Momentum 0.9 any tricks?

[Mrprez]

I think the static helps when stuffing the down! On the jacket I made, I used the vacuum cleaner transfer method after measuring the down for each chamber out into a plastic container. When removing the vacuum cleaner wand, the charged momentum held on to the down and it was really easy to get the last little pieces stuck to the wand into the jacket.

On a quilt, I would probably not use the vacuum cleaner to transfer the down and would probably go with the ziploc bags again.

I am working on some really small baffled pillows designed to go into a Clark's underpockets. The baffles are very small and the down wants to cling to the entry area. Even if I pack the down into my fist and cram it in there good and then release, there is always that little bit of down around the open part. My next project is a down top quilt based on the RRG quilt. I will only be doing the top quilt part though, it won't have the UQ features.

[Schneiderlein]

I am working on some really small baffled pillows designed to go into a Clark's underpockets. The baffles are very small and the down wants to cling to the entry area. Even if I pack the down into my fist and cram it in there good and then release, there is always that little bit of down around the open part.

That's why I went with the vacuum cleaner wand on the jacket I made. The down chambers were too narrow to get the ziploc bags into, but the vacuum cleaner wand fit nicely. All you have to do is blow the down in. The only problem with the method is that I could only transfer about 4 or 5 grams at a time. There will be a few pieces of down around the opening when you pull the wand out, but the momentum clings to them and you can push them down into the project a bit.

[Mrprez]

That's why I went with the vacuum cleaner wand on the jacket I made. The down chambers were too narrow to get the ziploc bags into, but the vacuum cleaner wand fit nicely. All you have to do is blow the down in. The only problem with the method is that I could only transfer about 4 or 5 grams at a time. There will be a few pieces of down around the opening when you pull the wand out, but the momentum clings to them and you can push them down into the project a bit.

I tried that with a cardboard tube, but the vacuum is too powerful. These baffles on took about 6 grams per...I'll have to see if I can find a plastic vacuum tube, I know there is one around here somewhere...

[warbonnetguy]

I haven't tried it yet but given the difficulties I've had with slick fabrics sliding around I am going to use dissolving tape to temporarily hold seams while sewing them on my next tarp. It's a double-sided tape that dissolves in water. Here's one kind, I believe there are others.
Just a thought.
-Redtail

it won't stick to sil, no tape will, not even c3. water soluable glue stick will work, but will be a mess.

[koaloha05]

it won't stick to sil, no tape will, not even c3. water soluable glue stick will work, but will be a mess.

After fooling around with ways to keep sil together the only two methods that have worked for me have been pins and spot welding. Tried to avoid pins, but then resigned to the reality that pins are your friend when it comes to silnylon.

[Redtail]

it won't stick to sil, no tape will, not even c3. water soluable glue stick will work, but will be a mess.

Thanks WBG, hadn't tried it yet, won't waste my money. I'll stick with pins (no pun intended).

[stoikurt]

I found a 6' long metal ruler at Lowe's. It's 2 or 2.5 inches wide and thick enough that it won't heat up too much before you get your line cut.

I also had a piece of compressed fiber board left over from my son's speaker box project that I used as a backing for cutting.

[Ramblinrev]

Thanks WBG, hadn't tried it yet, won't waste my money. I'll stick with pins (no pun intended).

Put the pins in crosswise of the seam. That keeps the silnyl from sliding along the pin. It also makes it easier to pull the pins out as you sew. It is tempting to sew right over the pins. I don't advise it for two reasons. If you hit the pin with the needle it will certainly dull the needle. Not a good thing for very fine fabrics. You want as sharp a needle as you can get. There is a possibility of breaking the needle.

Secondly, the only times I have left pins in a finished piece are when I have sewed over them thinking "oh I'll get it later." I do get it. In the hand, or the wrist or the head in the case of a tarp.

[Cannibal]

Put the pins in crosswise of the seam. That keeps the silnyl from sliding along the pin. It also makes it easier to pull the pins out as you sew. It is tempting to sew right over the pins. I don't advise it for two reasons. If you hit the pin with the needle it will certainly dull the needle. Not a good thing for very fine fabrics. You want as sharp a needle as you can get. There is a possibility of breaking the needle.

Yeah see, you'd think it would only take once, or maybe even twice to learn that lesson. Ohhh nooooo, not me; I'm stubborn! I started wearing eye protection when sewing.

I have grown past those evil ways of my sewi..err gear making youth and now put the pins in line with the seam. Though I must admit, I miss those moments of terror wondering if the needle would miss.

[Ramblinrev]

Sew your own seam... but if things slip around the crosswise pin is harder to shift. Just my observation there is no where it is written in stone. I will inevitably end up with the head of the pin facing the presser foot when I set them in-line and then I stitch too close to get it out easily. In fact even so I keep a pair of needle nose pliers beside the thread injector so I can grab those crosswise pins when they get under the presser foot.