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  1. #1
    Senior Member R3l@x's Avatar
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    Trip report: 6 days, 100 miles in Maine on the Allagash River

    My brother and I decided we wanted to do a weeklong trip and we wanted it to be remote. We ended up choosing the Allagash River in Maine. It's around 11 hours to drive to Fort Kent Maine where we started the trip. We arrived in the evening, had dinner in a local restaurant across from the border crossing to Canada and had a good night’s sleep.

    I'm going to include a link to my photo album, I couldn’t pick out just a few picks to post. I also wanted to note that I left all EXIF data with GPS coordinates in the pictures. Some of the GPS readings may be incorrect depending on how long the camera was off but most are close if not spot on. I've also included pics showing the route taken and a link to a PDF map of the area that makes it easier to follow along.

    Next morning we arrived at our Guides location which was 40 minutes from the hotel. We loaded our kayaks on the van and started another 3 1/2 hour drive on logging roads to our starting point at Chamberlain Lake. From Chamberlain Lake we paddled until we had a portage at Lock Dam to Eagle Lake. We stayed at Pillsbury Island campsite the first night completing 15 miles on the lakes our first day. I was using my new 11' Dangerbird and Hammockgear custom 40 degree quilt set with one of their Cuben 4 season tarps. Everything worked great and I have to say I'm very happy with the hammock, quilts and tarp. I'd like to thank Adam and Randy for working with me on these custom items. They made my trip warm, dry and comfortable.

    On day two we set out to find the tramway/train location on Eagle Lake. At one point the tramway and trains were used to transport logs from one lake to another. Now there just sitting there in the woods. If you do this trip DO NOT paddle into the waterway like we did. The mud was past our knees and we had our water shoes sucked off a number of times before we got out. There is a trail on the left leading in if you beach on that side. From the tramway site we paddled across Eagle lake to Round pond into Churchill Lake. Day two was another 15+ mile day ending up at High Bank campsite. Another really nice site we passed was Scofield Point. We just weren't ready to stop for the day and High Bank is known for great views. We had our favorite meal of the trip which was Packit Gourmet's Texas state fair chili with onions and green peppers added in. All the Packit Gourmet and Hawk vittles meals were good but this was great!

    On Day three we finished off Churchill Lake seeing another moose in the morning and Heron Lake to make it to Churchill Dam. Here we had our gear transported for $10 down below the class 2 rapids, had time to visit the Churchill depot history center and then headed out on what I think was a 4 mile stretch of rapids. Nothing scary but it was a ton of fun and enough to fill our yaks with water so we had to stop and empty them out. We had spray skirts but decided not to use them because it didn't look that bad. If you do this use a spray skirt, it will save time and keep you dryer :-) You can pick your gear up at Bissonnette Bridge, load back up and continue on the river. We completed Umsaskis Lake and moved on to Grey Brook campsite. I finally had time to take some pics of the Dangerbird under the 4 season tarp and with the quilts setup. Another long day ended with rain coming that night into the next morning.

    Day four we continued on Long Lake in the rain and through Harvey pond with another portage at Long Lake falls. This one like the first was a matter of a few 100 feet and we didn't unload the yaks to get them around. It stopped raining by late morning but I did learn that my Packa was great for kayaking with it over the vest and venting in the wind as we paddled across the lake. We had slow moving river after the portage for a while until we got to round pond. At the big tree take the left branch. It's faster and was deep enough if you stay to the right. If you do this trip you’ll know what I mean by the big tree when you get there  We continued on until we reached Croque Brook campsite which is the only place I didn't use a hammock. No tree's unless I wanted to go back near the outhouse and setup on a game trail so I decided to try a tent after years of hammock only camping. The pain shooting up my spine after a couple hours on the G.G. pad that I brought just in case convinced me not to do this a second time. On the bright side around dusk I was headed to the picnic table and could feel something running through the woods behind our site. My brother thought I was pounding a log on the picnic table when I was really shifting back and forth behind it waiting to see which way to jump if the moose came out of the woods. Later we figured that if I had setup my hammock I would have been a flag on the moose as it ran through so I guess someone was looking out for me. Mental note: game trails in MA no big deal, in ME steer clear with tents and hammocks :-O

    Day five I woke my brother up at first light to see the moose about 10 yards away walking up the stream in front of our tent. We then packed up and decided to get an early start to see what would be out on the river. On the van ride in I saw more wildlife than in 200 miles on the A.T. including a moose but this morning was going to be even better. Headed down the river by 6:30 or 7 we ran into another six moose before we stopped at the Michaud farm ranger station. Here we read a weather report which stated the river was at 520 CFM after the rain. Most of the trip the water was at 420 CFM. Day five we pushed hard and continued down the river until we reached our 1/3 mile portage at the falls. This time we emptied the yaks and moved everything around to continue down the river until we reached the Big Brook North campsite. After drying our gear out again and eating for around 3 hours we got a good night’s sleep with a little rain coming in during the night. By morning the sky had cleared at was another beautiful day.

    Day six had a mix of slow moving river with some nice rapids mixed in. We only had a few hours before reaching the end of the Allagash waterway and our exit location which we reached shortly after 10 a.m. finishing the trip a day early and doing 100 miles in six days. From there we loaded up the car and started our 11+ hour ride home.

    A few things I'd like to note. This was my first long trip in a kayak having only done a few weekend trips at Saranac Lake so I wasn't sure about what I'd need or should bring for a long river/lake trip like this. Have as little as possible strapped to the outside of your kayak. Winds would catch my pad and I'd start to veer to one side until I figured out what was going on and started to compensate. The Packa rain jacket worked out great covering everything and still letting me vent when we were doing 4+ MPH on the lakes. We had way too much food. For a hiking trip like this my food intake would have been way up by day three. This never seemed to happen and doing the high mileage days we didn't stop for lunch. We just paddled until we hit camp and then snacked for a few hours until it was time for supper. Next, you can't have too many dry bags. I had a half dozen but when everything was wet from rain I wished I had a few more to separate the wet and kind of wet from the dry. Also many small bags are easier to pack than a few large ones. This brings me to the kayak. The Tsunami 12 1/2 foot was just big enough and a great weekend size but if I was going to do more week long trips I'd go with my brother’s 14 1/2 foot model. His also floated higher and although heavier did better in the shallow waters by a small margin.

    I'm not a very eloquent writer but I hope between the trip report and the photos you can get an idea of how awesome this trip was! I highly recommend it if you can get the time. It's a whole different ballgame when you don't see anyone for days and you hear NOTHING but nature. Not even a truck on a distant highway. I've got some ghost stories that will be better told at the next group hang instead of my trying to write them down but strange things sometimes happen out there...

    Photo link:

    http://photobucket.com/Allagash2012

    Password is Allagash2012

    Map PDF
    http://www.katahdinoutfitters.com/al...way-rv1996.pdf
    Attached Images Attached Images
    --
    John

  2. #2
    SilvrSurfr's Avatar
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    Nice trip report. How were the bugs this time of year?

    Also, I noticed you have your tarp ridgeline over the tarp, and in one pic it looked kind of saggy. I tried my CF tarp that way and could never get a taut pitch, which is why I switched to ridgeline-under-the-tarp. Did you have any issues with that?

  3. #3
    Senior Member raiffnuke's Avatar
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    nice trip report! Thanks for sharing all of your pictures and taking us along for the ride!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Redoleary's Avatar
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    Great report and pix. I was seriously considering a trip on the Allagash but the huge drive from michigan is what scared me away. Looks like a beautiful area. Thanks for sharing.
    Good luck,
    RED

    My Youtube Channel

    Deep peace of the running wave to you.
    Deep peace of the flowing air to you.
    Deep peace of the quiet earth to you.
    Deep peace of the shining stars to you.
    Deep peace without end to you.
    adapted from - ancient gaelic runes

  5. #5
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    Nice trip. We had planned on it this year but life interfered. Maybe next year. Thanks for sharing!

  6. #6
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    Excellent report and pic's, thanks for posting!
    "yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift---thats why its called a present" - Master Oogway
    It's always best if your an early riser!

  7. #7
    Senior Member MedicineMan's Avatar
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    What a way to see Maine! Trip of a lifetime-that many days in the woods unsupported, that is awesome. I loved the pics of the abandoned relic trains, very impressive.
    What was the longest portage? Could you have used wheels for the kayaks? Agreed the views from High Bank were beautiful....nice beaches on the trip too. Good to see you use all that wonderful gear too. The second moose shot very nice.
    Now those rapids/falls--I'm surprised you didn't run/shoot over it getting ready for the Tough Muddy
    Also very cool you got to do this with your brother. I've met that cat and he's a good man-tell him I'm jealous of the trip; I'm the only one left of 4 sons so enjoy your time with him when you can.
    Thanks again for the right up and the photobucket tour.
    I'll put the Allaghash Wilderness Waterway on my fantasy list.

  8. #8
    Senior Member mbnow's Avatar
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    looks like you had an incredible trip R3L@x. Nice photos.
    I am very jealous, of all the times i have been to maine i have NEVER seen a moose. what the....
    I think that trip should be a group hang next summer.

    Looks like you couldnt convert your brother to hanging? he'll come around.

    Nice tarp by the way..

    matt.
    .

    "The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, and wiser people so full of doubt" -BR-.

  9. #9
    Senior Member MedicineMan's Avatar
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    R3l@X, just remembered something

    you and i have the same kayak and the most i've lived out of mine is 3 days, you really packed smart to get that much food in there!

  10. #10
    Senior Member R3l@x's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone for the great feedback. It was a great experience. Sorry for the delayed replies. Work is brutal right now.

    Quote Originally Posted by SilvrSurfr View Post
    Nice trip report. How were the bugs this time of year?

    Also, I noticed you have your tarp ridgeline over the tarp, and in one pic it looked kind of saggy. I tried my CF tarp that way and could never get a taut pitch, which is why I switched to ridgeline-under-the-tarp. Did you have any issues with that?

    The bugs weren't that bad. I brought 30% deet and Permethrin treated cloths and used the deet sparingly. The no see ums were still out but the black flies were gone. On day 5 something did wack me in camp and I had welts on one leg for a week so I think it's a good idea to be prepared.

    I've used an over the ridgeline method for years now but this was the second trip with the cuben tarp and I'm still getting used to it. I had no issues with the rain but it was a little noisy one night. If I wasn't so tired I might have played more with it but we were pushing and I didn't really have it in me to experiment. Our group hang on Mount Greylock is coming up and I'll play more in a couple weeks.

    Quote Originally Posted by MedicineMan View Post
    What a way to see Maine! Trip of a lifetime-that many days in the woods unsupported, that is awesome. I loved the pics of the abandoned relic trains, very impressive.
    What was the longest portage? Could you have used wheels for the kayaks? Agreed the views from High Bank were beautiful....nice beaches on the trip too. Good to see you use all that wonderful gear too. The second moose shot very nice.
    Now those rapids/falls--I'm surprised you didn't run/shoot over it getting ready for the Tough Muddy
    Also very cool you got to do this with your brother. I've met that cat and he's a good man-tell him I'm jealous of the trip; I'm the only one left of 4 sons so enjoy your time with him when you can.
    Thanks again for the right up and the photobucket tour.
    I'll put the Allaghash Wilderness Waterway on my fantasy list.
    The longest portage was around 1/3 mile. There were some sections that wheels would work but then it got steep and rocky and the carry would be the best method. I thought about shooting the falls for 1.5 seconds, then decided to run the trail with my Tsunami on one shoulder instead I'm doing the ToughMudder training weekly with the team and this trip killed my shoulders. It did get me ready for being wet for extended periods though

    Doing this with my brother was one of the best parts for me and I told him so. Growing up you take siblings for granted and as you get older you appreciate them more right around the time that it get's harder to do things with them. Now we're looking at completing this trip in sections http://www.northernforestcanoetrail.org/
    Sort of like the A.T. of the waterways your welcome to join us on one of these trips if you want M.M. Always a pleasure to chat you up about gear

    I have video of us around 10 yards from one moose that didn't really mind us being around. We were being very careful but it was a narrow section of the river an we were floating by. One of these days I'll edit the video and post, I just have to find the time. I'm glad everyone enjoyed the pics and report.
    --
    John

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