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  1. #2711
    Senior Member
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    Nov 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oceanbluekj View Post
    I am sorry if this has been mentioned before. I started reading this thread a few days ago and was a hundred pages into it before I realized I was only a 1/3 through. So much info at once and I probably missed it. If I use 2x3 to make my stand how much do you think it can hold? I am 235ish and would like to know if that is it or if my kids or my Honey could get in with me. Anyone one have a good questimate on the weight capacity?
    Again sorry if I missed it or haven't read it enough.
    From my personal experience, the weak point is the top rail. I'd use a more sturdy top rail if I was looking to add weight capacity before I'd upgrade the legs. It obviously wont hurt anything to add more sturdy legs, but I'd guess the top rail would bend before the legs fail (assuming you are using the standard chain link fence top rail most use on the TDS). With a more sturdy top rail I'd guess I could safely get 350-400 lbs. on my stand as long as there wasn't a lot of swinging around, etc.

  2. #2712
    TwistingInTheWind's Avatar
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    Nov 2014
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    Michigan
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    Eno Double Nest
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    11x11 PU-Nylon
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    Thanks for all the info!
    My turtledog stand was a great success!
    20160726_205414.jpg

    I used it at the state park for my fishing trip this weekend.
    Notice the hard packed clay ground which I didn't have to sleep on...
    20160730_081506.jpg

    Turtledog stands are the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow!
    20160730_190831.jpg
    "It's not the man who's catching lots of fish and shooting lots of game who's having fun, it's the chap who's getting ready to do it."
    ~Horace Kephart

  3. #2713
    Member Kale Kale's Avatar
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    Jul 2016
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    Southern Maryland
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    I see that some people place their hinge all the way at the end of the 2x2s and some people place it farther down and then either taper the ends with an angle or leave the ends whole. Other than having to use limiting cord on the legs, is there a benefit to having the hinges in one place over the other? Build wise, having the hinges at the end seems easiest, but if there is a structural reason for placing them farther in, then I would choose to do it that way.

    Thoughts?

    If this was asked earlier in the thread, accept my apology, but I did not see it.

  4. #2714
    Having timber sticking out the top (and chamfered) gives you a limit stop, but it can cause a fair bit of leverage on the hinge, fixings and timber. I prefer to hobble the legs with a double-ended UCR l dreamt up.

    --
    Gadget

  5. #2715
    Senior Member Chigger's Avatar
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    Mar 2012
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    Garner, NC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kale Kale View Post
    I see that some people place their hinge all the way at the end of the 2x2s and some people place it farther down and then either taper the ends with an angle or leave the ends whole. Other than having to use limiting cord on the legs, is there a benefit to having the hinges in one place over the other? Build wise, having the hinges at the end seems easiest, but if there is a structural reason for placing them farther in, then I would choose to do it that way.

    Thoughts?

    If this was asked earlier in the thread, accept my apology, but I did not see it.
    Putting the hinge at the top gives you the ability to level your ridge pole on an non-level camp site.

  6. #2716
    Quote Originally Posted by Chigger View Post
    Putting the hinge at the top gives you the ability to level your ridge pole on an non-level camp site.
    I'm getting a bit hard of understanding ATM, would you mind explaining that?
    My ridge pole hangs under the hinge, off a loopie sling (adjustability built in).

    --
    Gadget

  7. #2717
    Member Kale Kale's Avatar
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    I think I know what he means. Went ahead and did a build today (pics once it is stained and finished) and I put the hinge at the top. Because the hinge is at the top, the posts do not touch each other when expanding or collapsing, so I can make the angle different on each leg. You could set one leg to have a wider angle than the others so that it rested farther down a hill, thus keeping the rest of the set up level if needed.

    This probably adds stress to the system, but gives you flexibility.

    I will post a picture tomorrow when I am staining it with the legs at different angles to show.

  8. #2718
    Senior Member Chigger's Avatar
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    Mar 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kale Kale View Post
    I think I know what he means. Went ahead and did a build today (pics once it is stained and finished) and I put the hinge at the top. Because the hinge is at the top, the posts do not touch each other when expanding or collapsing, so I can make the angle different on each leg. You could set one leg to have a wider angle than the others so that it rested farther down a hill, thus keeping the rest of the set up level if needed.

    This probably adds stress to the system, but gives you flexibility.

    I will post a picture tomorrow when I am staining it with the legs at different angles to show.
    What he said. My ridge pole is hanging on an eye bolt and connected to the hinge with a quick link. No adjusting there but none needed.

  9. #2719
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Belgium
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    I can't possibly read this ENTIRE thread, but I'll chime in anyways.

    I've bought the hardware for a turtledog stand last weekend and ordered the wood from my local woodshop (impregnated 2x2's each 7' long).
    The only thing I'm not 100% on are the zinc coated 8mm (5/16") shackles I bought, as there's no load rating on them that I know of.
    As far as my google-fu can tell me they should be good for 600kg's each, so I'm just going to try them and see how they hold up.

    Can't wait to build my new stand next weekend!

  10. #2720

    Join Date
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    U should get ones that are rated
    All rated items will have. Working load limit stamped on them
    Good luck


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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