Two more questions.
What widths are the tops of the end vertical triangles ?
I did not see that.
What size is the gold V section ??
I assume that is at the head and what is the purpose rather than just extending the base camo material.
Two more questions.
What widths are the tops of the end vertical triangles ?
I did not see that.
What size is the gold V section ??
I assume that is at the head and what is the purpose rather than just extending the base camo material.
Yes the hammock width is the same at the head and foot because it is based on the spreader bar which are both 36". the material that forms the arc beneath the spreader bars is narrower at the head so you have a flatter lay. It is wider at the feet because you need more space for your legs to move around; plus they don't feel the squeeze like your shoulders do and the lower your weight hangs beneath the more stable the hammock is. The spreader bar width to material forms the ratio which I refer to. So If you want to use a 39" width, you can calculate the material you need and altter your plans accordingly. The measurements I used are all based on trial and error from quite a few different people like Grizz, BER, etc.... and my own comfort during my multiple attempts at hammocks.
In the camo hammock (my first attempt in this style), I mis cut the material at the head end and sewed so gold material to extend it a bit. Making endcaps is a bit of a pain and it dawned on me that it would be easier to just extent the material to the full length of the triangles. A little weight gain, but a lot less effort to sew it up.
Ed
Okay got you on the gold V section.
Also understand on the pad pocket. I was going to build a full double layer since I have a lot of 1.1 ripstop, but now think I will build a single layer with just a pocket.
What weight ripstop for 235#
Also What widths are the tops of the end vertical triangles or what method to extend the material ?
Thanks - Getting closer.
This is one of the most unique and creative hammock ideas I've seen in a long time - well done!
If you did away with the saddlebags to eliminate any conflict in terms of using Warbonnet's ideas, I could totally see this being something worth manufacturing and selling. You have solved two of the biggest problems with bridge hammocks - weight, and the distance needed between trees. Very nice. I wouldn't mind the chance to buy one of these...
+1 on that!
So Ed,
I'd like to order one,
price?
Or selling this as a kit for DIY?
Plans, material etc.?
If it were me at 235lbs I would use 1.9oz for the main body and 1.1 for the sleeve. You might be fine with 1.1 for both because where the bulk of your weight lies on a dual layer.
I made the feet triangle sides the same length as my spreader bar 36" , but went shorter at the head. When I was calculating the mathematics of suspending my feet in the triangle it seemed to only provide a flat lay in the feet if my triangle sides were all the same. If I shortened the sides relative to the spreader bar, the end sagged down. I did this at the head end to 1. get a little sag so my stuff stays in place, 2. to get a shorter hang. The material at the 22" and 25" ends is all 22" or 25" all the way from the cat cut section to the outer edge. The entire side (tip to tip) is rolled with the polyester webbing. Where the triangle point meets, the two sides can be attached together a few different ways and I warn you that it is tuff to sew where the webbing comes together at the triangle tip.
Ed
Mine is too customized to me and too time consuming to make. I'd have to charge a fortune to sell them relative to my professional salary.
That's the beauty of the Ridge Runner. Brandon has made a great universal bridge to sell. His is simple to make and fast to go together. The saddle bags were a brilliant idea and make the bug net both easier to attach and the design takes the stress off the zipper as the outside edge of the pockect has no strain on it like the inside edge does.
I'd be curious to see his operation. If you had a way to cut multiple patterns at once then you could do this and make a few bucks, but doing it one off takes too much time. My next one would be faster, but I'd probably have to sell them at $800 ea to cover my time.
Ed
Just had an interesting experience! I was hanging in my front yard and decided to head to the back woods. I left the hammock together and just rolled it up a bit. I found a spot and quickly hung my hammock. I climbed in and was laying there a few minutes when I heard a loud "POP" and found myself on the ground. Laying there I thought my triangle had torn. Then I see my head spreader bar is missing. After getting out I see the bar about 15 ft away and a small hole in my net.
What had happened is awhile moving the hammock the end slipped out of the holder. The bias tape on the net was holding the bar, eventually slipping, causing the bar to shoot through the net like a crossbow!
Lessen learned always check the spreader bar to see if it is seated. Like they say never hang any higher than you are willing to fall. The hammocks fine other than the small hole.
I also tried to see if I could hang without the whoopie sling if I ever needed to. I brought my tree strap through the loop I use to hook the sling. It worked just fine hanging on the knot. I could even tie closer to the tree.
Ed
Just a few pics hanging in the trees.
One of the thing I love about hammocks is that you can hang on just about any terrain!
Ed
I have to second (third, fourth) the praise for taking the bridge concept up a notch. Seems to deal with a lot of the drawbacks mentioned about other designs. Your video shows how there isn't too much interference with the spreader bar on your design. I'm certainly going to try one of these when I get back home in a few months. Seems like you have made it pretty simple, too.
Bookmarks