You "could" rip the 2x4s out but have you?

**Mountain Gout** · 05-16-2011, 11:42

I got lucky, the room I hang in is 15ft. corner to corner... I shot lags into both corner studs at each side and used seat belt material sandwiched in between aluminum plates... Works great!!

**keg** · 05-16-2011, 17:30

Originally Posted by Catavarie

Now I would think concrete walls to be ideal. Eye bolts drilled into the wall with concrete wedge anchors I would think to certainly hold a hammocker of nearly any size.

Hammer Drill, tapcon screws http://www.concretescrews.com/ and something like this http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/in...jrs/R-I5415259 works well enough for me. 220+ pounds on a bad day.

It is over my bed because of space but that extra piece of mind ain't bad.

**Kasuko** · 05-16-2011, 17:43

This thread contains a lot of what I was talking about, a ton of people saying they wouldn't do it (but never actually had a bad result, save "signs") and then people who actually do it with out problems.

Granted it's enough to make me worry. So new plan! Put a hammock stand under a couch so that the hammock hangs above the ground but doesn't take up more room that the sofa couch that was already going to be there!

**Detail Man** · 05-16-2011, 17:56

Originally Posted by Ramblinrev

I think it is safe to say most studs a "toe-nailed" to the top and bottom plates.

This is sometimes the case, but it's a lot slower to construct a wall this way, and this technique is generally used in remodel situations where a wall cannot be fully assembled on the floor then raised into place. In new construction and in remodel situations that allow, the wall is assembled on the floor, nailing thru the top/bottom plates into the end of the stud. After the drywall is on, which does have some structural properties and ties the wall together, it would take more force than even big guys weigh to pull out stud out of a finished wall.

The key is knowing what kind of material (wood or masonry) one is anchoring into and using the appropriate fastener. Distributing the load among several points greatly reduces what any one anchor is required to hold. Be very careful in walls that have plumbing in them, and when drilling/anchoring into walls verticaly above electrical outlets as the cable may be achored to that stud.

If you pay attention to what you're doing, use enough of the appropriate fastener, there's no reason why anyone couldn't hang from the walls of there home. If in doubt, ask a knowledgable friend to help you.

**Ramblinrev** · 05-16-2011, 18:14

Originally Posted by Detail Man

In new construction and in remodel situations that allow, the wall is assembled on the floor, nailing thru the top/bottom plates into the end of the stud.

That's interesting because a lot of the new construction I've seen around here looks to be toe-nailed . It may depend on the builder and the locale. Personally I would nail through, but I swear I've seen the walls built flat with construction air nailer toe nails and raised up and nailed in place through the bottom plate to the sill plate. Makes me nervous just looking at them go up.

**Ramblinrev** · 05-16-2011, 18:22

Originally Posted by Kasuko

(but never actually had a bad result, save "signs")

Ummm... I must say that "signs" are enough for me to stop doing something rather than continuing to find out where the point of failure is. Especially if that would mean having structural damage done to my house. But maybe that's just me. And yes... as I said before I have seen damage occur.

**Gary_R** · 05-16-2011, 18:57

Originally Posted by Ramblinrev

Solid concrete _might_ strong enough depending on the specs of the concrete. (Good luck finding that out without the original plans.) But under no circumstances would I trust concrete block. You can break concrete block relatively easily.

I've seen hand railings break out of concrete even when properly anchored. I would not trust anything that resembled glued together sand.

Hand railing are generally attached somewhat shallow into concrete.
Which makes a large difference. (they dont need to hold hundreds of pounds)
If you drill a proper hole into a concrete wall and put a nice anchor into it, there is no reason it should fail..

**DiscoveryDiver** · 05-16-2011, 19:16

For those who do occasional drilling into walls, a stud sensor is a nice item to have. I got this one, which senses and indicates electrical (but not plumbing?) as well. It has a visual indicator that tells you where the stud edges begin and end...handy for me since I have both 4x4 and 2x4s in my walls. The one I have is also also equipped with an auto-leveling laser:
http://www.blackanddecker.com/power-tools/BDL190S.aspx
$60 full retail (can naturally be had cheaper) and a lot of insurance for the money...plus it has a laser

Great for hanging shelves or any project that requires multiple holes along a level line.

There is also a more modestly-priced unit w/o lazer:
http://www.blackanddecker.com/power-tools/SF100.aspx
This one is only 15$, but I know nothing of it's operation...

**JohnSawyer** · 05-16-2011, 19:44

Instead of hanging to the walls, I tied my hammock into the top plate, diagonally across the room, about 2' from the corners. The holes were pre-drilled about 1/2 down from the edge of the ceiling, and up at a slight angle...

Never had an issue with anything flexing...

John

**Kasuko** · 05-17-2011, 07:14

Originally Posted by JohnSawyer

Instead of hanging to the walls, I tied my hammock into the top plate, diagonally across the room, about 2' from the corners. The holes were pre-drilled about 1/2 down from the edge of the ceiling, and up at a slight angle...

Never had an issue with anything flexing...

John

What's a top plate for those of us who are construction illiterate?