Looking for a Low Cost Thread injector

[Ramblinrev]

In reality a straight stitch is all you _need_. Until relatively recently a sewing machine did not have a zig zag function at all and the world turned on its axis very nicely. Zig zag was added to the sewing machine around the late 60's when knits and double knits became widely available for home purchase.

If the needle broke and fell into the machine making it so the bobbin thread will not come up you do not want that one. I've have needles break and fall into the machine and cause no malfunction at all. In fact it is fairly common that happens. So there is something seriously wrong with that machine. To say it still "works" is not true. It may run but it obviously does not work.

Many of the 60's - 80's machines have plastic gears that you can not see. They are buried in the interior of the machine and can be accessed only by a complete disassembly of the machine. All the more reason, IMO, to avoid the craigslist/ebay machines in favor of a used machine from a dealership. They will have been serviced prior to the sale.

Ask around amongst your female relatives, neighbors and friends. I would be surprised if there was not a machine taking up space in a closet or attic you could get for the asking. Avoid the basement stored machines. As most basements are damp rust and corrosion can build up. Even if you can get the parts to move with oil the machine will still not perform as it was supposed to.

[the_gr8t_waldo]

you have the right idea...craig's list has proven to be very good to me. at 20-60$ you can inspect and assess the worthyness of a machine. if you turn the wheel and it moves without binding or hard spots, youre 75% there. make sure all parts needed to sew are included- you don't want or need to be hunting down parts , in order to use it. and of course plug it in and run- if the owner has now power available- pass, unless if youre looking for a parts donor

[Pag]

2nd what rev said about a dealership machine. One of the dealers near my house has several very nice machines for under $100. If you buy a machine from a dealer they typically will give a warranty for at least 30 days. If it fails after that you at least know who can fix it.

I actually just saw a 221 there for $160 and they give a 90 day warranty.

I do find zig zag a nice option but it is by no means necessary as rev pointed out, but then again reverse is also optional and a fairly recent development that has it's ups and downs as well. If all thing are equal zig zag is a benefit.

[DemostiX]

I'd suspect the quality old iron the dealer may have come from "trade ins." The real market value is between $10 and $50, but the dealer pleases the buyer of a $2000 serger or computerized ebroidering machine by offering $200-$300 as "trade in" instead of a discount. The dealer doesn't really have that much in the machine, no matter what he tells you. (Unless it is highly sought machine.)

The bad machines taken in this way get scrapped. The good or saleable ones get tuned and checked and put out for sale.

Necchi introduced ZZ to the retail market by 1947. The feature onslaught came in the 1950's, as RR suggest, with knit fabrics and stretch stitches to work with them. But, it is plastic in there that is dangerous, not ZZ. For example, there's a whole line of fine Husqvarna / Viking machines that survived their warrantee period, and then failed from the relatively short life of the plastic / nylon included among cams or gears. Bad lubricant / plastic combo is the story.

I am bemoaning the failure on a 1956 machine's single plastic worm / augur that only moves a lightly-loader lever to limit reverse stitch length so it is no longer than forward stitch length. The failure of that part limits stitch length, and it jams the machine. Otherwise the only plastic -- no exaggeration -- anywhere on on the machine are a plastic knob and a plastic button.

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To offer something new:

If seller claims and shows that the machine "works" and already has operated it with thread, you should insist on being shown that it will go in reverse as well as forward, slow as well as fast. And, if it is mechanical zig zag, do it narrow and wide, fast and slow, forward and reverse. And, vary the tension from right to wrong in both direction, just to prove that the tensioner works.

[Pag]

I just talked to the mechanic doing my machines 3 month maintenance and he reccomended the pfaff hobby line as the only new home use machine worth counter space. The basic model has a plastic exterior and all metal innards, or at least that was the claim. I did a quick look on the net and it looks like you can find them new fairly cheap so I'd assume a used one (dealer trade in) shouldn't command a high price. Entry level machines are commonly traded in for higher end machines and if this one is truly an all metal machine it might be worth looking at.

[SkunkApe]

When you say dealer, what am I looking for?

[Ramblinrev]

When you say dealer, what am I looking for?

Your best bet is an independent sewing machine repair shop. Some new machine retailers also have a repair service but it seems more and more of them are outsourcing that to a repair shop. Some repair shops also sell new machines but their primary business is repairing.

IMO the best way to scope out repair places is to walk in a schmooze. Tell the mechanic what you are doing and what you are looking for. Talk "shop" if you will. Ask about the best way to maintain a machine. Ask about brands. But do some homework so you sound like you know at least something about the subject. I have never yet met a mechanic who didn't enjoy schmoozing within reason of course.

They have their name on the line with a sale, particularly a used machine. They know the benefit of word of mouth advertising. Some of them will offer classes in how to use the machine. Often these are very reasonable and very useful in climbing the learning curve.

[SkunkApe]

Learning big words

[Clinton]

Craigslist, I just bought an industrial singer for $250 and an addition 200 for all the boxed she had of material. Be patients and look on there for a while. I have a singer zig zag 626 which does great for everything else. Note that heavier thread won't likely run on a standard sewing maching... The guttermans upholstery thread wouldn't work on it. But for hammocs a good polyester thread will be all you need.

[SkunkApe]

Craigslist, I just bought an industrial singer for $250 and an addition 200 for all the boxed she had of material. Be patients and look on there for a while. I have a singer zig zag 626 which does great for everything else. Note that heavier thread won't likely run on a standard sewing maching... The guttermans upholstery thread wouldn't work on it. But for hammocs a good polyester thread will be all you need.

That's badass. I don't have the room for something like that.