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Thread: JRB Tri-Glides

  1. #21
    Senior Member TiredFeet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCPatrick View Post
    ....

    ON the bright side, one triglide weighed in at .4 oz, where one cinch buckle was 1 oz. So quite a savings in weight there.
    Not if it's only added weight

  2. #22
    Senior Member NCPatrick's Avatar
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    Just wanted to try them out. The weight savings would have been a by-product. So -- Oh well! I should have followed the directions.
    Last edited by NCPatrick; 02-27-2008 at 21:24.


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  3. #23
    Senior Member angrysparrow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCPatrick View Post
    I'm still trying to find a way to use them in my system. Maybe I could replace my 'biner, but otherwise don't know. I have my hammock tied with larkshead to spyderline tied with a larkshead to my cinch buckle, and the straps strung through the buckle with a 'biner on the end. If you can enlighten me as to how you would use these triglides in this system, I'm all ears.
    For use in the way that you're talking about, it seems to me that there is a piece missing from the JRB Tri-Glides. Something like this but in an appropriate size. That would allow you to tie your Spyderline to the 'outer ring' part, and connect the webbing to the Tri-Glide part for adjustment. Then, the Tri-Glide is turned sideways and slipped through the 'outer ring', where it will then hold fast.

    I can envision it, but I don't know if the description is clear.

    This would add weight, though. Possibly even enough to obviate the advantage.
    Last edited by angrysparrow; 02-27-2008 at 21:32.
    “I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt.” - Cormac McCarthy

  4. #24
    Senior Member GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCPatrick View Post
    I got mine today and tried to set up using one of them the way I use my cinch buckle or rings. I think it was a mistake to use them in that manner... It's better to follow the directions on the package. I got a lot of slippage and a good bit of abrasion on my straps in the process. (Pictures may follow). The corners of the triglides are pretty sharp, and I would bet that future ones might be champhered (is that a word? or bevelled, if you prefer). The slippage was similar to what I got with ring buckles unsecured with the half hitch, but since the corners were sharp, it abraded my strap.

    At this point, I would read the directions carefully and see if you can use them in the intended way only.

    Repeat, these did not work for me as a replacement of the cinch buckle.

    I'm still trying to find a way to use them in my system. Maybe I could replace my 'biner, but otherwise don't know. I have my hammock tied with larkshead to spyderline tied with a larkshead to my cinch buckle, and the straps strung through the buckle with a 'biner on the end. If you can enlighten me as to how you would use these triglides in this system, I'm all ears.

    Thanks.

    ON the bright side, one triglide weighed in at .4 oz, where one cinch buckle was 1 oz. So quite a savings in weight there.
    I'm unclear on the recommended use. My confusion might be cleared up by the answer to one question. When you thread the standing end of the webbing through the triglide to finish the connection, is the standing end pulled through the triglide from the tree side to the hammock side, or vice versa?

    thanks
    Grizz

  5. #25
    Senior Member NCPatrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    I'm unclear on the recommended use. My confusion might be cleared up by the answer to one question. When you thread the standing end of the webbing through the triglide to finish the connection, is the standing end pulled through the triglide from the tree side to the hammock side, or vice versa?

    thanks
    Grizz
    First, thread the triglide onto your strap, then run the end of the strap around the tree and then feed the strap back through the triglide. That's how I interpreted the instructions.


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  6. #26
    Senior Member headchange4u's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCPatrick View Post

    .....

    ON the bright side, one triglide weighed in at .4 oz, where one cinch buckle was 1 oz. So quite a savings in weight there.

    If you use the Triglides the way they are supposed to be used, wouldn't it also eliminate the use of biners in the suspension system?

    I will probably pick up a set of these when the 8x8 Tarp Tents become available. I do wish that the edges were beveled to reduce wear and tear on webbing.
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  7. #27
    Senior Member NCPatrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by headchange4u View Post
    If you use the Triglides the way they are supposed to be used, wouldn't it also eliminate the use of biners in the suspension system?

    I will probably pick up a set of these when the 8x8 Tarp Tents become available. I do wish that the edges were beveled to reduce wear and tear on webbing.
    Yes, that is true, except I still like the ease of the 'biners. I suppose you'd have 2 points of adjustment (which is good, I suppose) if you did the triglides AND the cinch buckles.


    "Civilization is the limitless multiplication of unnecessary necessities."
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    “I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses put in order.”
    - John Burroughs

  8. #28
    Senior Member GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCPatrick View Post
    First, thread the triglide onto your strap, then run the end of the strap around the tree and then feed the strap back through the triglide. That's how I interpreted the instructions.
    That was the maximum likelihood estimator.

    If the webbing loops around the tree once, then there isn't much in the configuration to keep the webbing positioned at the selected spot on the tree. Point of reference--if at all possible I cause my webbing to be cinched up on the tree trunk to keep it from slipping. If the webbing loops around the tree more than once to hold it in place, then if you were to make a relatively small adjustment you are changing the length on only one of the two sections of the webbing that go from glider to tree, and will need to fuss with the strap's complete circuit around the tree to adjust the lengths to be equal (you'll have to do the same fussing if it goes around only once, but that should be a little easier).

    So you can finesse this issue---if indeed it is an issue---by using straps and a biner as you have before, and run the strap through triglide to biner and back to triglide. Replaces the weight of 1 oz cinch buckle with 0.4 oz triglide. But that's what you tried and it chewed up your webbing?

    Grizz

  9. #29
    Senior Member TiredFeet's Avatar
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    I don't understand the purpose of the JRB Tri-Glide.

    Is it supposed to keep the webbing cinched to the tree?? There is no means that I can see from the pictures to attach the hammock suspension to the Tri-Glide. Only the webbing can be attached to the Tri-Glide.

    From the web site instructions:
    Simply thread the hammock suspension strap thru a JRB tri-glide, wrap the web strap around the selected tree and back thru the JRB tri-glide. Repeat on the other end of the hammock. Done. Adjust, if needed. To remove, simply unthread the running end of the suspension webbing. The JRB tri-glide stays in place on the web strap, ready for next use.
    It sounds as if the Tri-Glide doesn't "replace" anything. It merely serves to keep the webbing cinched tight against the tree so that it doesn't slide down under the influence of gravity.

    From the pictures, it looks as if the webbing would not fit through the Tri-Glide if there are loops on the ends, at least not with the regular 1" webbing I have from Strapworks (that stuff is pretty thick). The 1" Strapworks seatbelt webbing might fit with end loops. It would be more possible with the 1.5" seatbelt webbing except for the width.

    So, if I'm picturing this right, you have webbing, no end loops, held on the tree with the Tri-Glide. You then have the problem of attaching the webbing to the hammock suspension, no end loop to accomplish this end. Even if there are end loops and they fit through the Tri-Glide, you then have to use the end loop for attaching the hammock suspension.

    Or maybe the hammock suspension is supposed to be tied to the loop formed by the webbing around the tree.

    If the Tri-Glide simply keeps the webbing cinched tight against the tree, then in my experience it simply replaces the SMC descending rings that I use on the tree hugger end loops. Same weight. At least with the SMC rings I have a means of then attaching the suspension to the rings and I have a known load bearing rating for the rings.

    As I re-read the above, it occurred to me that I'm approaching this from the perspective of one that uses tree huggers and spectra/dyneema line for the hammock suspension to the tree huggers. If instead I look at it from the perspective of one that uses ONLY webbing, no rope, then I think I can understand what the Tri-Glides do. Webbing from hammock to and through Tri-Glide, then around tree, back to Tri-Glide, through Tri-Glide. Adjust. No end loops, none needed. The entire hammock suspension is composed only of webbing.

    That sounds reasonable then.

    But then I would be back to the problem of all that weight and bulk in using only webbing in the hammock suspension. I left that behind months ago and have no inclination to go back there, ever again. That's one reason I shifted to the 1.5" seat belt webbing as tree huggers - reduces bulk considerably.

  10. #30
    Senior Member angrysparrow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiredFeet View Post
    If instead I look at it from the perspective of one that uses ONLY webbing, no rope, then I think I can understand what the Tri-Glides do. Webbing from hammock to and through Tri-Glide, then around tree, back to Tri-Glide, through Tri-Glide. Adjust. No end loops, none needed. The entire hammock suspension is composed only of webbing.
    That is the purpose for the Tri-Glides, as I understand their use to be. JRB uses a single ring on the end of their BMBH suspension, with a length of webbing sewn to that ring and extending out to be tied to the supports. For use with that kind of setup, the Tri-Glides are a good solution. But, for those of us that choose alternate methods, the Tri-Glides are not particularly useful.
    “I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt.” - Cormac McCarthy

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