It's worth noting that it's possible to go smaller than I did with this stand. I built one for use in a canvas wall tent that measures 26"x100", and it easily accommodates my Speer hammock.
When I looked at this my trailer hitch came to mind to make joints for diss-assembly. the hitch pins can hold joints together as well as anchor points, also if making slip joints midway up and across for ease of storage and transport, all can fit in a duffel bag.
I've been looking for a durable stand with a small footprint. Weasel (youngest son, forum member) has talked about hanging permanently but his room is pretty small. The turtledog stands we made just take up too much room, and there's a lot of wasted space because of the pyramid shapes of the tripods. We couldn't get enough ridgeline for him to get a comfy lay in.
Looked at this thread when Oldgringo linked it for someone else. I don't have any welding equipment (or skills)...but I DO have friends. Sent the link to a friend of mine who is much more capable at this stuff...he's making plans for a non-welded version for me this weekend.
This should work great in the son's room. Makes full use of the length of the room, can be pushed up close to the far wall. It will be fully capable of being broke down, and very adjustable in height and length. Will post what he comes up with.
Love this. I think the round top tube - two peice design modification would make it pretty versitile too.
Just an out of shape middle aged guy who loves doing outdoor things with his great kids...
Gonna bump this thread cause its pretty close to what I want to build. I am a fat effer at 285 so wood and lag bolts in wood dont thrill me and I also find steel can be cheaper more often than one might think. Looked into the black pipe, screw together type but that gets a little spendy at Lowes-Depot. Unthreaded pipe by the length is a lot cheaper but I really dont have a practical way to thread it. Why not square tube I thought.
I would think that long bar across the top is not really taking as much stress as the uprights so one could get by with thinner gauge there and if you rotate it with a corner pointed up it should resist bowing a little better still. Am I thinking wrong? Any engineers in the house?
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Mine is 14 gauge...I don't see a reason to go any thinner.
You are correct...turning the top rail 45° so that the bending force is across the diagonal will make it more resistant to bowing. If the hammock attachment points are kept within 10-12 inches of the top rail, you shouldn't encounter any problems.