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  1. #11
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Just a thought from a guy who absolutely detests yard work. Have you considered a fairly sizable steel pipe (3" maybe) set into a socket in the ground. The benefit is that you could pull it up to mow as the socket would be flush with the ground.

    In fact my stand is made of 4x4 lumber and it functions very well. But if I was going to sink it... I would want it removable. Just my $.02
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

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  2. #12
    gunner76's Avatar
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    Be carefull. I had 2 4x4 post break last year while hanging. They were buried 4 feet deep in concrete. I changed over to 7" diameter pier pilings (think telephone poles)
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    I am still 18 but with 52 years of experience !

  3. #13
    Senior Member oldgringo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gunner76 View Post
    Be carefull. I had 2 4x4 post break last year while hanging. They were buried 4 feet deep in concrete. I changed over to 7" diameter pier pilings (think telephone poles)
    Exactly. I tossed a 5x5 off of a truck a few years ago, and watched in disbelief as it snapped in two. This is why I favor the 2x4 or 2x6 sandwich approach. I learned this, btw, from a builder of pole barns.
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  4. #14
    Senior Member Kallorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldgringo View Post
    Exactly. I tossed a 5x5 off of a truck a few years ago, and watched in disbelief as it snapped in two. This is why I favor the 2x4 or 2x6 sandwich approach. I learned this, btw, from a builder of pole barns.
    I'll second that as I have built my share of pole barns working for a local contractor. If you want to use a 4x4 you'll want a brace on the hammock side. If have a hammock hanging off a free standing pole it's the same as pulling with +/- 700lbs of force on the end of a flexible 6' lever. I've been the force on top of 30' 6x12, the flex is pretty incredible. A hefty piece of steel is probably the way to go, or laminated 2x4s. With the latter you'll want the seams between the boards facing the hammock.

  5. #15
    Senior Member TadTheTinker's Avatar
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    Okay, Long post coming butt it should get you set.

    Go to a good plumbing supply store. Not Lowe's, plumbing supply.
    Find two pieces of pipe where one fits rather well inside of the other. (Not too tight, not too loose.) Pieces should be in the 2" or larger range.
    Purchase about 3 1/2' of the larger diameter pipe and 10' - 12' of the smaller diameter pipe. (If possible, get the longer piece of pipe out of Schedule 80 pipe instead of 40. Walls are thicker so pipe is stronger.)

    Now run by Lowe's and purchase an 8" diameter SoloTube and a couple bags of sackrete. The tube will be 4' long.

    Measure from your tree about 15 feet away. Dig a hole that will hold your solotube. Top of tube should be flush with ground.

    Place Solotube in ground, Add about 6" of concrete to the bottom of the tube. Put a couple of pieces of tape over the end of the short section of pipe. Place this in the center of the tube, resting on top of the concrete. Fill the tube to the top with concrete while someone holds the short pipe in place.

    Once this is done, let sit for a couple of days so the concrete can cure. This whole thing should be flush with the ground or maybe stick up an inch at most.

    Once it has cured well. Take the longer pipe and drop it into the hole. Hang your hammock by wrapping the strap, rope, whatever around the pipe. Get it looking pretty good. Mark this location and another spot about 6 inches higher. Drill holes through your pole and add eye bolts.

    Hang any time you want. When the yard needs mowed or guests are coming over for a Bar B Que, pull the pole up and lay it beside the house, shed, fence. Good to go.

    This is the long explanation of Rev's idea with details and hints so it works out well for you. Let us know what you do and show some picks.
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  6. #16
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by TadTheTinker View Post
    ...Top of tube should be flush with ground...
    The hole you dug for the tube is the form and there is no need for the additional tube lining the hole.

    I would place the short socket pipe in the hole before any concrete. That will allow any water that gets in, to drain instead of collecting.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Jcavenagh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    The hole you dug for the tube is the form and there is no need for the additional tube lining the hole.

    I would place the short socket pipe in the hole before any concrete. That will allow any water that gets in, to drain instead of collecting.
    Yes...and even just an inch or two of gravel at the bottom will promote drainage. Any water that collects in a sealed pipe in Kankakee will produce the dreaded skeeter!

  8. #18
    Senior Member jerseydave's Avatar
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    Plant another tree
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  9. #19
    Senior Member flatline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerseydave View Post
    Plant another tree
    best solution yet!

  10. #20
    Senior Member lmoseley7's Avatar
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    Eye bolt

    I recently built a stand made with 4x4s and used eye bolts to attach the suspension. One thing i noticed was I needed a toggle or some other method to attach the adjustable loop to the eye. I picked up some chain repair links at harbor freight and they should work nice. These are the kind with one and a half loops not the kind with the screw connection. $2 for two links was nice plus they are coated so they shouldn't rust.

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