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  1. #1
    New Member IADC43's Avatar
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    Noob would like opinions on suspension idea

    Heres what I am asking/thinking I'd try.

    1" straps to the anchor, 1/8" amsteel 12, carabiner each end, descender ring w/4 wraps, hammock larkshead with amsteel loop (144" total length, measuring from end of each loop), ridgeline length set with the loop knot locked into a marlin spike hitch to allow it to be adjustable (80% seems to put it at 119")

    Opinions on if it will work out, or will I fall to an unpleasant death?
    Should the loops on the hammock be shorter, they seem really long.
    The lag bolt rings are 84" off the floor, 18' apart.
    I weigh 230, 5'11" tall

    Attachment 43397
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    Matt





    43

  2. #2
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    Sorry, your question is kind of confusing, which is probably why there's not a lot of follow posts.

    You could just run your fixed end of amsteel loop through the sewn closed end of you hammock and up to your carabiner. You don't need the rings at all. You could run your ridgeline around the end of the amsteel where it comes out of the hammock, so that you could make it adjustable. Carabiner that to your lag bolt. Look at this and note the amsteel loops on two of them: http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...mageuser=13594


    Out in the field, put your straps around a tree (keeps the amsteel from digging into the tree and damaging it) and then run a marlin spike in it. You can put the amsteel loop around the stick in the marlin spike. By doing this, you'll eliminate the weight of the ring and the carabiner on each end.

    As far as in you room, you might not get a good hang if you don't get the 30% angle of your lines coming off your lag bolts. If it's more than 30% or way less than, you won't get the proper sag. The reason for the fixed ridgeline is that it can get the same hang out in the field almost every time.

    Check out page 3 on this review for a photo: http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/a...3&d=1350864753


    Watch Shug's videos for a great primer!
    Last edited by Boomer; 12-16-2012 at 02:23.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Yes it should work if the lag bolts hold. Is the bolt on the other end also in a corner, if not I would be worried. Yes the loops larksheaded to the hammock should probably be shorter, especially in the woods with trees closer than 18'.

  4. #4
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    How long are the lag "bolt" rings? i.e. have you calculated how far into the stud they are not counting the sheetrock? I'm assuming they're actually self tapping lag screws instead of lag bolts, unless you have a nut on the other end of the screw.

    If they're securely anchored, which is the trick really, it should be fine. We used lag screws for my wife's aerial rig in the basement. They do doubles lyra routines, drops and everything on them, but I put up reinforcements in the floor joists and we researched the weight ratings on the eye screws we used.

    I'd actually be more worried about how well the framing is nailed in if you aren't in a corner on both sides. You never know how good of a job the carpenter's apprentice who put up that particular stud did.

  5. #5
    New Member IADC43's Avatar
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    Yep, lag screws. 3/8" x 2" or so into the studs. They won't pull out and being into corner studs, they won't affect the stud strength.

    Late last night I shortened the amsteel loops for the hammock by half their length. They were just too long and the ridge line was so far away from me that when I reached up, only my fingertips would touch it unless I stretched.
    This brought the hammock to 122" and I set the ridge line to 101" and it seems better.
    I'm not as concerned about trapping the hammock loop ends into the marlin spike hitch as I was. The 1/8" amsteel should have more than enough strength and not shear, even after using those hitches inline. Right?
    I used the descender rings to adjust the line to position the hammock.
    ------
    Matt





    43

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