"Every day above ground is a good day"
I just found these rings. They seem like essentially the same thing and have a breaking strength of 2000lbs.
apparently there are several things to take a look at... rope stiffness & the way it's attached to the rings, & the kind of webbing being used, as well as the way it's threaded through the rings.
it's possible that some rings may have a smoother, slicker finish than others & maybe that would play some part. but i suspect the the rope & attachment and the webbing are the main things to look at.
some people have had no problems w/ slipping, but others have.
here is a picture of my rings being pulled uneven by the larks head.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...5/P2250065.JPG
you can see the simple slip knot i used to stop it. even if i couldn't solve the slippage problem, using the slip knot (or what ever you call that) makes the rings the easiest adjustable system i've used yet. ...tim
I too will something make and joy in it's making
My rings are a little more even than that. I think I will wrap the spectra 4 times around the rings instead of 3 and see what happens. Or maybe I wont after looking again at Jeff's pictures of his. That is how uneven mine are. Now that I think about it, I would think it would be the norm for it to be a little uneven due to factors such as angle, force, etc.
Last edited by FanaticFringer; 02-25-2007 at 19:06.
"Every day above ground is a good day"
I have these stainless steel, SS, rings from Annapolis Performance Sailing:
http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d3000/e814.asp
Both the 1" ID and the 1.25" ID. Both are rated at 4,000 lbs force breaking strength and 1430 lbs force working strength.
I find that either will work. The 1" ID rings make using the 1" webbing more difficult since there isn't much clearance between the ring ID and the webbing. Pushing the webbing through the inside of the ring makes you realize how cramped it is inside the ring and also between the rings. The strapworks webbing I have, which is fairly stiff, is a real struggle to use with the rings. The load strap webbing from Harbor Freight is fairly easy to use with the 1" ID and above rings because it is really, really flexible and nice to work with and much lighter than the strapworks webbing. The 1.25" ID rings alleviate this problem somewhat, but they are still more difficult to work with than the 1.5" ID SMC AL descending rings. Also, each of the 1" ID APS SS rings weigh as much as 2 of the AL descending rings and, of course, the 1.25" ID SS rings are a bit heavier. Granted we're not talking pounds here, but tenths of an ounce.
Any of the three I have used, the SMC descending rings and the 2 APS SS rings work with with the right combination cord and webbing. The smaller the ID and the stiffer the webbing, the harder to work with and also the more prone to slipping in my experience.
The picture by slowhike illustrates how the larks head hitch can pull the rings unevenly. Granted the forces on the buckle by the webbing also tend to pull the rings uneven, but the larks head, in my experience aggravates the problem.
The webbing that slowhike is using seems to be very flexible and I find that helps greatly to reduce slippage.
slowhike - is that seat belt webbing? It looks like the color of most seat belts I am familiar with. 1" polyester seat belt webbing would really be ideal - very flexible and very strong with all of the advantages ofpolyester.
Fanatic Fringer - I wrap the line around the rings 3 times, then tie the bowline with a double overhand safety knot. I keep the wraps loose until the bowline is finished and then grab the line past the bowline and slowly pull the wraps tight. For me, that always pulls both parts of the line to the rings to an equal length. Once the wraps have been pulled tight and the hammock hung once, the wraps stay tight and the parts equal. I don't make the bowline very close to the rings. I give about 2 inchs or so of distance from the bowline to the rings. That makes it easy to re-loosen the wraps and pull tight evenly again if necessary.
the webbing in that shot is 1" tubular from the climbing section.
i bought that to use at home until i got some more of ed's 1" to use.
i had been using the 1" poly webbing from wal-mart, but i broke it a couple times & fortunantly saw the fraying or the beginning of a tear before it broke on a couple other pieces.
i have some of ed's 1" now, but i may also try out some of the harbor freight webbing too.
the tubular is way heavier than i want to take backpacking. and because it's so heavy, slick, & flexible, it's own weight (that is, the extra hanging down from the rings) pulls it to one side of the rings causing it to slip.
I too will something make and joy in it's making
How about using a Prusik Knot? That might keep the rings from shifting and the webbing from slipping.
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