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  1. #71
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    and not all inside walls are built to code, either! thruout a home's life chances are very good that at some point home remodelers will remove or add walls...and it's rarely that they get inspected to the current code. how could the culprits anticipate that you'd want to attach a hammoch sometime in the future? once covered with dry wall, no one can tell what the quality of the framing is like underneath.

  2. #72
    Member Towellie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_gr8t_waldo View Post
    and not all inside walls are built to code, either! thruout a home's life chances are very good that at some point home remodelers will remove or add walls...and it's rarely that they get inspected to the current code. how could the culprits anticipate that you'd want to attach a hammoch sometime in the future? once covered with dry wall, no one can tell what the quality of the framing is like underneath.
    ??? Why would it be common for a homeowner to knock out a wall and build it right back with crappy workmanship? If you are taking out a wall there isn't going to be a wall to hang a hammock from, and if they added a wall, it's usually pretty obvious. I'm sure there are an extremely small number of isolated cases, but the average home is not going to be littered with rebuilt walls.

    Having said that, obviously older homes may not have been built within any regulations, but you're generally going to know if your house is over 50 years old and can make a judgement call based off your unique situation. I don't mean to generalize for everybody, but most of the studs behind drywall in most homes can support far, far more weight than a person.
    Nick 'Towellie'
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  3. #73
    Senior Member smokeeater908's Avatar
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    My house was built in the late 1800's and the inside of my walls look like trees split and stacked like a log home with bead board on them. When I redid the house I added sheet rock over the boards so when I hung my hammock I use 6" eye bolts and they are great. Just made a video showing 2 DIY hammocks and one of them is setup inside the house. Check out this video


  4. #74
    Senior Member GW Sears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldgringo View Post
    Bradley (I think) built one similar to this for his daughter. There's a thread with pics, somewhere.
    A simpler method would be to use a couple of "A" shaped stands placed against opposite walls, with a cross bar run between them. This forms a free standing unit which is prevented from swaying in one axis by the walls and in the other by the legs of the "A". If the hammock is secured at the ends of the crossbar, there is little bending moment, so something like the top rail tubing for chain link fences could be used, in which case the crossbar could be quickly broken down into two or more pieces for storage.

    This should work well for those renting, since no modification to the wall is necessary.

  5. #75
    Senior Member GW Sears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Towellie View Post
    ??? Why would it be common for a homeowner to knock out a wall and build it right back with crappy workmanship? If you are taking out a wall there isn't going to be a wall to hang a hammock from, and if they added a wall, it's usually pretty obvious. I'm sure there are an extremely small number of isolated cases, but the average home is not going to be littered with rebuilt walls.

    Having said that, obviously older homes may not have been built within any regulations, but you're generally going to know if your house is over 50 years old and can make a judgement call based off your unique situation. I don't mean to generalize for everybody, but most of the studs behind drywall in most homes can support far, far more weight than a person.
    I used to be a Realtor, and the things that people do to their houses will stagger your imagination, particularly if they are planning to unload it.

  6. #76
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    As a bigger guy (280+), I wouldn’t think any internal stud wall would hold my kinda weight consistently. It seems like a gambled, as stud walls are designed to support weight vertically, not horizontally. 2x4’s are very strong when the load is with the grain, even prefab stud walls with nails driven directly through the top and bottom running studs can be knocked out with a direct blow from a hammer. Older homes built on site may have nails toed in, weaker.
    Since there are some builders on this forum, maybe they can help with an alternative idea. Floor joists are usually 2x10 or 2x12 and can support a heavier load in more direction. What if one was to drill a guide hole in the floor beside a joist, then weld a pipe bracket that could be mounted to that joist. Let’s say four bolts each side, eight total, drilled and mounted through the joist. Where a post (pipe), 6’, would slide into the 2” drilled hole, down into the bracket bolted to the joist. The floor joist would carry the load, and when the piping is lifted out from the guide hole, a cover (Plastic wiring port cover), could be slipped over the hole to clean things up.
    I understand this would only work on the first level of a house or building where the floor joists are accessible. The cons for most would be making the brackets, (which may already exist). I can weld, and access the cellar of my home. The idea of cover holes through the floor seems more reasonable to me. While it may take a bit of work, it should carry a much heavier load, safely. And not have a noticeable mount when not in use. My home is over a hundred years old, solid, but I simply wouldn't trust the wall studs. The floor joists are original as well, but are a true 2+ inches wide by 12 inches deep, 12 inches on center. Very solid, and cross braced.
    Opinions?
    Last edited by Brickwurx mfg.; 10-16-2011 at 18:25.

  7. #77
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    Here is a poor sketch of the bracket I was thinking about.

  8. #78
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    that's the point towellie, most people can't tell from just looking at a wall. heck, ask a home remodeler to assess the worthyness of a wall, and you'll get a string of "maybes","ifs" and "could bes" and in the end they'll say that the only way to know for sure, is to tear off the drywall and see... as said before a framed wall is great at suppporting a vertical load...loads applyed horizontally are a whole different problem ( that's if it's built making the most of the matl's- in the hands of a hack it's just wasted trees)
    Last edited by the_gr8t_waldo; 10-17-2011 at 14:48.

  9. #79
    Senior Member Dos's Avatar
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    very nice video smokeeater.

    I can tell you from building my own house using full cut 4 x 8's and 4 x 12's throughout, because I'm old school like that, I have no problem putting in a couple of eye hooks or the swing eye hook variety in the new apt I have (which I know was built in the 70's - so no cheap 2 x 3 crap from where ever).

    A person can research the tensile strength of any girder or joist and go from there.

    or...the weight limits of the hardware.
    they are on the pkg for a reason.
    with a wide berth for error.

  10. #80
    Member macfly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary_R View Post
    Simple and safe way to hang indoors if your worried about a stud holding your weight.
    Is to spread the load over 2 studs like this.
    I made this in 5 minutes, and most people will have the tools and know how.
    The rings are rated 1200 lbs each and bolted on with two 1/4 inch bolts backed with T-Nuts.
    Then four 4 inch screws mounting it to side by side studs.

    So I'm about to be single for the first time in 8 years, and will be temporarily moving into a partially finished shed in a friend's backyard while I begin to map things out in my life. It's a very small room, so instead of a bed, I've decided to maximize the little space I have and get back to my love of hammocking after having my gear in storage for several years. Having researched a ton of great threads on indoor hanging this morning, I think I want to rig up a mounting system identical to Gary_R's for my Warbonnet Blackbird (thanks for posting your photo, Gary!). The studs on either end of my space are 23 inches apart (this will be where I attach the head end of the hammock) and 15 inches apart (foot end). I'm wondering what the most appropriate lumber size would be to span both of these widths? (I'll be mounting the D-Ring on said pieces of wood.) I see 2x6's mentioned a lot, but that seems to be in the context of houses with finished drywall and more closely placed studs. Is there a different lumber dimension that would be more sturdy for my situation? BTW, I weigh around 165 lbs.

    I attached couple of pictures to illustrate the wall surface that I'm working with; the one with the shelf in the foreground will hold the foot end of the hammock and the other will be the head end.

    Secondly, the distance between the middle of the studs where the D-Rings will be is 11 feet, 3 inches; height from floor to ceiling is the standard 8 feet. I've had my hammock in storage for several years and have lost the feel for exactly how high to tie off each end to achieve the most comfortable sag. Is there a mathematical equation or other form of guidance that I can start with to dial in exactly where I want to mount this hardware on the walls?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by macfly; 06-01-2012 at 01:58.

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