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Thread: Yale Basket Fid

  1. #1
    Member linxdev's Avatar
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    Yale Basket Fid

    Has anyone used this for splicing:

    http://wesspur.com/splicing/splicing-fids-pushers.html

    I'm am having a hell of a time perfecting the splicing technique on my 7/64 and 1/8. I've been using # 6,7,8,9 knitting needles to open up the Amsteel. The problem I'm having is that after I pull the needle out The ends of the open want to close back up. If I can even get the cord into the bury after I push it about 2" it gets stuck and bunches up. I've tried #22 wire and that seems to help but if the end gets stuck anywhere along the way through the bury it will not move. I've ripped apart wire trying to get it to move.

    I'm thinking of just buying the right tool for the job.

    Chris

  2. #2
    Senior Member Alamosa's Avatar
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    Perhaps your having a bigger problem with technique than with the fid that you are using. In all cases, whether using a large needle, knitting needle, or wire, you will be pulling the bury through the hollow core. I don't think there will be any way to ever just push the end through after opening a hole.

    Here are some tips that help me:
    1) I personally use a wire, usually about a 16 gauge, on my 7/64 amsteel. I bend the wire so that it forms a point and is double layered going through. Then when I bring it out on the other end I am able to just open the bend enough to form an eye to put the end of the bury into.

    2) I also trim 4 of the strands (on an 8 strand rope) for about 1 inch from the end. Then, when I hook the remaining 4 strands into my wire, it pulls easier.

    3) When you are pulling it through, make sure you are pushing from the backside of the outer shell so that it is bunching up as much as possible. If the shell constricts at all on the bury, you will never be able to pull it through.

    4) If you have not already, there are probably some good youtube videos that will help you see the steps.

    Hopefully this helps a little and good luck.
    We must, indeed, all hang together, or assuredly we shall all hang separately. - Ben Franklin
    (known as a win-win on this forum)

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    ^^^What Alamosa said. I also have excellent results with a Dritz Loop Turner.

    The commercial fids are a bit large for 7/64" amsteel.

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    Senior Member hppyfngy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    ^^^What Alamosa said. I also have excellent results with a Dritz Loop Turner.

    The commercial fids are a bit large for 7/64" amsteel.
    +2

    That Dritz Loop Turner is great. Tapering for buries makes a big difference too.
    Some say I'm apathetic, but I don't care. - Randy

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    Senior Member GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    ^^^What Alamosa said. I also have excellent results with a Dritz Loop Turner.
    my favorite tool on 7/64 Amsteel!

    The commercial fids are a bit large for 7/64" amsteel.
    I found this out the expensive way.
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

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    Senior Member beep's Avatar
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    +1 on the Dritz loop turner
    "The more I carry the happier I am in camp; the less I carry the happier I am getting there" - Sgt. Rock

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    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Actually, you can push the bury through using nothing but masking tape. The trick is to wrap it tight and give yourself 2-3" worth of wrapping. Essentially turning the end of the line into a fid. The tighter you wrap it the easier it is.

    That being said, it is easier to pull the bury through.

  8. #8
    Senior Member TiredFeet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by linxdev View Post
    Has anyone used this for splicing:

    http://wesspur.com/splicing/splicing-fids-pushers.html

    I'm am having a hell of a time perfecting the splicing technique on my 7/64 and 1/8. I've been using # 6,7,8,9 knitting needles to open up the Amsteel. The problem I'm having is that after I pull the needle out The ends of the open want to close back up. If I can even get the cord into the bury after I push it about 2" it gets stuck and bunches up. I've tried #22 wire and that seems to help but if the end gets stuck anywhere along the way through the bury it will not move. I've ripped apart wire trying to get it to move.

    I'm thinking of just buying the right tool for the job.

    Chris
    Don't get upset, maybe I'm just not understanding your description, but it sounds to me from what you wrote that you are pulling the needle out and then trying to insert the rope into the center of the rope through the hole left by the needle.

    Now it is entirely possible that I am just not understanding your description, but if that is what you are doing then it is wrong.

    My powers of description leave a lot to be desired, hence if that is what you are doing, then others with better writing skills can describe the procedure better than I can.

    If that is not what you are doing, then I would suggest the Brion Toss splicing wand, small, 3/16" to 3/8" diameter rope. It is listed on the same page you linked to, a little further down. Unfortunately, that is not small enough to handle the 7/64" rope that a lot of people use. Maybe if enough people contact him, he may design one for the 7/64" rope.

    The Brion Toss splicing wand is more expensive than the basket fid, but extremely easy to use and very intuitive to use. Inert the tip of the wand into the rope where you want the splice to end, up the center of the rope, exit where you want the splice to start. Extend the capture loop, insert the end of the rope to bury, pull the capture loop down tight, and then pull the wand back through the rope and out. Disengage the rope from the capture loop and milk the bury back. Done. Something similar to what people do with the Dritz Loop turner, but without that big hook on the end. Just a small diameter tube that is easy to insert and work up the center of the rope.

    From my use of TeeDee's wand, it is the best and simplest splicing tool available for the rope diameters that it can handle. Unfortunately, Brion Toss doesn't have one for the 2 mm and smaller Zing-It or DynaGlide cord.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TiredFeet View Post
    ...Something similar to what people do with the Dritz Loop turner, but without that big hook on the end...
    That big hook will slip right through 2.2 zing-it and works automatically without tightening/loosening a loop.
    Last edited by gmcttr; 07-04-2011 at 20:06.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hppyfngy View Post
    Umm... you're splicing 1.75 Zing-It with the Dritz Loop Turner?

    Have you modified it somehow?
    Apparently the only thing modified was my memory. It must have been the 2.2 zing-it I was thinking of. I just gave it a try with 1.75, and while it can be done, it is difficult.

    I corrected my post even though you have captured my mistake.

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