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  1. #11
    Senior Member Jazilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hikingdad View Post
    When I click the link it brings me to an underquilt spreadsheet?
    Look at the tabs on the bottom of the spreadsheet.
    Yosemite Sam: Are you trying to make me look a fool?
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  2. #12
    Senior Member Bic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazilla View Post
    Look at the tabs on the bottom of the spreadsheet.
    wow! I'm not sure how I missed that...thanks for pointing that out!
    The camper formerly known as HikingDad...

  3. #13
    Member gt7599a's Avatar
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    Baffle Spacing on DIY TQ

    @Jazilla
    Unlike a UQ, or at least the Grizz UQ I built & made the spreadsheet for, spacing of the baffles on this TQ is the same on the inner & out shell. What is not the same is where you start placing your first baffle.

    1. Start with inside (not glossy side) of the inner shell
    2. Measure from bottom end (Sewing Margin + Baffle Spacing)
    3. Using tailor's chalk & a straight edge mark that baffle line
    4. Measure "Baffle Spacing" further toward the top and mark each line
    5. Repeat the whole vertical length of the inner shell marking horizontally.
    6. At the end you should have (Sewing Margin + Baffle Spacing) left
    7. Mark the inside (not glossy side) of the outer shell as follows
    8. Measure from bottom end (Sewing Margin + Baffle Spacing+ Baffle Height)
    9. Measure "Baffle Spacing" further toward the top and mark each horizontal line
    10. Repeat the whole vertical length of the inner shell
    11. At the end you should have (Sewing Margin + Baffle Spacing+ Baffle Height) left. If you don't figure out why.


    Marking the inner & outer shell before you start pinning & sewing baffles makes life a lot easier. Wish I'd realized that before I started sewing.

    Also when sewing the baffles I'd start with the outer shell and make sure you come up the sides the height you want on your baffles (or almost) so that you have a "tub" waiting for a lid as it were. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_o6qcO43x2k starting about 2:20 for an example of what I'm talking about using on a UQ, the principle is the same).

    Ed

  4. #14
    Senior Member Jazilla's Avatar
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    Now I get it. I was thinking UQ. Makes perfect sense now.
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  5. #15
    Member gt7599a's Avatar
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    Talking Finished TQ based on Spreadsheet, differences to watch

    Here's my finished TQ using the spread sheet
    Calculated Goal Dimensions
    Number of Chambers 17
    Baffle Height 2.5
    Finished length 72
    Finished head width 46
    Finished Foot Width 36
    Actual Shell Fabric Weight / sq yrd 1.2 oz
    Baffle Wall material Weight / sq yrd 1.5 oz
    Fill power 700
    Over fill % 20%
    Total Down 12.7 oz
    Minimum Finished Weight 23.2 oz
    Baffle Spacing 4.5
    Finished Actual (with sewn foot box)
    Finished length: 67"
    Finished head width: 43"
    Finished Foot Width: 16" (sewn foot box)
    Baffle Height: 3" (sewing error, spec'd 2.5", built 3", not enough down so it shifts a little too much)
    Weight*: 23.6 oz
    *(I added a little extra down I had, I'm not certain the down I bought was 700 fill power and I could have put more in it)

    Things to watch for.
    1. Factor extra into specified Length (5") & Width (3")
    2. Don't let your baffles get to tall



    Ed
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by gt7599a; 04-11-2012 at 10:09. Reason: comment on difference in baffle height

  6. #16
    Senior Member Jazilla's Avatar
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    I understand the length you lost when making the footbox but where did the 3" on the over all head length go to?
    Yosemite Sam: Are you trying to make me look a fool?
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  7. #17
    Member gt7599a's Avatar
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    @Jazilla
    I'm not sure where the head width went. I had given myself at least 1" margin on each side, inner & outer shell, for sewing the sides shut. I thought it a good idea to post since my TQ is a little shorter than I wanted and didn't want others to get burned.

    Ed

  8. #18
    Senior Member DivaB's Avatar
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    Can you throw one of these together (like in a week) for an under quilt??

  9. #19
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    Thanks for all the work that you put into this. I'm in the planning stage, and this helps a bunch!

    Quote Originally Posted by gt7599a View Post
    I'm not sure where the head width went.
    I thought maybe it was because of the overfill, but I just noticed you said the baffles ended up being 3", instead of 2.5".
    Is the material very 'rounded' over the chambers from the fill?

  10. #20
    Member gt7599a's Avatar
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    @DivaB, Not likely, my beloved wife is almost 6 months pregnant and wants to finish recovering the couch before the little one arrives. Under normal circumstances, maybe, but not at a price or quality that you could get from one of the kind cottage industry folks we have around here.

    For an under quilt check out the under quilt tab on the Google doc. You want the baffles going long ways and Grizz's formula accounts for the difference in inner and out shell radii. I have a video here&showsearch=0">here&showsearch=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> about building one of those. If I had that to do again I might add more 2 more baffles (8 channles instead of 6) or just pack more down into the outermost channels, they tapper down a lot at the top and in mine don't have much down, or I could have made the whole thing wider.

    @Murl: No, it was builder error pure & simple. I kept having to fix formulas & reprinting the directions* and at some point I accidentally changed my baffle height to 3" but didn't update the amount of down to match.

    *for example discovering I was short a baffle because of an Off-By-One error, which is why this is 17 chambers instead of 16

    Ed

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