Has anyone made an interchangeable underquilt?

[JayS]

Gaps and fit would be a problem with the tube system, IMO.

Another solution may be stackable/modular thin underquilts.
Say each quilt is only 1" loft. And each quilt would be differentially cut a little larger than the other to offset any compression, and have matching tieouts.
A 1" loft quilt for summer.
Add a second quilt for 2" of total loft, for spring and fall.
Add a third layer for winter. That would 3" of total loft, plus the additional fabric layers.
The extra layers will add weight, but so would tubes. But you'd be gauranteed a tight fit. The trapped air between the layers of fabric may improve the quilts rating? Or allow heat to escape?

Why not just two quilts -- a 1" quilt and a 2" quilt? Use the 1" for summer, the 2" for spring/fall and both for winter. Or if you sleep cold, maybe a 1.5" and a 2.5".

[gargoyle]

Why not just two quilts -- a 1" quilt and a 2" quilt? Use the 1" for summer, the 2" for spring/fall and both for winter. Or if you sleep cold, maybe a 1.5" and a 2.5".

The three quilt idea was just a theory.
Stacking underquilts has been done, a few threads have addressed the idea already.

[Optimus]

How about down filled tubes made of Insultex.It would add R value, be lighter than nylon, and it has a stiffer hand so that might help with the bunching issues. You might even be able to slide your "IX down tubes" into "IX socks", reducing the need for additional "down tubes". I made a sewn-thru baffled down quilt made with IX. I covered it with nylon for durability. It has performed well the one and only chance I've had to test it so far.

You would have one quilt shell, a set of tubes, and one or two sets of tube socks.

[MacEntyre]

How about multiple tubes instead of individual tubes?

That is kinda sorta how I use a Speer Top Blanket (only 42" wide) as a supplement inside a Baby Orca, or inside a sock.

[ShadowAlpha]

How about multiple tubes instead of individual tubes?

That is kinda sorta how I use a Speer Top Blanket (only 42" wide) as a supplement inside a Baby Orca, or inside a sock.

Was waiting for you to chime in Mac

I attempted a sock with a dory boat design (mentioned on post #6)- filled it was laminate floor foam. it added insulation was just a pain in the butt keeping the foam in place

[MacEntyre]

I attempted a sock with a dory boat design...

It helps to fit the dory pattern to a hanging hammock... I filled a WBBB with sofa cushions when I made mine. That showed the extent of the bottom, and the depth of "freeboard" in the sides.

A sock will accept any kind of added insulation. So far, I have tried various full length and 3/4 UQs, and Top Blankets, as well as down vests and other garments. If you had a dual use for tubes of down, they would be ideal!

[thedavil]

Pretty awesome idea.

I think with a little ingenuity you could actually drop some weight with this idea by eliminating most of the shell fabric of the quilt. For example, you could use Twill on the top of the UQ and shave an oz or two, or no fabric at all for the top shell. Since the shell no longer has to be durable or down-proof, you could surely get away with some lighter materials.

Also, you could easily separate the tubes inside the shell with a couple 3" lengths of shockcord running directly through the quilt between each tube...then you could just cinch it down to accommodate whatever tubes you put in there without worrying about shifting.

[FLRider]

After thinking this through for a couple of days, I really think that Gargoyle has the right of it. Thin, easy-to-attach layers that would be slightly larger than the one above them (for differential layering to avoid compression of the down) would probably be the easiest and lightest way to go about things. Use how ever many you think are necessary for your camping range, and go to town.

The question becomes, how do you want to attach the layers? Snaps? Omni-tape? Toggles? Hmmm....

How about defeating drafts between layers? Draft stoppers at the ends? Omni-tape at the ends? Something else?

How will you manage venting for shoulder temps? Will you remove layers or simply vent the ends? And, if the latter, is it worth having a venting system for each layer?

Just some thoughts...

[Fibby]

I am now leaning more toward gargoyle's layer idea. When I get some extra funds I can do some mock-ups and see what works. Let me know if anyone tries it before I can.

For attaching the layers you could just use loops and ties and have some designated holes in the middle of each layer to push a loop through and tie it. You'd save weight over toggles/buttons/snaps.