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  1. #41
    Senior Member SGT Rock's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Maryville, TN
    Hammock
    Argon X90 Experimental hammock
    Tarp
    7'x9' cuben tarp
    Insulation
    Pads and quilts
    Suspension
    Kevlar + dynaglide
    Posts
    2,178
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    92
    Quote Originally Posted by FireInMyBones View Post
    I just received some Mule Tape today and I'm waiting for two more whoopie hooks to come in. I've already got some dynaglide whoopies made so this is going to be great.

    Three questions, SGT Rock:
    1. Is the loop hosting the hook that replaces the Dutch clip a continuous loop of dynaglide or is it something else knotted?
    Continuous loop of dynaglide. I show doing it in the video. Then larks head that loop to one of the end loops on the mule tape.
    2. How do you get your tarp to be so light weight (dimensions, ridgeline, guylines...)?
    I did a video about building a cuben tarp, one of my most popular videos which shows how I make my tie outs on the tarp. The tarp made in the video is larger than my tarp. My tarp is 7' x 9'. Before you go make a 9' long tarp though, know that my hammock ridge is 7' long, so my tarp exceeds the ends of my hammock by a foot on each end which is the minimum I recommend. The materials:

    Cuben is the 0.51 ounce cuben fiber from zpacks: http://www.zpacks.com/materials.shtml

    The lines are made from 1.25mm zline from zpacks: http://www.zpacks.com/accessories/spectra_cord.shtml
    I use black for the ridge lines and yellow for the side pull outs so I know what I am grabbing when setting up. For the ridge lines I use 12.5' of line at both end of the ridge (I quit using continuous ridgelines) and at the end of each one I have a ti dutch hook.
    For the side tie outs I have 8 lines that are 6.25' long each. I put a permanent loop at the end of each one so I can stick a stake through it then tighten at the tarp with a prusik that attaches each line.
    To prusik the lines to the tarp pull outs I am using 200lb test fishing line.

    Pull outs are made using 3/16" flat cord from zpacks: http://www.zpacks.com/accessories/spectra_cord.shtml

    3. Do you still use your pole mod for your tarp and is it working well?
    I slightly changed my system. The center is still the same piece of shark-bite tube. I now have the ti dutch hooks on the center pull outs of the tarp so I can hook them onto pre-positioned loops on my hiking poles made from 200lb test fishing line. I got tired of the clinking ti hooks on my poles so I put them on the tarp now. I still carry the pole mod and use it when appropriate. I prefer porch mode whenever I can get away with it, and use my pole mod when I see a storm coming and will not use porch mode, or in winter when I want the tarp down to help hold in some heat. Then I also close the ends of the tarp off with the "flaps".
    NO SNIVELING!
    www.hikinghq.net - Hiking H.Q.
    www.bmtguide.com - the BMT Thru Hiker's Guide

  2. #42
    Senior Member FireInMyBones's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Piedmont, SC
    Hammock
    Bonefire™ Bridge
    Tarp
    Bonefire™ Shadow
    Insulation
    Bonefire™ UQ
    Suspension
    Bonefire™ Deluxe
    Posts
    2,795
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    46
    Quote Originally Posted by SGT Rock View Post
    Continuous loop of dynaglide. I show doing it in the video. Then larks head that loop to one of the end loops on the mule tape.
    Gotcha. I watched the video a while ago and had completely forgot if you'd shown that. I suppose I could have re-watched it.

    My tarp is 7' x 9'.
    My tarp is 10'x8'. I use a zing-it CRL w/ a Dutch fly and hook. I used to use the two separate pieces, but for now found I like the CRL. Guylines are 1.2 tech line from DIY Gear Supply and side pull outs are 3/32" shockcord. I use DIY snake skins that weigh ~11g each. Total 7.95oz I wouldn't mind getting that a little lower. I'll PM you some other questions I have about your tarp set up.

    I slightly changed my system... I still carry the pole mod and use it when appropriate. I prefer porch mode whenever I can get away with it, and use my pole mod when I see a storm coming and will not use porch mode...
    I do like porch mode the best, but I have been thinking of switching to a pole mod like yours instead of using side pull outs.
    -Jeremy "Brother Bones"
    Quote Originally Posted by FLRider View Post
    ...he's a mountain goat crossed with a marathoner.

  3. #43
    Senior Member SGT Rock's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Maryville, TN
    Hammock
    Argon X90 Experimental hammock
    Tarp
    7'x9' cuben tarp
    Insulation
    Pads and quilts
    Suspension
    Kevlar + dynaglide
    Posts
    2,178
    Images
    92
    Quote Originally Posted by FireInMyBones View Post
    My tarp is 10'x8'. I use a zing-it CRL w/ a Dutch fly and hook. I used to use the two separate pieces, but for now found I like the CRL. Guylines are 1.2 tech line from DIY Gear Supply and side pull outs are 3/32" shockcord. I use DIY snake skins that weigh ~11g each. Total 7.95oz I wouldn't mind getting that a little lower. I'll PM you some other questions I have about your tarp set up.
    No problem, or ask them on the board, someone else may be wondering the same thing. Sometimes I am not sure what needs explaining for folks...

    10'x8' is a good tarp size. If I had a bunch of cash I would probably make a slightly larger winter cuben hammock about that size. I kept trying the CRL thinking it was a great idea, but in practice I found I preferred separate lines for each end already all connected to the tarp. Gredemeer showed me a cool way to connect lines this spring, so I switched to that. Here is an illustration: http://theultimatehang.com/2012/06/p...-prusik-knots/

    It is as adjustable for me as a CRL, except without the extra bit of line between the prusiks. More usable line length for the length of line since there isn't extra in the center being used.

    I don't use shock cord with CF, I found it unnecessary since CF doesn't change when it is set up line sil-nylon. But the same prusik connectors for the side tie outs work great since I can adjust them at the tarp end from under the tarp if I need to. I found elastic to be heaver per inch than line, so I eliminate it whenever possible.

    For my tarp storage I decided ventilation was a good idea, so I have been using a 5.9 gram bag made from left over nanoseeum net. I sometimes bring it and sometimes don't because I just stick the tarp in an outside mesh pocket on my pack.
    NO SNIVELING!
    www.hikinghq.net - Hiking H.Q.
    www.bmtguide.com - the BMT Thru Hiker's Guide

  4. #44
    Senior Member Risk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Beavercreek, OH
    Hammock
    DIY 4x9 1.1 oz ripstop (5.3 oz)
    Tarp
    ZPack Cuben Hex
    Insulation
    DIY TQ, DIY 3/4 UQ
    Suspension
    DG UCRs, Mule Tape
    Posts
    226
    Images
    15
    I tried back stitching like SGT Rock suggests. I used normal weight Wally World poly thread and found that the thread had broken in multiple places after hanging in it overnight - I used black thread, so it was easy to see. I used a pair of tweezers to remove the broken threads and then back stitched with heavy weight Gutterman poly. I decided to use black to see if this also broke. Nope... This was what I needed.

    The display in our Jo-Ann's does not have outdoor upholstery thread like SGT Rock suggests, but they did have "heavy weight" in spools with 100 meters of thread.
    Rick (Risk) Website: http://www.imrisk.com
    I cook. I sew. I walk. I lead. I hang. I write. I play.
    Author of "A Wildly Successful 200-Mile Hike"
    http://www.amazon.com/Wildly-Success.../dp/B00COCI5HW

  5. #45
    Senior Member MAD777's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    White Mountains, New Hampshire
    Hammock
    DIY, WBBB & Switchback
    Tarp
    HG cuben,OES Spinn
    Insulation
    DIY 3/4 UQ/TQ, UGQ
    Suspension
    Dynaglide / Dutch
    Posts
    10,950
    Images
    39
    Before backstitching the bury, I hang the hammock (using care not to pull the bury out) and weight it. That "shifts" the bury into it's final position, then I backstitch. If you backstitch while the bury is relaxed, before loading it, there will be some shifting that could break the threads.

    This reminds me of times long ago when I would load a truck for moving. I would drive half a block down the road and slam the breaks. Then I wouldn't have to worry about that load shifting for the remainder of the trip!
    Mike
    "Life is a Project!"

  6. #46
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    IN
    Hammock
    WBRR, Lots of DIY
    Tarp
    MacCat; Cloudburst
    Insulation
    Lynx, HG T/UQ, AHE
    Suspension
    Varies
    Posts
    8,464
    Quote Originally Posted by MAD777 View Post
    Before backstitching the bury, I hang the hammock (using care not to pull the bury out) and weight it...
    Great idea.

    Also bury stitching is not pulled tight like stitching cloth. It needs some slack to move with the rope.
    Last edited by gmcttr; 01-12-2013 at 20:59.

  7. #47
    New Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Athens, GA
    Posts
    10
    A note on the craft mat. If you go to Hobby Lobby, the ones in the drafting area (near paint and pens) are 3x less expensive than the ones in the sewing/quilting area.

  8. #48
    Senior Member FireInMyBones's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Piedmont, SC
    Hammock
    Bonefire™ Bridge
    Tarp
    Bonefire™ Shadow
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    Bonefire™ UQ
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    Bonefire™ Deluxe
    Posts
    2,795
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    46
    I ended up using the Mule Tap suspension system with my Endura (white dynaglide) whoopie slings this weekend. I loved them. Easy to set up. My lightest straps ever. No tree damage. Another great idea for us ultra lighters.
    -Jeremy "Brother Bones"
    Quote Originally Posted by FLRider View Post
    ...he's a mountain goat crossed with a marathoner.

  9. #49
    New Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Apex, NC
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by MAD777 View Post
    Before backstitching the bury, I hang the hammock (using care not to pull the bury out) and weight it. That "shifts" the bury into it's final position, then I backstitch. If you backstitch while the bury is relaxed, before loading it, there will be some shifting that could break the threads.

    This reminds me of times long ago when I would load a truck for moving. I would drive half a block down the road and slam the breaks. Then I wouldn't have to worry about that load shifting for the remainder of the trip!
    I love this idea. If I was going to do this without actually putting the UCR on the hammock, about how many pounds do you think it should be loaded with? I'd like to just hang a weight on the system to get the bury to settle. Then backstitch the bury.

    Thoughts?

  10. #50
    Senior Member OldNWay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    SE Pa
    Hammock
    Hexon1.0
    Tarp
    SP Mt Wilderness
    Insulation
    HG TQ UQ
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    CL/Marlinspike
    Posts
    245
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    7
    I made a few of these out of Zing It for my tarp. I can appreciate the convenience but after attaching them to the tarp I could only snug the line so far so I would pull the inner line against the outer line. By doing this I noticed stress and stretching of the outer lines braiding. How do you get a taught line without causing what is obviously weakening of the line. Any input would be appreciated. Thank You

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