How about shockcord through the side channels and static line connecting the ends to the hammock? Still keeps the elasticity required and also reduces weight.
How about shockcord through the side channels and static line connecting the ends to the hammock? Still keeps the elasticity required and also reduces weight.
Full length shock cord=for when you miss the hammock edge and squash the UQ to the floor.
A problem that is directly proportional to the volume of alcohol consumed.
Another reason for full length Shock cord is when the cold makes it go limp-pulling more through to compensate hits the non-stretchy cord and hey presto, a rigid UQ suspension is born.
For me, the benefits far outweigh the weight penalties of shock cord.
Please check something for me while I also do some checking to see if my memory on this is correct.
With your bridge hammock, do the top edges of the UQ snug up against the side of the bridge (BMBH?) hammock, or is there a small gap? If it is snug, can you remember if it was snug on the(sides of) bridge BEFORE you added the full length shock cord?
Here is my memory which I will try to verify today: With my full length MW4 on my BMBH, there is always a small gap on the sides between the top side of the quilt and the hammock. I have actually added a GripClip and thin shock cord to pull that gap closed. What I have never been sure of is if that effects function in any way, as I have never been cold in this quilt.
However, if mem serves, when I have placed my synthetic full length shock cord "Yeti" ( torso size, not full length), the quilts top edges are nice and snug up against the hammock sides. It never occurred to me before this thread that it might be the full length shock cord accounting for this. I'll try and check to see if this is indeed a difference.
As for the exact subject of the OP, "why" bother with full length cord on a full length quilt, would the continuous adjustment capabilities allow for better venting?
My DIY IX UQ started with full-length shock cords, but the darn thing kept gathering and sliding down toward the middle on both ends.
So, I sewed on corner loops.
I found the side cords help keep it tight against the hammock, so I added them back, with a small cordlock, I cinch the sides about 2-3", and it seals better...
"Do or do not, there is no try." -- Yoda
Full length UQ's on a bridge will have a small (cold) gap in the middle if you attach the UQ too high on the hammock. The JRB has loops a couple inches down the corners that lower the attachment point of the UQ. If you attach a full length UQ on a bridge near the spreader bars you will have this cold spot. The UQ is being pulled straight while the hammock is forming an hour glass shape [)(].On a shorter UQ the suspension will follow the lines of the hammock eliminating this issue. You still have to be careful to attach the UQ suspension as close tothe hammock body as possible. The coldest night I have had in a hammock was the first time I used a full length UQ on a bridge. The best solution is to find a way to pull the center in and a narrower UQ is easier to seal. Putting the suspension cord thru the side channels will not hurt or help in this situation.
I've almost done that, and no alchohol was involved.
Hmmmm - I've experienced the cord going limp, I thought it was the cordlock slipping but maybe not. Might have been the temp (~28 degrees).Another reason for full length Shock cord is when the cold makes it go limp-pulling more through to compensate hits the non-stretchy cord and hey presto, a rigid UQ suspension is born.
For me, the benefits far outweigh the weight penalties of shock cord.
My reasons for a hybrid bungee/rope suspension were twofold. First, I didn't have enough bungee for the mammoth sized Brazilian. Second, the longer the bungee the "softer" the spring, which can result in sag. Amsteel runs thru the UQ channels, selected to avoid abrasion of the fabric. My thinking is that as long as part of the UQ suspension has stretch it should provide the same result as an all bungee system.
For the end channels I have some UQs with bungees and others without. In theory and according to the Jacks you shouldn't need stretch in the end channels because the suspension bungees provide the needed movement. In practice I find that having bungees in there just works better. But still not good enough, which is why I've been suggesting the need for draft tubes.
Knotty
"Don't speak unless it improves the silence." -proverb
DIY Gathered End Hammock
DIY Stretch-Side Hammock
Stretch-Side "Knotty Mod"
DIY Bugnet
When attaching the full length JRB MW4 to the loops on the JRB BMBH exactly as per JRB directions, I still have the gap on the sides, though I have neve been cold. Just in case, I often ( but not always) run a piece of shockcord over the hammock connecting one side of the quilt to the other. This pretty much pulls the quilt into the hammock in the middle.
For whatever the reason, this does not happen with the shorter Yeti quilt with full length shock cord. No gap. But maybe like you say it is just because the quilt is shorter.
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