Got me a sewing machine

**aboyd** · 05-03-2011, 09:53

Well, I have been borrowing my moms machine whenever I needed to sew something, and it really isn't that often that I need to do it, but is a hastle to have to need it and not have it. So, the other night my dad drops by and brings in an old Modernage Precision sewing machine. It needs a little clean up, but seems to run fine. Might need a new belt, but that is easy. Below is a pic of one like it, not mine, but it looks just like it. I am excited...and plan to be making snake skins real soon...

**hiker_DC** · 05-03-2011, 12:53

I have an old ?Singer? from the 40's. Cast iron and about 50 pounds. A man's machine.

**5MinuteMajor** · 05-03-2011, 13:17

I got a 1969 Sears Kenmore 1503 at a garage sale yesterday for free. Japanese made, and it's about 40lbs too. Heavy cast-iron base. Needs to be looked at though, as the motor sparked a little when it was turned on and running.

**QChan** · 05-03-2011, 15:52

Awesome, we used to have one just like that but a weird green when I was little. No one ever used it.

To be honest, until I was like 10, I just thought it was a box...

So how does that baby sew?

**aboyd** · 05-04-2011, 05:50

Originally Posted by QChan

So how does that baby sew?

Not sure yet, been a busy week so far

. I am hoping to get some time to clean it up and play with it tomorrow and maybe sew something this wekend.

**Yakfoot** · 05-04-2011, 13:57

Most of these old machines need some lubrication. They may not have seen any in decades and the increased friction of a dry machine really loads the motor. On the older Singers the holes in the top of the machine are oil points, but don't squirt it in, only a drop or two. There will probably be a plate in the front which you can remove to reach the mechanical parts above the needle. Generally any metal to metal moving parts need a tad of oil and gears need a little grease. There will also be a plate on the bottom, often the entire bottom, which needs to be removed to reach important lube points there.

**aboyd** · 05-04-2011, 14:00

Originally Posted by Yakfoot

Most of these old machines need some lubrication. They may not have seen any in decades and the increased friction of a dry machine really loads the motor. On the older Singers the holes in the top of the machine are oil points, but don't squirt it in, only a drop or two. There will probably be a plate in the front which you can remove to reach the mechanical parts above the needle. Generally any metal to metal moving parts need a tad of oil and gears need a little grease. There will also be a plate on the bottom, often the entire bottom, which needs to be removed to reach important lube points there.

Thanks for the tips, I gave it a trial run today and made a pretty sorry excuse for snake skins, but that was not a fault of the machine. I will clean it up and oil it and seems like it is gonna be just fine.

**Yakfoot** · 05-04-2011, 14:10

One other thing. When I brought in one of these older machines to a mechanic at a service center for inspection after I gave it a lube he gave me a tip about the motors. He said to remove the belt so there was no load on the motor then floor it. Run it wide open as fast as it will go. He said it often improves performance.

**Ramblinrev** · 05-04-2011, 16:20

Under no circumstances _ever_ use 3-1 oil in a sewing machine. What you want is a light weight machine oil. Get it from a sewing center. It is reasonable in price and the amount you can get will last quite a while. A pin point oiler is a good investment to keep from over oiling. Too much oil is as bad as not enough. It attracts dust, lint and other evil stuff. Then that stuff can harden and you have a real mess on your hands. Very light touch. A small drop... not a big one.

**aboyd** · 05-04-2011, 16:38

Thanks again for the tips guys, I really have not been making stuff enough to feel I needed a machine, but it was free, so why not. I think I need to replace the pedal, it has no variable speed, it's either off....or wide open. I opened the pedal and see where the arm that makes the contacts as you press the pedal down drops away from the contact points until it reaches the last one, then makes contact again. Explains the off or wide open scenario. What could I expect to pay for a replacement pedal, and do they all work about the same?