I just weighed both with amsteel continuous loops attached. the loops on the Dutch style were slightly longer.
Dutch type cinch buckle - 29gm
WB type cinch buckle - 17gm
I just weighed both with amsteel continuous loops attached. the loops on the Dutch style were slightly longer.
Dutch type cinch buckle - 29gm
WB type cinch buckle - 17gm
Big thank you for that.
Now, would I pay $25 (international shipping) to save 25grams... My head will hurt by the end of the day.
These days, I don't use a clip or 'biner. I just go around the tree and tie a bowline around the webbing to the hammock.
Most folks have no problem with using a marlin spike hitch + toggle with a tree strap + trucker's hitch setup yet a slipknot bowline IS a marlin spike hitch where the free end is inserted last instead of a toggle.
I don't know why I didn't think of this, but I'm glad that you did and posted it!!
I wanted to thank you and ask you a question.
Do you ever find yourself having to tie a knot behind the cinch rings to keep the webbing from slipping out?
I had that experience the first time I used my cinch rings last week, but they haven't slipped since with just 2 wraps and then through. I'm wondering if I really need to tie behind the rings after setting up my suspension...
Thanks!
My experience with SMC type descending rings is absolutely yes, a backup knot is needed.
I had read about the need for a backup knot but thought they were being too cautious as I had never had a slip and therefore never used a backup.
That changed one day when I set up my hammock, double checked the suspension as usual and sat down on it. BANG!...it sounded like someone fired a rifle and I hit the ground hard. I have no idea why, but the rings on one end just let loose. There was no damage to the suspension components. I quit using the ring buckle system shortly after that.
Ahhhhhh....ok, I see. I didn't hit the floor, but I noticed one side of my hammock was steadily and slowly getting lower. I got out and re-cinched it and tied a half-hitch behind the cinch buckles with the bight that was pulled through.
I think I'll stick with the cinch buckles for now, with the bight and half-hitch it just works perfectly for me.
Thanks again!!
I was considering this setup for a while because I didn't like the way the marlin spike was hard to adjust (I had whoopies, but I have a thing about having my whoopies connect as close to the tree as possible).
But I'm now using whoopies and dutch buckles, which I feel is the best of both worlds. The buckles are small enough that they can fit through the webbing loop, so I can even skip the 'biners if I want to go lighter.
Last edited by dfscott; 06-17-2014 at 10:04. Reason: added link to buckles for clarification
steel o-rings from a saddle or harness shop or old rings from a old saddle your going to discard, same with harnesses, no sense paying big bucks for climbers descender rings, I use brass d-ring and a biner with a 2" strap, any tree, any distance, any length of strap (S) I can adjust hand out, wake up water the weeds, cinch it up and zzzzzzzz OOOOAAAAHHHHH.
PS I have not had one come loose yet but I loop the tag end over pass another mid loop through to lock it and still have a quick release to adjust,
biners also hook to placed chain on old hanging spots, for years I used rope tied to d ring through Chane to hammock to d rings till the 8th rope pop now i use straps.
I get 1" rings at the hardware strore, Jax. ~.75$. There are 3 sizes, come in chrome or brass coating. Slightly heavier than aluminum, but lighter than clinch buckles.
good idea i got more 2" for .95 ea, thank you
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