Keeping continuous filament together

[Narwhalin]

I have some climashield that I ordered from thruhiker forever ago, and I would like to make a quilt with it. I plan on folding over the insulation to layer it several times. I will be shaping the quilt differentially to avoid crushing the insulation. My question is this:

The method I have read about to keep the insulation from sliding around is to sew loops all over with yarn. Is this the best method, or are there alternatives to consider?

[warbonnetguy]

i just sew it to the perimeter, and attach extra layers to that one with quilt loops around the perimeter only, if you go this route, you might want to roll it rather than stuff it.

[Narwhalin]

Thanks! I will probably give this a try unless anyone else can come up with anything they would like to add...

This approach sounds super easy! And, if the insulation starts to shift around on me, I can always add the quilting loops at that time...

[Raven-US]

I've noticed a couple of references to roll rather than stuff UQs. What is the guideline on that? If you do numerous yarn loops (a la KAQ design) does that facilitate stuffing? Or should you always roll a non-baffled quilt?

[Cannibal]

I've noticed a couple of references to roll rather than stuff UQs. What is the guideline on that? If you do numerous yarn loops (a la KAQ design) does that facilitate stuffing? Or should you always roll a non-baffled quilt?

Well part of the KAQ design calls for sewing all layers of the insulation to the perimeter; that holds them in place pretty good in conjunction with the quilt loops. The style they are talkin is to only sew one layer to the shell, then loop the other layers together. That way you can add or remove insulation. Stuffing tends to screw with the layers in the second method, which is why they get rolled.

[Take-a-knee]

I've noticed a couple of references to roll rather than stuff UQs. What is the guideline on that? If you do numerous yarn loops (a la KAQ design) does that facilitate stuffing? Or should you always roll a non-baffled quilt?

You should always roll a synthetic sleeping bag or quilt. Lay it out flat, start at the foot and roll it lengthwise, take the resulting tube and insert it into a stuffsack and jam the rest inside. When you remove it, grab large chunks and pull so as not to place a lot of stress on any one area and tear the batts. Obviously the smaller you cram it the sooner it'll lose loft and start to tear. Ray Jardine says all synthetic batts need quilt loops. He said the quilts he made without them didn't last long.

[Graybeard]

I stuff my down bag into a 35 liter ultralight drybag with a Hypalon air-tight closure, then inside a more rugged stuffsack. That's a very light stuffing; the result is 12" diameter by nearly two foot long. I then tie it into the canoe where it stays on portages. That provides an additional hundred pounds of flotation if I should capsize.
b

[fin]

I stuff my down bag into a 35 liter ultralight drybag with a Hypalon air-tight closure, then inside a more rugged stuffsack. That's a very light stuffing; the result is 12" diameter by nearly two foot long. I then tie it into the canoe where it stays on portages. That provides an additional hundred pounds of flotation if I should capsize.
b

Good tip - I have a very similar method, except I tie leave it in my Duluth Pack and tie the pack to the canoe.

Dry sacks with a Hypalon roll-top enclosure and an air release valve are the bomb, but don't provide the same flotation.

[trail_geek]

I just finished a Ray Jardine Quilt (over quilt) and did a line of stitching around the edge and then about 25 loops tied with a straigh knot to hold the insulation in place. This seems to work well and keeps the insulation evenly distributed between the layers of nylon.

Cheers