Question about a continuous loop

**SC_Dave** · 04-07-2012, 10:52

How critical is the bury length when making a locked brummel continuous loop? Is it just a critical as the bury length on a WS?
David

**Bubba** · 04-07-2012, 11:15

I would say its recommended. I've made continuous loops with as short as four inch buries (2 two inch buries) that hold. I do bend the loops at the brummel. Don't know if that makes a difference but makes me feel good anyways. If there is no reason to make them shorter than recommended then don't bother. If you do want them short only make them short enough for your purposes. Ultimately its how safe do feel using them.

**SmokeBait** · 04-07-2012, 11:18

The continuous loops have a lock but not really a locked brummel per se. Therefore my thoughts are that the bury length is very important. I like to use 6".

**MAD777** · 04-07-2012, 11:28

Very important! It's my understanding that the locked brummell's only function is to keep the bury from pulling out accidentally when there is no tension on the line. All the heavy lifting of holding the loop together under tension is done by the bury.

**SC_Dave** · 04-07-2012, 11:37

Thanks guys, makes sense. After all if you think about it, before the bury you can easily pull the "lock" apart! I guess I'll experiment a little. One could stitch the bury to give it more strength I would think.
David

**oldgringo** · 04-07-2012, 12:50

Originally Posted by SC_Dave

Thanks guys, makes sense. After all if you think about it, before the bury you can easily pull the "lock" apart! I guess I'll experiment a little. One could stitch the bury to give it more strength I would think.
David

When in doubt, stitch.

**SC_Dave** · 04-07-2012, 13:12

Just an FYI.

Started with a piece 28 inches long and maintaining a 6" bury I was able to make 6-3/4 loop. Thanks guys.
David

**Bubba** · 04-07-2012, 13:17

Originally Posted by SC_Dave

Thanks guys, makes sense. After all if you think about it, before the bury you can easily pull the "lock" apart! I guess I'll experiment a little. One could stitch the bury to give it more strength I would think.
David

Its my understanding that stitching only keeps the splice together in a straight bury when not loaded and does not add any strength to the constriction.

**TiredFeet** · 04-07-2012, 18:37

Originally Posted by SC_Dave

............ After all if you think about it, before the bury you can easily pull the "lock" apart! .............

Then you do NOT have a "Locked" Brummel.

If you are following the instructions that Opie posted on the forums, then you are splicing a "plain" Brummel and not a "locked" Brummel. The plain Brummel is entirely non-functional and it is probably better to not do it and stitch the buries.

**SC_Dave** · 04-07-2012, 19:26

Originally Posted by TiredFeet

Then you do NOT have a "Locked" Brummel.

If you are following the instructions that Opie posted on the forums, then you are splicing a "plain" Brummel and not a "locked" Brummel. The plain Brummel is entirely non-functional and it is probably better to not do it and stitch the buries.

I realized all too late that I made a rookie mistake. In taking the loop off the end of my WBBB suspension rather than cutting the amsteel loop I took it apart. Then I realized

I'm not making a locked brummel at all!!! I had to go back and rework ALL of the ones I had done thinking I was making a locked brummel.

Oh well, good news is I won't make that mistake again!
I saw your post just now as I sat down TiredFeet. Thanks for the heads up.
David