, but still)

    -allows the fixed eye to be at the treestrap end so I could girth hitch behind the MSH and toggle (idiot proof so the whoopie aint slipping no way)

    -with my wbbb, i can rotate the hammock 180* after setup, if need be, to change the opening direction (don't know why I would, but still an option)

    I previously had the aforementioned setup with a true biner rather than a toggle on the treestrap (partly because I already had them, partly because I fear slipping off the toggle), so I've been experimenting.

  4. #4
    Senior Member rip waverly's Avatar
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    jeff becking

    he's just "jeff becking"

    seriously though, i've had my whoopie slip off the marlin spiked toggle

    and this suspension idea comes primarily from "the dutch", with a few idiot proof changes.

    i do like the versatility to switch the wbbb opening, and exchange whoopies, etc.
    "Jeff-Becking"

    DOWNTOWN BROWN!!!!

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    He could girth hitch the working end to the strap as he's done above, but he'd have to be sure the whoopie length adjustment is good to go before making the girth hitch as it would be a chore to adjust once you've hitched to the strap. With his method, you don't have that issue.

    Plus, I've always liked the idea of being able to separate the suspension from the hammock. That allows me to use small fixed length chains links at home on my hammock stand without a bunch of suspension laying on the ground. For the cost of some small chain links and Dutch biners, I think the penalty is worth it.

    ~Dan

  6. #6
    Member Moxie's Avatar
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    that almost exactly how i have me suspension set up for my BB...except for the fact that I larks headed the fixxed eye end of my whoopie to one of the loops on my tree hugger

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    The more I look at this, the more I like it. I guess one concern would be the strap slipping over the toggle and slowly (or quickly) lowering you to the ground, something that could not happen with the MSH. The friction caused by the girth hitch is the only thing preventing the straps from sliding around the toggle in the above arrangement. It may be completely sufficient, though.

    ~Dan

  8. #8
    Senior Member Tendertoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyBoy2k View Post
    The more I look at this, the more I like it. I guess one concern would be the strap slipping over the toggle and slowly (or quickly) lowering you to the ground, something that could not happen with the MSH. The friction caused by the girth hitch is the only thing preventing the straps from sliding around the toggle in the above arrangement. It may be completely sufficient, though.

    ~Dan
    I agree, in hindsight I love the MSH but still with the girth "past it" so as to not slip off the toggle. It may be an unfounded fear, but as grammy always said, "better safe than sorry little tendertoe"

  9. #9
    Dutch's Avatar
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    If I could suggest something...turn the whoopie around and attach it to the hugger. Then you can click the biner to the loop on the hammock. The biner becomes the disconnection point, you still have the water break, you can shorten the hugger, you can pack your wet suspension seperately and you won't slip off a marlin spike hitch toggle.

    Second way in this vid.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrYQMW9SHik
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  10. #10
    Member Moxie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyBoy2k View Post
    He could girth hitch the working end to the strap as he's done above, but he'd have to be sure the whoopie length adjustment is good to go before making the girth hitch as it would be a chore to adjust once you've hitched to the strap. With his method, you don't have that issue.
    Same here. And the fact of being able to detach the suspension for different reasons. I do this so I don't have to have 4 complete suspensions for each of my hammocks. I can just take the suspension and use it for any of my hammocks, except for my bridge hammock, which I have yet to play around with or even set up.

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