“I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt.” - Cormac McCarthy
You can remove the bury, taper, and re-insert it.
I don't find much testing to failure which includes long-term fatigue of splices. Build it, pull it, bust it.
In metal failures, stress risers are implicated at strains far below the breaking strengths of the material. (In ordinary terms, stress risers are just sharp discontinuities in strength so that load can come to be concentrated on small areas.
Not to alarm you, but I came across only recently from one of the major mfgs of this kind of rope a description of failure from "creep", the long term (eg 2+year) gradual elongation of the rope under constant load of just 20+% of its breaking strength. The mfg used a single sentence to describe a sudden rupture that can occur anywhere at anytime at only a small fraction (20%?) of the rated breaking strength. The rope is just worn out and gives out.
That would be applicable to hanging from 7/64" Amsteel a 400lb mastadon ham or gutted elk in the smoke-house for two or more years. Unless the meat lost a lot of weight drying out, the line would likely break if it hadn't already lengthened enough to put meat on the floor.
My Dutch Dynaglide whoppies have around 10" of bury I think
“I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt.” - Cormac McCarthy
Derating is usually talked about here as something to be avoided, rather than as a fact of life, something natural that you design around.
So, for cordage which takes knots well, a reasonable approach to adjustable lengths, can be a series of spaced stopper knots, with a sized-right loop or hook slipped over the appropriate knot. The derating is accommodated by selecting rope one size larger.
So, instead of using a whoopie sling made of Dynaglide, you might instead use 7/64" or 1/8" Amsteel with a series of space knots tied in it, hooking a Dutch hook over one of those knots instead of over the loop in a whoopie sling.
I'm getting ready to make some hammock suspensions and just wanted to thank AngrySparrow for most excellent, concise calculation table for the bury distances as well as rope specs!
(see post #2 above)
Mike
"Life is a Project!"
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