First Down UQ Project: Your Thoughts on Mine

**gargoyle** · 09-21-2011, 00:32

I'll toss this out there..
DWR is Durable Water Resistant. Fabrics with dwr will work for the outside/bottom of the quilt.

Do the baffles the same at 1 oz each, you want the sides to seal in the heat as well as in the middle.
my 2 cents at 1:30 in the morning.

**andrewallan** · 09-21-2011, 03:36

Use the silinylon for something else, unless you want to make a vapor barrier type arrangement for sleeping in extreme temps, and, in which case you would make the inner of the quilt with it, not the outer.

Re the baffles - I'm not sure why you'd make them different sizes, unless you wanted to have legs or something! You should be aiming for a fairly similar fill over the whole quilt. 6" spacing is what I have used, and is fine.

A nice and simple way to make a foot box is to make the quilt a little longer than needed, and put a drawer cord across the foot end, and then use either a12-18" open ended zip , or some press studs along the outer lower edges of the quilt. By attaching these edges together, and tightening up the drawer cord, you end up with a foot box, or you can leave them open to have a flat quilt.

Also, making the top edge a little curved, with it being longer in the middle by aout 6-8" allows you to cover your head with the quilt and snuggle it around you if it is cold.

What are you using all the shock cord for? Have I missed something?

Andrew A

**MAD777** · 09-21-2011, 05:40

I agree with Gargoyle. Make all baffled chambers the same size with the same amount of down in each.

Andrew: This is an under quilt, hence the need for shock cord and no need for a footbox. I'm sure that a top quilt will be Fire's next project!

**andrewallan** · 09-21-2011, 05:46

Oops. Good call! For some reason I was thinking quilts. I stand corrected!! Now I understand the shock cord requirements.

**andrewallan** · 09-21-2011, 06:03

My apologies to all - I thought this was an "upper quilt" (UQ) entry, hence my response, but now have got my orientation sorted out, and realise that it is an "under quilt" that was being planned.

I'd like to re-visit the silinylon outer of an "under-quilt" issue, as I was planning the same, and would appreciate more input.

Given that:
The underquilt is potentially exposed to rain/snow etc.
Hot air goes upwards
Air condenses as it rises and cools to produce moisture

Doesn't it follow (sequiter) that the under-surface of the UQ could be waterproof, without leading to excessive condensation on that surface, as any condensation would occur on the outer surface of the "Upper" Q, or even the tarp?

I can see that a water-resistant outer layer of the under quilt is useful, however I'm trying to sort out what fabric to make it from . Maybe a totally silinylon UQ might be useful, so as to keep out vapour from above, and also moisture from outside?

AA

**trinni** · 09-21-2011, 06:27

Originally Posted by trinni

That's what I'd try if I did not already have my DIY UQ... but I'd only make the outer shell out of silnylon.

Good luck with yours!

Oh where have I been with my head?

The condensation problem inside of the quilt would probably only be acceptable if you're in a really humid area (outside of the quilt). Shame on me!

**FireInMyBones** · 09-21-2011, 06:30

As to the different baffle thicknesses, I do not recall who makes them, but I have seen an UQ with the center baffles thicker than the outer ones for more warmth in the middle and less on the outside to stay warm but save weight. A lot of people in rainy and colder areas use a cover to go over their UQ to prevent rain splatter and overall heat loss. That was my idea behind using the sil.

**andrewallan** · 09-21-2011, 06:53

Now that I've got my orientation................

Currently my main focus is an underquilt, as I'm happy with my TQ (with footbox). How are you going to orientate your baffles? I was thinking about making mine with baffles running along the axis of the hammock, rather than across, as this would then minimise sidewards shift. What about differential cut etc...................!!!!

It's all an interesting mental exercise.

Many years ago I worked in a shop that sold top end designed mountaineering gear in Oz (Mountain Designs). At that stage we made sleeping bags with horizontal baffles in the lower half and vertical baffles across the chest, and made differentially cut bags as well.

I made a few bags like this myself (1.5oz nylon), and also a differentially cut (including sleeves) fully baffled goretex down jacket........

At the end of the day, I think the jacket weighed about 1000g. My sleeping bag was about 2kg. Now I sleep in the snow under a 700g quilt made from 1oz nylon and 600 loft down (ie low quality down). I look back at the 80's and feel that we over-designed stuff then.......... A lot.

KEEP IT SIMPLE. Cut the baffles the same size. Hand stuff the thing. Make it quickly, and just use it.

AA

**trinni** · 09-21-2011, 07:24

Originally Posted by andrewallan

My apologies to all - I thought this was an "upper quilt" (UQ) entry, hence my response, but now have got my orientation sorted out, and realise that it is an "under quilt" that was being planned.

I'd like to re-visit the silinylon outer of an "under-quilt" issue, as I was planning the same, and would appreciate more input.

Given that:
The underquilt is potentially exposed to rain/snow etc.
Hot air goes upwards
Air condenses as it rises and cools to produce moisture

Doesn't it follow (sequiter) that the under-surface of the UQ could be waterproof, without leading to excessive condensation on that surface, as any condensation would occur on the outer surface of the "Upper" Q, or even the tarp?

I can see that a water-resistant outer layer of the under quilt is useful, however I'm trying to sort out what fabric to make it from . Maybe a totally silinylon UQ might be useful, so as to keep out vapour from above, and also moisture from outside?

AA

You would want to use a breathable dwr ripstop nylon. It is absolutely sufficient for the spray unless you want to use your UQ as a boat.