you're are gonna positively need to anchor a block of something between the crete and the d/w. attached firmly to the concrete.
can you patch/repair drywall?
if it were me, id cut a small square ~3"x3" shee trock. Id then drill and securely sink a redhead through a 3"x3"x3"x0.25" L Bracket cut from a piece of angle iron (im sure there is probably a better bracket out there but haven't checked).
Drill 3/8" holes to accommodate the redhead anchor and the shackle pin at attachment point. Id make the attachment point at least 2" from wall-side corner to clear sheet rock. Then, patch the hole so just the tab is sticking out of the wall which can be painted to match.
Id then either attach hammock suspension to bracket with a shackle:
or if I felt so inclined, smooth/bevel attachment hole and use a continuous loop lark's headed to bracket. Im pretty sure amsteel would be up to the task
This design, I feel, would prove both unobtrusive as well as solid without doing damge to the sheet rock over time.
If anyone sees any faults here please step in.
...in it for pics.
How about hanging from floor-to-ceiling poles affixed real close to the sheetrock?
- MacEntyre
"We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately." - Ben Franklin
www.MollyMacGear.com
Here's a shot of the facade wall studs in front of the concrete.
And here's a shot in one part of that bedroom where you can see the purlins.
how about drilling all the way thru the wall and installing a large eye bolt?
diyin to hang
If the walls are still without sheetrock, I'd install brackets now right to the drywall then just cut access to the bracket post-finishing.
Rick
Look up before you hook up!!
Originally Posted by body942
Me big. Me like hammockgear burrow. Long. Problems no. People good.
sorry, i thought you where already "rocked in".
build some stacked plywood blocks that are flush with the studs. use a vapor barrier between the crete and the ply. use tap-cons counter sunk into the ply. ( stacked plywood will make a more stable material to screw your anchors into when the time comes)
the principle is to bring the surface in to meet the surface of the back of your drywall.
after you have attached the anchor blocks make yourself a detailed drawing w/measurements so you can find them later.
interior walls. stack 3 or 4 wood studs together and shoot'em or screw'em together. anchor them well into the sub floor, right thru thr bottom steel stud track. you might have to cut a short piece of wood stud and lay it on top of the purlin and shoot or screw down from the top, thru the purlin and into the top of the wood stud.
double check to see that the wood studs are flush with the steel studs on the side of the wall you intend to hang.
When I was a kid working construction building a mall, I was given a task to make tabs for bolting architectural concrete slabs to one another. I cut plates out of 3/4" steel and blew 1" holes in them, all with an acetylene torch. Then I used a Hilti hammer drill to make 1" holes in the concrete. All was assembled with 1" anchor bolts about 6" long.
You have everything you need to do something similar, except the Hilti hammer drill, which you can rent, and the anchor bolts, which you can buy.
- MacEntyre
"We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately." - Ben Franklin
www.MollyMacGear.com
Sorry for the confusion.
The sheetrock is already up. Those pictures above are from several months ago.
Here are some more recent pics of that bedroom:
That orange-ish wall doesn't tie in at the ceiling. And so I think I'd like to tie into a purlin on that end. Then anchor on the concrete wall next to that window (pictured above).
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