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  1. #21
    Senior Member Roadrunnr72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    Others have pointed out the method to make a locked brummel with only one end of the line, but it is also easy to open up the amsteel enough to pass the first fixed eye through while making the second.

    I usually pass the entire adjustable loop and bury through the amsteel to finish the final end with a fixed eye/locked brummel when making a whoopie sling.
    +1, I have done this using zing-it, now that was fun. Easier with amsteel...........RR
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  2. #22
    Senior Member fallkniven's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    It sure does. I generally use a nail set to open it up because I have them and they have a nice taper. A ballpoint pen, etc. could be used.

    Open rope with a smoothly pointed tool.

    Attachment 46608

    Enlarge opening with tool of your choice.

    Attachment 46609

    What it looks like.

    Attachment 46610

    Plenty of room to pass the eye through.

    Attachment 46611

    Same spot in zing it smoothed back out to illustrate that no damage was done.

    Attachment 46612
    How about that. I'll be trying that tonight. Thanks!

  3. #23
    New Member Cubanredneck's Avatar
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    nice tutorial

  4. #24
    Senior Member DRobertson's Avatar
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    I never measure my amsteel. I just eyeball it and cut. (except for whoopie slings) seems to work great for me!
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  5. #25
    Senior Member Suede's Avatar
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    I have been making some NC ridge lines this weekend using a locked brummel to a Dutch stinger and burying the other end. I made them 18' long because I sometimes get into a situation where I don't have enough cordage to go from the d ring around the tree and back to the stinger. This seems like a good application of a zing it doggone as an extender. Instead of the extra 6' of line, I will make a 3' dogbone, larks headed to the d ring with the other end clipped in the stinger. I would think you could do the same to extend your straps by larks heading the dogbone to the strap loop and put a Dutch hook at the other end with a locked brummel.
    John aka Suede

  6. #26
    New Member MBennett's Avatar
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    I've too never measured my dog bones, just go with a "good" length for what I plan on using it for. I've always have managed to be able to feed a finished eyelet through the amsteel in order to create the opposite fixed eyelet.

  7. #27
    cougarmeat's Avatar
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    I ran into the same problem mentioned by the SilvrSurfr - that the dog bones, especially if you are going to do a technically correct bury - end up longer than a continuous loop. That puts the ring I use at the ends further away from the hammock itself. That means trees have to be further apart and I have to pay more attention to make sure both rings are covered by the tarp. I really like the neatness of the single strand of a dog bone coming off the hammock and I figure I can make a few half hitches behind the gather to take up extra length.

    Since I started making my own AmSteel loops and slings, I have always pulled the eye of one finished end though the hole on the other end to make a locked brummel. But somewhere on the calendar (rainy day project) I'll learn that "access to only one end for line" trick.

    I got my tool kit at Joanns fabric store and a music shop. At Joanns I bought some knitting (non-sewing) needles. I think size #5 for 7/64th Amsteel and set of smaller ones for 2.2mm and 1.75mm. I also bought an Awl for widening the hole and some kind of "puller". At the music store I picked up some free scrap guitar wire. I have two wire sizes, one for 7/64ths and one for the smaller stuff. I bend the wire in a tight loop and use it as a puller too. I use the needle to make the initial hole because it pushes the strands apart; then I widen with the awl. If I just use the awl, its point is so sharp that it goes between the fibers of the strands instead of just parting the strands.

  8. #28
    Member SteveS's Avatar
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    SilvrSurfr and Designer are correct. I finally got around to making one of these for a new rig. These end up longer than a simple continuous loop. With the eyes needed to make these useful, I ended up with a 14" dogbone, vs. 12" continuous loop.

    You need at lest another inch in the middle to properly complete the bury, so 13" end to end between the eyes. I also ignored the size of the eyes. A one inch eye is just a bit too small, 1.5" is about the smallest you would really want at 3"(x2). This requires 7" more total, so 35" is more realistic.

    1/8 Amsteel goes for about $0.30 a foot today, so we're talking about less than $0.15 difference between the two. Cost is not the driving factor.

    Pick your trade off:
    Dogbone: Longer hang, less Amsteel.
    Loop: More Amsteel, shorter hang.

  9. #29
    Member wideguy's Avatar
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    If length is a big issue but you would otherwise prefer the dogbone for whatever reason, couldn't you loop it through your channel a second ( or even third) time before clinching off through the second loop?

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