JRB Tri-Glides

[rasputen]

These little doodads sure have caused a big ruckus! Maybe this should be the first Hammock Video Tutorial? Webbing around tree and back to webbing, adjust... I think this is the answer. When I get mine maybe I can post pics of the setup..

[Peter_pan]

OK.... Although I do not understand the confusion on such a simple device I'll try to add some additional clarification for the benefit of readers who have not reviewed the use instructions either on the JRB Web site or on actual JRB Tri-Glide packaging.

First, as stated, the JRB Tri-glides are intended for use on hammocks that are using 1 inch webbing for suspension ... This means hammocks that have the webbing attached to the hammock as the standing end ... Simply install the JRB Tri-Glide on the webbing, position it at the point you would otherwise form a knot/wrapping ... take the running end around the tree and back though the JRB Tri-Glide ... Done ... If adjustment is necessary, do so as any standard tri-glide functions.

As to form and finish of the JRB Tri-Glide, by design, it is not anodized and the edges of the machining have been deburred. Anodizing would add weight, immeasurable but it does, and cost. But most importantly anodizing would reduce the coefficient of friction of the device. Likewise it is not beveled, as beveling would significantly reduce the coefficient of friction of the device in use. It is important to realize that tri-glides function as readily movable strap adjusters based on friction lock when put under load ... the four 90º angles that the double webbing passes though lock the webbing when under load. Reducing the coefficient of friction by anodizing and beveling will create more wear on webbing if, and as, it allows slippage (slippage over the edges and not the edges themselves is what caused NCPatrick’s strap wear, though this occurred because of improper use)... further, devices that allow slippage like some of the double rings etc then require a back up jam or slip knot, which the JRB Tri-Glide does not need.

Although not stated as a marketing point, the JRB decision to pursue the tri-glide approach is one that specifically negates the separation of original webbing attachment to the hammock. It likewise negates the insertion of some spider line (or other high tech small diameter, light weight, high rated line). It also negates the need for the double descender rings, single ring and girth hitch, steel rings or D-rings and frequent jam knot, and/or steel cinch buckle…. Lastly it negates the carabineer on the tree end. Thus a simple, no modification, no additional hardware, no knot, secure hanging approach that has an alternative weight savings over the other approaches of from 2-5 oz.

As a point ... The JRB Tri-Glides can actually be employed with zero weight penalties over even a straight webbing suspension. Commonly, these are 10 foot in length. Both the Speer wrap and the Hennessy lashing take between 24-30 inches to make … Thus use of the JRB Tri-Glide will provide equivalent suspension for 2 feet less webbing. And, our measurements of polyester webbing found this saved 14 grams of webbing while employing a 13 gram JRB Tri-Glide.

Hope this additional information clarifies the use, design goals and achievements of the JRB Tri-Glides.

Pan

[rasputen]

Got um in the mail this afternoon. Here are a couple of quick pics of them in action with my Speer Hammock.. They hold great and are very easy to use and adjust. Enjoy...

[cgul1]

Looks good
Where's the snow?
I might go around the tree again, but it doesn't look necessary, looks like it will have to be the weekend
thanks for the pix

[NCPatrick]

OK.... Although I do not understand the confusion on such a simple device I'll try to add some additional clarification for the benefit of readers who have not reviewed the use instructions either on the JRB Web site or on actual JRB Tri-Glide packaging.

<snip>Reducing the coefficient of friction by anodizing and beveling will create more wear on webbing if, and as, it allows slippage (slippage over the edges and not the edges themselves is what caused NCPatrick’s strap wear, though this occurred because of improper use)... further, devices that allow slippage like some of the double rings etc then require a back up jam or slip knot, which the JRB Tri-Glide does not need.<snip>

Pan

Ok, the improper use was freely admitted on my part .

On the other hand, for those of us using the spyderline to attach the hammock to cinch or ring buckles and then attaching that to a strap, it takes some thought.

I took my strap, and turned it around so the loop that was previously holding the 'biner at the end was instead close to the hammock, I ran my spyderline as a larkshead through the loop. Then took the open end of the strap, put the triglide on it, and used as directed. I've now gotten rid of the cinch buckle AND the 'biner.

Time will tell how long my strap loop will last with the pressure of the 2.8 Spyderline in it, but it looks like it'll be fine. Just a thought.

[tomsawyer222]

Well you could make something like the tri glide for regular rope... but you just have a biner on the end of your rope and something that slides along the rope its self that has a catch ring

[rasputen]

Looks good
Where's the snow?
I might go around the tree again, but it doesn't look necessary, looks like it will have to be the weekend
thanks for the pix

This is Tennessee! Snow here today and gone tomorrow? My kids are sick and missed what little snow we recieved yesterday?


The hammock set up was temporary and for pic purposes only. I did lay in it to test slippage(210lbs). There wasen't any. They function exactly as I imagined and I look forward to using them on my next trip.

[Peter_pan]

Ok, the improper use was freely admitted on my part .

On the other hand, for those of us using the spyderline to attach the hammock to cinch or ring buckles and then attaching that to a strap, it takes some thought.

I took my strap, and turned it around so the loop that was previously holding the 'biner at the end was instead close to the hammock, I ran my spyderline as a larkshead through the loop. Then took the open end of the strap, put the triglide on it, and used as directed. I've now gotten rid of the cinch buckle AND the 'biner.

Time will tell how long my strap loop will last with the pressure of the 2.8 Spyderline in it, but it looks like it'll be fine. Just a thought.

NCPatrick

Sounds like you cut 5-6 oz out by removing the 2 cinch buckles and 2 biners...not bad eh? ( Hi Turk, if you are reading).

BTW, you can eliminate the spyder line too if your loop is small enough to cinch up inboard of the hammock knot.... just a thought...

Pan

[nickelanddime]

actually anodizing exagerates surface imperfections making it rougher, to get a smooth slick part it has to start out either highly polished or undergo electrochemical "brightening". My suggestion of anodizing was on the basis that aluminum naturally oxidizes black and when handled those oxides easily sweat off even if you don't have deet or r-326 on your hands. As far as cost, a professional batch loading shop runs about $50 a batch for standard clear coat breaking down to $.5 a part. If milled out even in small run quantities that makes it about $4-6 a pair, if water jetted $2-4. I'm not familiar with packaging costs but I assume in either case with standard 100% mark up your price wouldn't change from $12.
The effects of pressure risers whether they are sharp edges or have a .03 radius could be debated for quite awhile since they are acting on a material in a plastic state, but you could look the hardware thread and see that people are getting away with chamfers absurdly seeming to push in excess of .1
I offered the anodizing and chamfering solely because I saw an arena that still didn't have quite what I was looking for and wanted other people to know that their options aren't so limited, nothing against JRB, you guys are great.

[NCPatrick]

NCPatrick

Sounds like you cut 5-6 oz out by removing the 2 cinch buckles and 2 biners...not bad eh? ( Hi Turk, if you are reading).

BTW, you can eliminate the spyder line too if your loop is small enough to cinch up inboard of the hammock knot.... just a thought...

Pan

I did cut about 3.2 oz out this way. The 'biner and cinch buckle together weighed exactly 2 oz (x 2!). Then add back in the .8 oz (combined weight) of the triglides. Did I add that correctly?

I'll have to take a look at getting rid of the spyderline. I'm not in any hurry to do so yet. Old habits die hard.

Here are some pictures, fwiw.