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  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    winter tarp questions

    I am planning on making a winter tarp. I originally was going to make it 11' at the ridgeline and 15' at the base. I would bring the 2' (at the base) doors in to close the ends up. I have looked at pics of winter tarps and the base at the side is less than at the ridgeline. I guess my question is: could I have 11' at the ridgeline and 12' at the base with the stakeout points 2' in from each end? The bottoms would then be 8' long. When staked for closed doors, looking at the side, the ridgeline would be 11' and the bottom would be 8'. Does this make sense? Does it sound workable and warm. Also using
    60" material I would have 10' width giving me 5' on each side. What do you think about making it 12' wide? Is this too much tarp? I haven't been able to find the dimensions of commercial tarps. Thanks for any comments.

  2. #2
    Senior Member genegene's Avatar
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    I am also working on a home made tarp as well and would also like to know some other things.

    Where can I get 144" x 144" (12ft x 12ft) silnylon? I am useing the Eureka Chrysalis and the standard stuff in width is not wide enough to cover it end to end. I am working on a practice home made 4 season tarp and I have 2 seems on the sides that I don't want in the final.

    Why do all the tarps that I see have slight curves on the sides and bottoms?

  3. #3
    Senior Member JCINMA's Avatar
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    charley:

    A tarp that is has a smaller ridgeline than side length is certainly unconventional, but I see no reason it couldn't work.

    genegene:

    As far as I know, sil is not manufactured at that width. Usually tarp manufacturers make sure to beef up the seams and use that as a ridgeline.

    Good luck to both of you!
    Be like Bob

  4. #4
    Senior Member ArcsandSparks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by genegene View Post
    Why do all the tarps that I see have slight curves on the sides and bottoms?
    It's called a "cat" cut. It allows you to have a tighter pitch. It makes it so the center of the tarp's (between staked out corners) bottom edge, is pulled tight instead of flapping in the wind.
    Just when I thought you couldn't possibly be any dumber, you go and do something like this... and totally redeem yourself!

  5. #5
    Senior Member MAD777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by genegene View Post
    Why do all the tarps that I see have slight curves on the sides and bottoms?
    Those curves are called catenary curves. If you hang a chain from two poles, gravity will make the chain form this mathematical curve.

    We use this curve on ridgeline seams and tarp edges to prevent the tarp from fluttering in the wind.

    If we're going to be hammock ambassadors, we need to fly a tight tarp

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by charley View Post
    When staked for closed doors, looking at the side, the ridgeline would be 11' and the bottom would be 8'. Does this make sense? Does it sound workable and warm.
    Yes, it makes sense - most winter tarps work that way. The less space inside, the "warmer" you will feel although, in reality, you're not going to warm up the entire interior with one body.

    Quote Originally Posted by charley View Post
    What do you think about making it 12' wide? Is this too much tarp? I haven't been able to find the dimensions of commercial tarps. Thanks for any comments.
    Twelve feet wide would be palatial and would allow a higher ridgeline to be used, giving close to standing room but... that's a lot of tarp to carry and control in the wind. Still, it would be nice. For dimensions, keep looking. SCLittlefield gives dimensions for his winter tarp, I believe. Someone put together a spreadsheet a while back comparing tarps, including their sizes. Search the Weather Protection forum for it


    Quote Originally Posted by genegene View Post
    Where can I get 144" x 144" (12ft x 12ft) silnylon? I am useing the Eureka Chrysalis and the standard stuff in width is not wide enough to cover it end to end. I am working on a practice home made 4 season tarp and I have 2 seems on the sides that I don't want in the final.

    Why do all the tarps that I see have slight curves on the sides and bottoms?
    Sil doesn't come wider than about 60". Most tarps have a single seam at the ridgeline to accommodate the fabric width.

    The slight curves are catenary cuts to aid in getting a taut tarp when pitched, They are not absolutely necessary but are a "nice to have" on large tarps.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Rilmoigan's Avatar
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    Is this what ou are thinking of...?

    Charley,

    Take a look at this pic (from the warbonnetoutdoors site) of the 'new' Superfly w/doors:

    http://www.warbonnetoutdoors.com/gal...&g2_itemId=145

    The lower edges of the tarp are (if I remember correctly) 2 feet longer than the ridgeline.
    "The green earth, say you? That is itself a mighty matter of legend, though you tread it under the light of day." -Aragorn, 'The Two Towers' by J.R.R. Tolkien

  8. #8
    New Member matto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by charley View Post
    I am planning on making a winter tarp. I originally was going to make it 11' at the ridgeline and 15' at the base. I would bring the 2' (at the base) doors in to close the ends up. I have looked at pics of winter tarps and the base at the side is less than at the ridgeline. I guess my question is: could I have 11' at the ridgeline and 12' at the base with the stakeout points 2' in from each end? The bottoms would then be 8' long. When staked for closed doors, looking at the side, the ridgeline would be 11' and the bottom would be 8'. Does this make sense? Does it sound workable and warm. Also using
    60" material I would have 10' width giving me 5' on each side. What do you think about making it 12' wide? Is this too much tarp? I haven't been able to find the dimensions of commercial tarps. Thanks for any comments.
    I've been trying to figure out what size I want for my next tarp too. (Not sure if it'll be DIY or OES yet.) I've found that it's helpful to cut a sheet of paper to scale (say 1"=1') and then fold it up with different pitches, doors, etc.

    I'm an engineer (so I ain't skerd of the maths), but the origami model makes it easy to quickly play around with different locations for tie outs or even center pull outs. It might also help you find places where you can shave some weight. Good luck.

    P.S. This tarp is 10'x11'.

  9. #9
    Senior Member genegene's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone for the quick response...

    That's a bummer that I cant get a 12ft wide sheet. Oh well, I guess I need to deal with seams.

    For the Catenary Cuts, is there a equation to get them done correctly?
    To quote MAD777
    If we're going to be hammock ambassadors, we need to fly a tight tarp.
    I am making a larger tarp then most that I have seen but the Chrysalis is a wider and longer Hammock then most. I also am working on some other mods that I would like to have as well.

    Does anyone have some Pics of how there seams are sewed together on the ridgeline. I'm not all that happy with what I have used and done on mine and that is one of the things that I am going to change on tarp #2. The one I am making now is what I am calling my prototype and I am learning from my mistakes on this one so I can make a much better one next time.

    P.S. I think I'm hooked on Hammocking now....

  10. #10
    Senior Member JCINMA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by genegene View Post
    For the Catenary Cuts, is there a equation to get them done correctly?
    Here ya go!

    Good luck!
    Be like Bob

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