Is it possible to splice 3/32 shock cord into gutted paracord?
If so then why not go with 2 feet of shock cord on the ends and 5 feet in the middle on either side. I'm not sure if it would be any lighter, or if it would even hold together.
Is it possible to splice 3/32 shock cord into gutted paracord?
If so then why not go with 2 feet of shock cord on the ends and 5 feet in the middle on either side. I'm not sure if it would be any lighter, or if it would even hold together.
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Even better: I have easily buried 1/8" shock cord within single-braided hi-tek line on hand, both of them (Spectra and Vectran) far stronger than needed.
No accurate scale here for small weights to measure the savings in mass. I am surprised that for so much concern over paring weight, the inclusion of more-than-minimum rubber shock cord in the system is not given more attention. Not only is it dense and heavy, it isn't even rated for strength, which given its light cover and rubber core cannot be very great. How much or little strength is needed to hold up a 2 lb UQ, even when that is done by stretching it out at a 30 degree hang angle?
You only need lengths of shock cord twice as long as the range of adjustment required by the system:
Calculation: Pre-tensioned at 30-50% of its length and maxed out at about double the length. So usable range = (100%-50% = 50%)
Using just five feet of shock cord might save most of the mass of another twenty feet of a full-rail shock-cord suspension since twenty feet of 200lb test Dyneema weighs less than 8 grams.
To be fair, JRB (and others) don't have channels and rails in the first place. The JRB shock cords for both ends, weigh < 1/2 oz .
As I move around specific areas of the UQ are pulled tight or loose depending on my position. It seems the full length shock cord provides some dynamic "darting" to play-out or snug-up the different areas. Having shock cord only on the end does not account for this along the length of the UQ.
Static cord on the ends and shock cord through the channels may work, however, there may be more adjustment to both sides to keep the static portion on the end.
Given the small length of shock cord that could be swapped out, not sure it would be worth the hassle.
We must, indeed, all hang together, or assuredly we shall all hang separately. - Ben Franklin
(known as a win-win on this forum)
no reason that all shockcord inside the side channels couldn't be part shockcord part static, it just adds alot of complexity into the manufactuering process, swapping out a single piece of cord for several pieces.
having cord running through a side channel is necessary on quilts like the yeti because the sides of the quilt are convex...attaching to the 4 corners only would leave the sides floppy in a situation like that. having some kind of cord running through the sides allows you to slide the quilt on the suspension of course which allows for exact positioning.
no worries about using some static in the system provided the quilt still has enough give while still providing enough tension to keep it tight to the bottom of the hammock.
do the HG uq's still have a drawcord at the ends?
yeah, still have a static cordlock and shockcord to cinch the ends.
demostix, and all,,,,
i've also wondered why full shocky? why not zing it and shockcord?
in my wondering, i've left it at that....but now feel compelled
to test.
maybe shockcord in the channels, and zing it to the head/foot end -
or like others, the opposite.
something that did strike me was a lot of the times my face/head ends up
against the shockcord, be it the quilt channel or the area just outside
the channel... i think that's why i originally decided against even attempting
to mess with it.
"Jeff-Becking"
DOWNTOWN BROWN!!!!
My side channels have about 2' of shock cord connected to zing-it. I put the shock cord near head (left side) and feet (right side), but I don't think the exact location matters because the zing-it slides through the channel so easily.
And in my experience work at least as well as anything else. With the Caveat that they have not offered much in the way of torso length quilts. Hence, I have not really seen any reports on how well these work. I can say I now have one and 1st impression is it is going to work just fine, torso or full length, on a bridge or gathered hammock. Time and cold weather will tell.
As long as shock cord is the big soft wet kiss that everyone tolerates, Warbonnetguy is certainly correct that splicing, having conversation with customers about WHERE the shock cord should go, etc, are all needless complications.
Then there is he current method of setting the UQ. Pull it up tight, so it actually lifting the entire hammock up with hammock empty. Then get in, and release tension until the UQ just touches, and is no longer compressed.
Now, this is like torquing the bolt until it breaks, and then backing off 1/2 turn. Except, with shock cord, nothing breaks. Change out to less than 10 feet of play, as with current full-channel/ rail systems, and users expecting all that play could very well break the cord.
I wouldn't doubt that Warbonnet's engineered Yeti, a shaped partial UQ with gaskets on the sides (and therefore I presume a lower-pressure hollow in the center of them) works best with whatever system of tensions he has developed. At least is is described as cradling the torso and, I think, keeping it cradled as the torso shifts in the hammock. That requires a compliant suspension, I think.
But, for a full-length UQ, I cannot see the advantages of sometimes getting back in the hmmck in the dark of night and realizing that there was so much play in the shock cord that the UQ is hanging uselessly, a folded taco, entirely on one side of the hmmck. Seems to be tolerated by users asking not what the weight of the whole UQ system is, but what the weight of the UQ w/o the suspension. So, the suspension gets a pass.
I have further questions about whether soft, sloppy systems aren't responsible for the attraction of complete socks, because the sloppy shock cord misdirects attention from major convection losses of bad sealing, but that's for another thread.
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