yep. That'd work.
The main thing for me is that I can get the two sides almost exactly the same length when I have one piece, by moving the lark's head that joins it at the middle. Takes more measurement and care to make two cord exactly the same length. One approach is something TeeDee did I think, to finish the hammock ends of those cords in whoopie slings to make it adjustable.I'm still learning about bridge suspensions. Is there an advantage to a single line for the triangle as opposed to two separate matched cords attached to the hammock?
I'll stick to the old way at that place. The slider makes it easier to separate hammock and suspension, but I rarely do that on a bridge hammock. And that pass through eye is trivial to make....And Grizz, would you recommend using the type of eye you did in the video for attaching to the soft shackles near the hammock, or would you use the new whip knot eye for both ends of each cord?
So maybe me and Dutch are the ying and yang of hammocking.
better still, Twiddle Dum and Twiddle Dumber
Others have made this point before but it bears repeating. Most diameters of this cord are really strong,---50% of 2000 lb test is plenty strong enough. I'm not too concerned about knots in a suspension made of 1/8" Amsteel, at all. 7/64" is weaker, but I still put knots in it. Dynaglide only starts at about 1000 lb, and so degrading takes one there into fewer digits of test strength than I want to routinely trust.
shucks, you ain't seen nuthin' yet. For my next trick I'm going to make a pack-free hammocking system. Ha! You don't think so??? Why I'll just make my hammock so you can dual use it as a pack. So there!
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