Homemade quilt question??

[blackbishop351]

It needs to be a high thread count fabric, at least 300. Use downproof listed fabric if possible. Its not so much the down that finds its way out as it is the small feathers mixed in with the down. Be very careful with the fabric when using pins. The holes left by pins will leak the down and the feathers.

What about the holes left by sewing? Pin-holes aren't any bigger...

[headchange4u]

I have noticed that most bags tend to leak a little bit of down at the seams. I guess a very thin layer of seam sealer would stop that.

[stoikurt]

I think someone posted on here that ripstop DWR nylon should be downproof, but I can't remember who.

[headchange4u]

How do you know how many baffles to put in a quilt?

[Just Jeff]

Youngblood said something that got me thinking, too. He said that volume measurements are based on squares or rectangles. For example, if one baffle is 48" wide by 2" thick by 7" long, that's 672ci for that baffle. EXCEPT the baffle doesn't stay in that 48x2x7 shape...it elongates into a cylindrical shape, which throws off the volume calculation. Which is why quilts need to be overstuffed to avoid cold spots.

[headchange4u]

I would also say that size/width of the baffle could effect volume and loft height. I would think that wider baffles would be more flat while narrower baffles should give you a more cylindical shape. I'm trying to find that happy medium because more baffles = more sewing and weight. That's why I was asking if there is some way to figure the size of the baffle based on the size of the quilt.

I will overstuff any quilt I make. I have seen some down bags that look like the baffles could hold some more down. I think a baffle should look pretty full once it has had time to loft up.

Nothing looks worse than saggy, flat baffles. :P

[blackbishop351]

I would also say that size/width of the baffle could effect volume and loft height. I would think that wider baffles would be more flat while narrower baffles should give you a more cylindical shape. I'm trying to find that happy medium because more baffles = more sewing and weight. That's why I was asking if there is some way to figure the size of the baffle based on the size of the quilt.

I will overstuff any quilt I make. I have seen some down bags that look like the baffles could hold some more down. I think a baffle should look pretty full once it has had time to loft up.

Nothing looks worse than saggy, flat baffles. :P

I don't know about the baffle width thing. I think the biggest factor, like Jeff said, is probably the narrowing at the edges of the quilt caused by the way it hangs. And besides - if you figure the weight you want for each baffle individually, including overstuff, I really doubt it'll be a problem anyway.

[slowhike]

one conclusion that i came to looking at the down hammock i made w/ only three large chambers is that if you make a baffle (or down chamber) to wide, there is nothing to keep it flat. it will bulge out in the center of that chamber much thicker than you may have had in mind.
the netting baffle may only be 2" high, but if you over stuff, the center may be closer to 5" high.
and if you don't over stuff, the down has a large chamber to shift in... that is it will be thin at the top & fat at the bottom.
my thoughts only. ...tim

[Arkwater]

More small baffles require less overstuff to keep full.
exp: A baffle 2 x 10 gives a rectangle with an area of 20
that same baffle rounded gives an area of 45, a 125% increase.

A baffle 2x5 gives a rectangle with an area of 10.
That same baffle rounded gives an area of 15.6, a 56% increase.

Its a lot of trouble to make small baffles, but worth it in the end.

p.s. The sewing holes are filled with thread and are pulling against the fabric on the other side, so no down leaks there.

[Coffee]

One thing to watch is that your sewing needle is the proper size for your thread. Too big of a needle will leave extra room for the down.