How to align 2 layers to sew?

**hfmac** · 09-27-2011, 14:32

Can someone please recommend a method to sew together the 2 layers in a double bottom hammock?

My problem is that on the side with the pad insertion opening, the gap portions of the dbl layers (for pad insertion) aren't aligning correctly after I sew them together. There's usually a half inch difference for each gap I leave.

This causes the lay to be funny as one side is tighter (the other side where I sew the full length of both layers together is fine).

**easyriver** · 09-27-2011, 17:02

You are pinning them together before you start aren't you? I'm a newbie at sewing myself and I found out real quick that it really pays to take your time when pinning a project together. A good pinning job means an easier sewing job?

(We need a sewing Smiley)

**hfmac** · 09-27-2011, 17:35

Originally Posted by easyriver

You are pinning them together before you start aren't you? I'm a newbie at sewing myself and I found out real quick that it really pays to take your time when pinning a project together. A good pinning job means an easier sewing job?

I did put pins but maybe not enough? I did not pin where I wasn't going to sew (the gaps). I'm not sure how best to square the layers before I pin them either.

**MAD777** · 09-27-2011, 18:52

What I do is make a mark along each piece of fabric exactly 12" apart. When I line up the fabric to sew, I make sure these marks are also lined up.

As the two layers of material go through the machine's foot, one layer can scoot a tiny bit more than the other. I'm told a walking foot helps with this, but I don't know. Also, as I feed the two layers through, I have to be careful not to tension one layer more than the other.

But those marks work well for me. I know whether or not the layers are staying aligned.

**hfmac** · 09-27-2011, 19:56

Originally Posted by MAD777

What I do is make a mark along each piece of fabric exactly 12" apart. When I line up the fabric to sew, I make sure these marks are also lined up.

As the two layers of material go through the machine's foot, one layer can scoot a tiny bit more than the other. I'm told a walking foot helps with this, but I don't know. Also, as I feed the two layers through, I have to be careful not to tension one layer more than the other.

But those marks work well for me. I know whether or not the layers are staying aligned.

Ok that's a useful tip. Thanks. Given you then sew one side correctly using your technique, how do you ensure that when you go over to the other side to your second seam that everything is square?

**MAD777** · 09-27-2011, 20:10

Originally Posted by hfmac

... how do you ensure that when you go over to the other side to your second seam that everything is square?

Mark the other side as well, including the spaces that you will skip.
Then, make additional marks (different color) where you are to start and stop sewing.

WV · 09-27-2011, 20:52

Another tip: put your pins perpendicular to the line you will stitch (and remove them as you sew, rather than sewing over them).

**Ramblinrev** · 09-28-2011, 07:48

It helps to use a two handed sewing approach but that adds to the learning curve. By this I mean have the right hand in front of the machine guiding and steering the fabric. The left hand is behind the needle holding equal tension on the two pieces as they come through the stitch plate. _BUT_ do NOT pull the fabric with the left hand. Just keep the tension even as the machine does the work. That's an acquired skill that you will need to practice for a whole before you get the hang of it.

Work in short sections. 6-10" tops. Smaller if the the fabric is super slick like sil.

**hfmac** · 09-28-2011, 08:24

Originally Posted by Ramblinrev

It helps to use a two handed sewing approach but that adds to the learning curve. By this I mean have the right hand in front of the machine guiding and steering the fabric. The left hand is behind the needle holding equal tension on the two pieces as they come through the stitch plate. _BUT_ do NOT pull the fabric with the left hand. Just keep the tension even as the machine does the work. That's an acquired skill that you will need to practice for a whole before you get the hang of it.

Work in short sections. 6-10" tops. Smaller if the the fabric is super slick like sil.

Thanks, that's a good tip also. I've noticed at the end of 10 feet of a seam the fabric might have shifted.

For some reason I'm obsessing over how to get the 2 layers squared upped and aligned in preparation for the sewing.

I've sewed it twice now. The second time was better but I still feel uneveness in the hammock bed. One side is slightly more tensioned than the other. It isn't even like a single layer that I sewed.

**gargoyle** · 09-28-2011, 08:37

Theres usually a little slop in the pad insertion area. Being the two layers arent attached at that point, they just lay different.
All the dl hammocks I've seen have a looser fabric on/near the pad insertion area. Adding velcro or elastic along the opening can alieviate the look of sagging.
Once the pad is in place and your weight is on the hammock, the gap will usually tighten up some. If it is too drastic, a small dart near the saggy side opening will help.

As long as the pad fits, stays in place, and works, I'd say dont worry about it.

Pics may help.