DIY No Zipper Attached Bugnet

[exdiver]

I have nearly finished my hangnout style no-zipper/attached-bugnet. I used organza instead of noseeum. In office testing says it will work nicely.
Added two things to mine. Attached a tab for the ridgeline to support the center section of the "roof", and added a pocket under each side of the roof at this same point to hold items that previously would have gone in a ridgeline organizer which will now not be used.
When I lay in the hammock the shock-corded netting is just below the roof material and has a very small separation. I added 3 inches to the measurement from the hammock body to the ridgeline as per hangnout's thought that he would add some to a next version.

Anyone else working on this idea?

[Pipsissewa]

THANKS FOR SAVING ME LOTS OF TIME, Redoleary!! I was going to make a model too. I think you need a second shock cord along the end of the overflap. A shock cord (with a little tension on it from each end of the hammock) will draw the flap straight and flat back over the "long side". The pillowcase envelope seams at each end will keep it down over the long side. Does that make sense? That's what I figure anyway. As you say, you MIGHT be able to enter from both sides that way too, if you can draw the flap OVER the ridge line and down far enough to get in. I guess that means that the long side AND the flap have to be longer than the ridge line. This is explained in Hanginout's original description.

[Redoleary]

To be honest I didn't really know what to do with the main shock cord to actually make it work as advertised. But I've not taken the time to go back through the thread and find the answer. I think I understand what you're saying with a shock cord from the ends of the overflap to the hammock suspension, but, wouldn't that just pull the flap up rather than possibly stretching the bungee? I was thinking if the overflap was sewn down the side then that would keep it where it belongs?? More like an old school sandwich bag maybe. I may have to work on my model or make another and see if I can work some of these mysteries out

[hangnout]

I have nearly finished my hangnout style no-zipper/attached-bugnet. I used organza instead of noseeum. In office testing says it will work nicely.
Added two things to mine. Attached a tab for the ridgeline to support the center section of the "roof", and added a pocket under each side of the roof at this same point to hold items that previously would have gone in a ridgeline organizer which will now not be used.
When I lay in the hammock the shock-corded netting is just below the roof material and has a very small separation. I added 3 inches to the measurement from the hammock body to the ridgeline as per hangnout's thought that he would add some to a next version.

Anyone else working on this idea?

An actual attached bugnet I like the pocket idea in the roof

[Pipsissewa]

You're right Red. I meant to say that the second shock cord would be attached down at the bottom of the "envelope" seam--so...what? 8-12 inches below the suspension line? Not TO the suspension line. I just think you need a little tensioned shock cord at the bottom of that overflap to keep it straight and flat against the long side. I wish I could draw a diagram like RJ and Dejoha do... . Your analogy to an old-fashioned sandwich bag is right on!

[matto]

You're right Red. I meant to say that the second shock cord would be attached down at the bottom of the "envelope" seam--so...what? 8-12 inches below the suspension line? Not TO the suspension line. I just think you need a little tensioned shock cord at the bottom of that overflap to keep it straight and flat against the long side.

Pips, sorry if this is a dumb question or has been answered up-thread, but what keeps the second shock cord tensioned if it's attached down below the suspension? I feel like I'm missing something.

[Pipsissewa]

Oh yeah. That's a good point, Matto. Hmm...I guess I was thinking there wouldn't be very much tension on it. Just enough to keep it flat. It may be unworkable. Maybe Redoleary's model will work just fine with just the overflap sewn down on both sides to the longer side. Just trying to avoid (1) a gap when you're in the hammock and (2) using weights to hold the flap down.

[chickenwing]

I really wish I had seen this thread before I started making my latest hammock. Now I have to determine how to retrofit this into a double layer with the edges already sewn together.

[rjcress]

I really wish I had seen this thread before I started making my latest hammock. Now I have to determine how to retrofit this into a double layer with the edges already sewn together.

FWIW, that is how I do all of mine.
I finish the hammock itself, dial in the ridgeline length, make sure I'm happy with the whipping... then I add the bug net.
No biggie, just add a seam where the bug net attaches to the hammock sides. You can cover it up with grosgrain or bias tape, or leave it au-natural.

[wildernessquest1]

I intended to copy Hangnout's original design but due to my "fly by the seat of my pants" DIY approach I had to make some modifications. I didn't want to whip and hang my DIY hammock in order to measure how deep to cut the bug net prior to sewing so I guessed..... Not the best idea. So each side has 34" bug net with shock cord. I found that this was way to much so I tried to drap both sides over the top of the ridge line. I added a couple of tie outs 24" down from the whipping in order to hold one side from flipping back over the RL. With this in place while I'm in the hammock I can easily pull the non-tied down side over the RL (below the tied down side) and it creates a really good seal....really only takes a second or two. After experimenting I really only need to do this in the middle as the sides are already overlapped and sealed because of the tie down. I originally wanted a double exit bug net so I did install the tiedowns on both sides so I can decide in the field which side is the best access and easily change it without flipping the hammock. I'm going to give it a try for my BWCA trip next month but with back yard testing it seems to work well.

Here's a short video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Tl_dxb8MwI