woopie sling question

**MAD777** · 06-09-2012, 15:30

Personally, I don't fiddle with locked anything. I simply taper my cord and bury it the appropriate length per manufacturer's recommendation. Then I hand see a few stitches into the buried portion.

All of the load bearing comes from the friction in the bury.
The stitching prevents the bury from accidentally pulling out when NOT under load.

**gmcttr** · 06-09-2012, 18:09

Originally Posted by Roe Ring

I get a little confused when trying to figure out which part of a locked brummel is doing the work. My understanding is that the locked bit physically stops the eye from opening under load, so the bury just tidies up the loose end. In order for the bury to take the strain, the lock must first fail. In which case your butt is heading downwards anyway! Have I got this right? How does the load transfer into the bury? The only way I can figure is if the bury is so short that the forces on the lock cause the strands to split along the length of the bury. This would cause both the lock and the bury to fail simultaneously. For info, I have received goods from both Dutch and Warbonnet in recent months with locked brummels and only 2 - 3" buries. Neither show any signs of failure. I've only made a few locked brummels for personal use but would appreciate some clarification from more experienced splicers.

Atb

Mark

See posts 4, 6 and 11. You could also use a plain brummel and lock stitching or no brummel and lock stitching and still have the same strength.

Again...the locked brummel or lock stitching is not designed to hold the weight. Their only designed function is to ensure that the bury cannot back out during no-load conditions. When loaded, the constrictor tightens on and grips the bury allowing very little sliding force on the lock. The strands of the lock do carry the weight, but not the sliding forces trying to open the eye.