Amok draumrOriginally Posted by DivaB
Amok draumr
Done!
This did not take me 20 minutes....
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Last edited by CoastieRon; 04-15-2016 at 13:08.
If you put your hammock straps around the hanging lines instead at the ends of the pole you wouldn't get that bend in the top pole.
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Gadget.
I'll try that tonight.
I anchored down last night
This thread has been very inspiring!
Made a turtledog hammock stand today. Works well in the back yard.
Cut the legs 80" long
Cut two pieces of top rail 83" each, uncluding the taper
Used an S hook and eye bolt and 6" hinge.
Paracord as spread limiter.
Seems stable so far. Easy project.
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Made my turtledog stand a week ago right before heading down to Lake Morena campground in Calif (If you're a PCT hiker, you know where that is). Just a one-nighter so I could hike the first 20mi of the PCT the following day.
Not my cleanest work, I was trying to build this right before taking off for this trip. I made the 2x2 posts 7' long and I used two fence top rails cut to 7' so my pole length is 14'. Made it longer for my longer hammocks and so I could use a tarp as well. Forecast called for possible rain that night so thought I'd be better off making it longer so I could use tarp. Since my jeep rack is a bit over 7' long, making everything 7' worked out nicely.
I got the pole end caps, but ended up doing something similar to what gadget mentioned: just wrapped the tree straps around the hanging line and locked it with the dutch clips I already had at the strap ends.
Only problem I had was that once the hammock was up it was a big air sail and the wind kept knocking the hammock and stand down. I put the backpack in the hammock to give it a little bit of weight and that fixed the problem. Adding tarp and staking it down make it very solid.
The top pole being two 7' poles is a bit saggy due to looseness of where they connect. Looks the same loaded and unloaded. I need to make that connection a bit tighter since a couple times when setting up the poles separated.
Worked great, very solid when loaded. My angles were good and my sit height was 20" off the ground (my personal preference). Next up I'll probably use some extra tree straps to make carrying straps for the kit which I'll also used to secure to the jeep rack.
Last edited by agent00111; 05-02-2016 at 10:04.
I have issues with my 2x2s twisting a little, and one of my hinges got bent somehow...
Swapped out rope holding pipe to Amsteel 15" continuous loops
I weigh 218, but I don't think I have any issues yet. I feel as though I maybe putting new wood on it soon.
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I would too. I wouldn't trust knotted pine to keep my corpulence off the ground. Or those hinge caps - all the ones I've see seem like a pretty lousy casting.... I feel as though I maybe putting new wood on it soon.
...
Looks like you need another bolt through the hinge closer to the hinge pin. I believe there are 2 more holes there.and one of my hinges got bent somehow...
Most of us end up poorer here but richer for being here. Olddog, Fulltime hammocker, 365 nights a year.
i would support a decision to replace the knotty woodI have issues with my 2x2s twisting a little, and one of my hinges got bent somehow...
Swapped out rope holding pipe to Amsteel 15" continuous loops
I weigh 218, but I don't think I have any issues yet. I feel as though I maybe putting new wood on it soon.
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as for the bent hinge, it appears to me you put the bolts thru opposite to the way i would have thought to be correct(i understand your concern about snagging on other pieces of your kit), leaving the protruding ends to interfere with folding for travel
also, a possible impediment(cause for bent hinge) would be folding w/ the hanging hardware attached
my simple brain would switch the bolts to leave any excess on the outside & remove all hardware before folding
that said, you might look for ACHORN NUTS for the bolts or get some of those rubber nipples from the hardware store, to prevent the ends of the bolts from attacking other items in your kit during transport
if i rememberize correctly. hinges are made to allow the use of flathead countersunk screws which allows them to close w/ both sides flush w/ each other
using a flathead machine screw from the inside and using T-NUTS(30¢ ea ±) on the outside w/ the bolt ends cut/filed off flush would remove any possibility of components snagging on anything in your kit during transport
http://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Har...s/N-5yc1vZc2a4
just idle ramblings of an old man
sw
"we are the people our parents warned us about" jb
steve
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