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  1. #1
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    Roll Hemming a Cat Cut?

    I am trying to avoid adding the extra weight of binding tape or grosgrain ribbon to finish off the bottom edges of a DIY silnylon tarp with cat cut edges.

    The problem is with it being a cat cut, when I try to roll hem the edge, I'm no longer dealing with straight lines. Those curves don't want to cooperate with being folded to maintain an even 1/4" hem. How are others managing this? Does it make sense to do the first fold, pin it, then stitch it down before making the second fold to complete the roll hem and running the final seam?

    Thoughts and hints are welcome.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Pag's Avatar
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    If you fold it and stitch it first you will get a roping effect. There are several ways to do this but I'll stick with two.

    You can mark out your fold lines, 1/4"&1/2", and make slits up to but not crossing the 1/4" line. This will allow the fabric to pull apart for the first fold, reducing the amount you'll have to stretch the fabric on the second fold to get a flat hem. IMPORTANT not to cut past first fold line, or your hem will be pointless.

    Second way is sometimes frowned upon, and requires a serger. You can over lock the edge and the turn once and stitch, making sure to stitch through your over lock chain.

    Cat cut curves generally aren't that pronounced, so the roping effect is pretty minimal. I personally cut small slits where the curve is sharper and leave the gentle slope alone. It just makes it easier to stretch the second fold and get a flat hem.
    --If a cow laughs hard, does milk come out its nose?

  3. #3
    Senior Member streamline's Avatar
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    I always mark my fold lines and just work my way little by little around. I know that it isn't perfect but it is very close. After you finish no one will know the difference. I am actually bad about things being perfect and it doesn't even bug me when I finish.

    Believe this, after sewing that rolled edge you will never want to look at it again. lol

  4. #4
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    HAHA! I believe it! I already don't want to look at it again, and I haven't even sewn it yet.

    Pag, I hadn't even thought of making cuts to ease the curve. I'll give this a try and see how it works.

  5. #5
    New Member bushcrafter's Avatar
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    I am going to have to try that on my next tarp. That last one made me nuts for this very thing. Thanks for posting that info!
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  6. #6
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    I make little tiny wedge cuts in curves when I sew sleeves into garments, I think sewing the hem of a Cat. cut tarp would be the same principal. Just stops the binding of the fabric, so you do not end up having the weave distorted.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Roll a small portion at a time. No more than 3". Use a short stitch to make it easier to go around the curve. Ease, pull and push as needed.

    My problem with the slit method is you run into the same problem on the second roll. It is standard technique for garments but those areas don't usually take a lot of stress. Obviously I would not want to snip the second roll on a tarp. Work in very short section with short stitches.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

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  8. #8
    Senior Member Pag's Avatar
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    Yeah, second roll is still difficult, but easier with slits and the fabric inside the roll isn't structural or loaded at all really so slits don't matter as long as you don't slit through the fold line. Still is a good idea to take it slow though.
    --If a cow laughs hard, does milk come out its nose?

  9. #9
    Senior Member MAD777's Avatar
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    I roll my cat cuts in a two stage process. I roll once, then sew. Then, I roll again and then sew again. I roll only 2"-3" at a time. And, I keep the width of the hem to a minimum. I never cut slits in the fabric
    Mike
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  10. #10
    Senior Member turnerminator's Avatar
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    I used plenty of pins for the hems on my 1.5oz nylon cat tarp, every 4" I think I did.

    No roping and a neat job.

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