Originally Posted by
hippofeet
Overcasting is using a zigzag stitch at the edges of raw material, to prevent fraying, and it is nice looking. You set your machine to its widest zigzag, center the material and run it through. You can do this on multiple layers of material. One side of the zig will be off the material.
A pleated pocket is like the pocket on BDU pants, although I have heard it used for pockets that have a triangle fold at the bottom side corners. You basically cut the material larger than you need for the pocket, and fold and iron to get a pocket that expands when filled, but try's to lay flattish when not. Pre-hem the material of the pocket on all sides, about 1/2 inch is easy, and you can use the side of the presser foot, or a magnetic seam guide, or a ruled throat cover to keep the line of stitch even with the edge of the hem.
I attach pockets, straps, loops and whatnot before sewing the bag together, on the raw material. The material can be rolled up on one side, and if done evenly, can be used a guide off the inside of the machine, where the arm meets the base. This works well for long straight lines of stitch (like a hammock). I use a yardstick, tri-square, flexible rule,
tape measure, and small clamps to make temp. guides on the table surface, depending.
I tend to get in a rush, then seam-rip mistakes. And I can't do a button-hole I am happy with.
H.Y.O.H.
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