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  1. #11
    Senior Member fin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiredFeet View Post
    If you are considering toggles on the suspension, you might want to read the article Hammock Hanging Method in the articles section.
    That's what Grizz was experimenting with as well - toggled bight.

    Oops - Grizz was posting at the same time, and was quicker on the draw.
    Last edited by fin; 07-21-2008 at 15:46. Reason: Oops.

  2. #12
    Senior Member GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowhike View Post
    Just another thought... I experimented w/ using a round, easton type stake as an attachment/adjustment point.

    It worked. Using the round stake as a toggle might be easier on your cord.
    Interesting that the stake held up. I thought about trying a "titanium nail" but since I could flex it a little with my hands I figured the experiment would be a good way to get a bump on my butt and a bent T-nail.

    Grizz

  3. #13
    Senior Member Graybeard's Avatar
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    Hmmmmm. When I raised this question I thought that with a bit of luck I might get a response or two that could save me a bit of reinventing the wheel. Instead I got a complete set of blueprints for a mission to Mars. Thanks, guys.

    About the only suggestion I can make comes from my experience in the woodworking shop. If you use toggles or marlinspike hitches, don't give up on wood if you have access (such as a woodworking friend) to small scraps of exotic woods. Two in particular would be well suited by reason of surface hardness and extreme strength. They are bloodwood and ipe. Bloodwood is sometimes used for bows for stringed instruments. Ipe is the most common name for a wood sold under several names (all are Tabebuia seratifolia) and commonly used for docks, wharves, and flooring for boxcars. Lacking a lathe, chuck small sticks in a drill press and shape with a wood rasp and abrasives. Leaving a small ridge on the ends should address the concern raised by FishinFinn of having a toggle drop out when not under tension. To keep a small toggle or 'spike from getting lost, leave a long tail when tying the loop on the end of the line. Drill a suitable hole in the end of the toggle and glue the long tail into the hole with a dab of super glue.
    bob

  4. #14
    slowhike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    Interesting that the stake held up. I thought about trying a "titanium nail" but since I could flex it a little with my hands I figured the experiment would be a good way to get a bump on my butt and a bent T-nail.

    Grizz
    I had wondered about trying the Ti "nail type" stakes that BPL.com sells, but never did.
    I did also (just for the heck of it) try the same thing w/ a hollow, aluminum, afghan needle (knitting needle?) from wal-mart. It bent, but the hollow Easton brand stake showed no signs of trouble. I used it for quite a few nights sleeping, mostly at home & a few on trail.
    I too will something make and joy in it's making

  5. #15
    New Member Geechee's Avatar
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    For some time I have used a stake-pin to join the webbing from the tree to the line from the hammock. I use two 5-inch lengths cut from a Swifter dust mop with an aluminum handle. The tubing is about ½ inch in diameter and the two rods together weigh little over an ounce. The webbing is doubled and inserted through a bowline loop from the hammock line and tensioned as much as wanted. Then it is brought over and secured with the rod in a marlin-spike type hitch. As a mental security blanket I also tie a slip knot although I’ve never had it slip. It acts as an effective drip line as well. What I like is when you’re ready to break camp you only need to pull the pin out and the whole ensemble comes apart. Also it doesn’t crumple up your webbing from knots. I’ve used it many times and the rods haven’t bent at all. They’re as straight as when they were first cut. The slickness of the aluminum helps on a smooth extraction when you’re ready to break camp. Would welcome other comments.

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