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Thread: My new setup...

  1. #1
    Senior Member Doody's Avatar
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    My new setup...

    I recently got a grand trunk UL from Amazon for 20 bucks shipped. I was going to rig it for cold weather backpacking as my other 3 hammocks have attached bug nets. Today, however, I got bored and decided it would be nice to have an indoor hammock so..
    A trip to Menards yielded 4 - 3.5inch Spax power lags, 2 tie down attachments for lashing down ATVs

    I actually snapped a #30 Torx driving these in even with drilled pilot holes.

    The lags are rated at 1000 lbs pull out, 1700 lbs sheer load and there are two per tie down. The tie down themselves are the weak link, rated for only 900 pounds each.





    I pulled with all my might on each anchor and could not budge them a nanometer. The don't build em like they used to.

    This was an empty room. I have had the heat/cooling duct sealed since I bought the house. I was going to turn it into an office "eventually". I still can as i can take down the hammock and stick it in the closet at will. My house is around 100 years old so it took at bit of doing to find the studs under the plaster and lathe. Stud finders were entirely worthless. I resorted to the old school method of a strong magnet on a thread and, Bingo. There is a big 40" by 60" window beside the hammock and a 30" x 60" at the head of the hammock so I can try out my summer setups in doors now.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Fronkey's Avatar
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    I would be careful if you want to keep that there full time. Studs aren't meant to be pulled horizontally and it would be a better idea if you hung them from the ceiling. Great deal on the hammock dude.

    Fronkey

  3. #3
    Senior Member Doody's Avatar
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    If the room was bigger, I would do just that but its far too small. However, the "head" is attached to an outside wall. The inside of that wall is lath and plaster. The outside is hardwood overlapped siding. For that stud to pull free it would have to literally pull a hole through the house. The "foot" end is in a wall shared by the closet in my bedroom. That closet wall is tongue and grove carsiding with 2x4 shelf brackets. Not to mention that the studs are much beefier than modern fir 2x4's which are actually 1.5'sx3.5. I weight 165. Divide that by 2 and you have the weight of a plasma tv. If I start seeing cracks in the plaster or other signs of stress then I'll reassess of course
    In a newer home with interior walls made of 2x3s and 3/8 drywall I would be a bit leary and would probably use an external 2x4 tied into 2 or three studs to spread the weight out.

    In any case, I'm not planning on hanging full time.

  4. #4
    Senior Member MAD777's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Doody;514896 I weight 165. Divide that by 2 and you have the weight of a plasma tv.[/QUOTE]

    The pull on those suspension ropes is probably significantly more than your weight on each of them, especially, if I'm seeing the pictures correctly, since you have a flatter than 30 degree angle on the suspension ropes.
    Mike
    "Life is a Project!"

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    Senior Member gargoyle's Avatar
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    Nice work on the indoor set up.
    I did the same thing (basically) and it has worked great for over 2 years.
    No damage or cracks. Depending on the construction techniques used to build the home, I feel this is a great solution.
    My indoor thread.
    Ambulo tua ambulo.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Doody's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD777 View Post
    The pull on those suspension ropes is probably significantly more than your weight on each of them, especially, if I'm seeing the pictures correctly, since you have a flatter than 30 degree angle on the suspension ropes.
    Actually, the "ridgeline" is 95 inches, or just under 8 feet, on a 9.5 foot hammock. So with no load, its very close to 30 degrees. I will watch for signs of stress, though. I was more worried about pull out forces than anything else, thus the 2 lags at each end and the angle offset between the anchors.

  7. #7
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    old home construction much stronger

    I would be willing to bet that house is much better put together than most stick built homes today. Even in our house built in the early 50's the studs are hard as nails, not these light dried things you find in the stores today. Thinking of doing the same next time the wife complains about wanting a new mattress.

  8. #8
    New Member alacamper's Avatar
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    I have a set up at my camp house useing I-bolts set in the studs

  9. #9
    slowhike's Avatar
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    I have a question... with a decent stud finder, how accurately can one identify both edges (& therefore, the exact center) of a 2x4 behind a sheet rock or even a plaster wall?
    I've only used one of the stud finders that are supposed to read the density change (or whatever) & tell you exactly were the 2x4 is, and it did not seam to be precisely consistent.
    With modern 2x4s you only have 1 & 1/2" so knowing that you are hitting dead center would be important if you were going to hang from an eye bolt.
    I too will something make and joy in it's making

  10. #10
    Senior Member Pipsissewa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowhike View Post
    I have a question... with a decent stud finder, how accurately can one identify both edges (& therefore, the exact center) of a 2x4 behind a sheet rock or even a plaster wall?
    I've used an electronic stud finder on drywall walls with good success. I put the stud finder on the wall to the right and drag it left until it beeps and mark the spot. Then I place it to the left an drag it right until it beeps and mark the spot. The marks are usually pretty close to an inch and a half apart. Also, with drywall walls you can drag a magnet along until it finds a nail head or screw head. The drywallers are usually pretty good at finding their studs. Finally, you can rake a work light across the wall and put your eye real close to the wall looking toward the light and almost always see the nail heads or screw heads which will mark the studs.
    "Pips"
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