is there a REAL difference between the two?

**skar578** · 12-16-2007, 18:51

the 6000yd cone of polyester at speer is $9.95 and a tex of 30, compared to the thru-hiker thread at $13.95 with a tex of 40.

so, is there a real difference between the two? I think the t-h is a bit stronger, but does that justify $4 and shipping from another store? I am ordering the 1.9 and maybe bugnet from him too.

thanks!

**Mule** · 12-16-2007, 22:54

In my opinion there is no difference for the type of gear we make. The way the gear is sewed is as important as the thread used. I use the off the shelf stuff myself. And there is something to be said about a breaking point being planned. In other words, if you are going to have a failure, I would rather have it in a seam rather than the seam holding and the fabric being the weakest link. Just my opinion, not a real educated answer. Mule

**skar578** · 12-16-2007, 23:15

i thibg the diff is so small we wouldnt even notice it. and that the holes created by the thread will result in more problems.

**Cannibal** · 12-17-2007, 09:09

I have NO idea where I saw it, but I read an article online about the REAL differences in thread. They had some magnified pics of several different brands of thread; for high end to low end stuff. The higher end stuff didn't even look like the same material in those pics. The cheap stuff was VERY ROUGH up close, with little frizzies all over the place. The higher end stuff was mostly smooth, with just a few frizzies.

I think it boils down to how often do you want to clean your machine?

**NCPatrick** · 12-17-2007, 09:13

Are you saying there's a large difference between 30 and 40 "tex" (whatever that is)???

AND you mean you're supposed to clean your machine?

**Cannibal** · 12-17-2007, 09:16

If I knew what 'tex' was.....then maybe.

I was just pointing out that the difference in threads seems to come down to the quality of the spinning of the thread. One is loose, the other tight.

Originally Posted by NCPatrick

AND you mean you're supposed to clean your machine?

Scuttlebutt (rumor) as far as I'm concerned.

**headchange4u** · 12-17-2007, 09:22

Originally Posted by Cannibal

I have NO idea where I saw it, but I read an article online about the REAL differences in thread. They had some magnified pics of several different brands of thread; for high end to low end stuff. The higher end stuff didn't even look like the same material in those pics. The cheap stuff was VERY ROUGH up close, with little frizzies all over the place. The higher end stuff was mostly smooth, with just a few frizzies.

I think it boils down to how often do you want to clean your machine?

The frizzies are one of the big differences I have noticed in the different types of thread I have used. If your thread is prone to developing those little fuzz balls, it will jam in your needle or in the bobbin case and cause the machine to stop.

If you can find that article again, please link to it. It sounds like and interesting read (OMG I am interested in an article on thread. I fear for my man card.

).

I clean and oil my machine before a really big project like a tarp or quilt. That means it gets oiled and cleaned 2-3 times per year.

**NCPatrick** · 12-17-2007, 09:23

Originally Posted by headchange4u

I clean and oil my machine before a really big project like a tarp or quilt. That means it gets oiled and cleaned 2-3 times per year.

Wow, maybe you could post an article on THAT...

**headchange4u** · 12-17-2007, 09:39

Originally Posted by NCPatrick

Wow, maybe you could post an article on THAT...

It's not as grand as it sounds.

It consists of taking the bobbin case out and using compressed air to blow out the "thread dust", a couple of drops of oil where the manual tells you, and then using the compressed air to blow off transmission that drives the needle. That's about it.