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  1. #11
    Senior Member angrysparrow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ferret View Post
    Will I be in much trouble if I neglected the taper but my overall bury length is as long as the recommended overall length?
    That would probably be the most likely point of failure of your whoopies. Without testing, I don't know if there's any way to know at what point that's likely to happen though.

    Use your own judgement (hyoy, ymmv, batteries not included, etc).
    “I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt.” - Cormac McCarthy

  2. #12
    Senior Member DemostiX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ferret View Post
    Now realizing the other purposes of the taper:
    Will I be in much trouble if I neglected the taper but my overall bury length is as long as the recommended overall length? Or should I make a new set.
    You can remove the bury, taper, and re-insert it.

    I don't find much testing to failure which includes long-term fatigue of splices. Build it, pull it, bust it.

    In metal failures, stress risers are implicated at strains far below the breaking strengths of the material. (In ordinary terms, stress risers are just sharp discontinuities in strength so that load can come to be concentrated on small areas.

    Not to alarm you, but I came across only recently from one of the major mfgs of this kind of rope a description of failure from "creep", the long term (eg 2+year) gradual elongation of the rope under constant load of just 20+% of its breaking strength. The mfg used a single sentence to describe a sudden rupture that can occur anywhere at anytime at only a small fraction (20%?) of the rated breaking strength. The rope is just worn out and gives out.
    That would be applicable to hanging from 7/64" Amsteel a 400lb mastadon ham or gutted elk in the smoke-house for two or more years. Unless the meat lost a lot of weight drying out, the line would likely break if it hadn't already lengthened enough to put meat on the floor.

  3. #13
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ferret View Post
    Now realizing the other purposes of the taper:
    Will I be in much trouble if I neglected the taper but my overall bury length is as long as the recommended overall length? Or should I make a new set.
    I'd say fix the old set. You might be able to pull the old buried ends out, taper them, and re-bury without undoing anything else.

    Hint: there will be a surprise gear inspection at Dolly Sods.

  4. #14
    Senior Member Shewie's Avatar
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    My Dutch Dynaglide whoppies have around 10" of bury I think

  5. #15
    Senior Member ferret's Avatar
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    Thanks all for the chart and the info! Somehow I couldnt find anything related to using dynaglide beforehand. I'll give a shot at fixing them tonight.


    Quote Originally Posted by WV View Post
    Hint: there will be a surprise gear inspection at Dolly Sods.
    Ha, sounds like I have homework to do!

  6. #16
    Member Meriadoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by angrysparrow View Post
    A figure-8 knot will derate the cording more than a splice.

    Here's a table that lists the bury lengths -
    Attachment 32296
    Thanks for the table. I have a question though. By how much does a figure 8 knot derate the cord?
    "Not all those who wander are lost."
    Appalachian Trail Thru Hike Blog

  7. #17
    Senior Member angrysparrow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meriadoc View Post
    By how much does a figure 8 knot derate the cord?
    I really couldn't say. That depends on both the knot and the cording. The manufacturer of the cording would have to give an exact number.

    The general rule of thumb I've seen is that tying a knot with a sharp bend in the cording can derate it by _up to_ 60%.
    “I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt.” - Cormac McCarthy

  8. #18
    Senior Member DemostiX's Avatar
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    Derating is usually talked about here as something to be avoided, rather than as a fact of life, something natural that you design around.

    So, for cordage which takes knots well, a reasonable approach to adjustable lengths, can be a series of spaced stopper knots, with a sized-right loop or hook slipped over the appropriate knot. The derating is accommodated by selecting rope one size larger.

    So, instead of using a whoopie sling made of Dynaglide, you might instead use 7/64" or 1/8" Amsteel with a series of space knots tied in it, hooking a Dutch hook over one of those knots instead of over the loop in a whoopie sling.

  9. #19
    Senior Member MAD777's Avatar
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    I'm getting ready to make some hammock suspensions and just wanted to thank AngrySparrow for most excellent, concise calculation table for the bury distances as well as rope specs!

    (see post #2 above)
    Mike
    "Life is a Project!"

  10. #20
    Senior Member Callahan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD777 View Post
    I'm getting ready to make some hammock suspensions and just wanted to thank AngrySparrow for most excellent, concise calculation table for the bury distances as well as rope specs!

    (see post #2 above)
    +1! I found this really helpful as well!

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