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  1. #1
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    Differential cut UQ?

    Hi guys!
    I need some help here now....math was never my strongest side unfortunately, so i´m struggling a bit with trying to figure out measurements for what i think is called a diffrential cut underquilt...
    Basically i want the inner fabric closest to the hammock to be more or less untentioned, whereas the outer one, to have the baffles...
    I´m sewing right through the fabric, so i won´t use No see um...
    Dimensions i´m using is 125 cm long and 115 cm wide, with 7,5 cm loft...

    Now, what i´m wondering is first of all, how many baffles would be logical to put?

    Secondly, measurements for the outer layer if the inner one is 115 cm?

    Third one, where do i actually put the seems on the outer one in regards to forming evenly shaped baffles?

    And finally, how do i best finish off the ends, since they´re probably going to get a bit bulky?

    I tried searching but it´s all down to formulas and stuff, i´ll probably fall asleep before reaching the end of the post

  2. #2
    Senior Member G.L.P.'s Avatar
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    ok i think i can help you some....

    first baffles are the walls you sew into the fabric what you mean is chambers
    how many chambers would you need depends on the size of the UQ
    and your taste... but the smaller the better i like 5 inch chambers but thats me... that way the down does not move around much

    now to get the Diff cut say your doing 5 inch chambers...
    the bottom or side next to your back measure out your 5 inch chambers...
    now on the outside or the side not facing you make the measurement lets say 5 1/2 inchs ... see what i'm getting at ?
    just add more to the top layer ...
    to be honest i would do baffles.. i found baffles alot better to work with then sew thru .... it's more work but it comes out alot nicer
    It puts the Underquilt on it's hammock ... It does this whenever it gets cold

  3. #3
    Senior Member turnerminator's Avatar
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    +1 on baffles. Aside from the extra warmth they will create, I find its much easier to work out the differentials with baffles and the whole project looks better made ( and is)
    With a 115 inner layer, I would mark 9 equally spaced baffles to give 10 chambers at 115mm
    The outer layer should then measure 138cm width, with a baffle spacing of 138mm.


    Once you have the UQ shell sewn, its time for sewing the end. I sew straight through with a wide zig-zag and cut off any excess material. You can add the longitudinal differential by sewing the two layers together and leaving some of the top layer to be trimmed off-I remove 15-25mm from each end of the top layer after sewing closed. I then sew grosgrain or nylon over the seam to make the channel. The other end is the same after filling with down.

    Hope this helps, works for me. just my $0.02.

  4. #4
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    Hi!
    Ok, seems like it´s a better idea doing it with baffles then...i wanted to skip them in the first place for 2 reasons, one, i´ll most probably never sleep outside when it´s below 30´s..
    Secondly, i´m trying to make the UQ as small as possible packwise, but keeping the measurements as they are.
    Are you really loosing that much heat if not using baffles?

  5. #5
    Senior Member fred1diver's Avatar
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    the size of the baffles depends mainly on the loft of the UQ you want to make, the thicker the loft the warmer the UQ will be, if you search you will be able to find a loft table, baffles aren't really hard to make
    the result will be that much nicer
    I think I've read that for dif cut it's basically simple math:
    has to do with an internal radius ( inner fabric) versus external radius (outer fabric) the radius's difference is the size of the baffles!
    I'm no expert but I hope this helps, I can easily figure it in my little head but the explaining part is harder

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by turnerminator View Post
    +1 on baffles. Aside from the extra warmth they will create, I find its much easier to work out the differentials with baffles and the whole project looks better made ( and is)
    With a 115 inner layer, I would mark 9 equally spaced baffles to give 10 chambers at 115mm
    The outer layer should then measure 138cm width, with a baffle spacing of 138mm.


    Once you have the UQ shell sewn, its time for sewing the end. I sew straight through with a wide zig-zag and cut off any excess material. You can add the longitudinal differential by sewing the two layers together and leaving some of the top layer to be trimmed off-I remove 15-25mm from each end of the top layer after sewing closed. I then sew grosgrain or nylon over the seam to make the channel. The other end is the same after filling with down.

    Hope this helps, works for me. just my $0.02.
    The grosgrain, is 3/4" sufficient or should i go for a full inch?
    I´m going for the baffle design, and doing as you suggested, 10 chambers...hopefully that´ll be fine..
    I´m guessing that the height of the actual Noseeum should be the same as the expected height of the baffles? i´m aiming for about 3" loft.

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