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  1. #1
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    Top Quilt Design Help

    This is my first real sewing project and I need some help as I'm heading for a hang this weekend and might need the warmth.

    I'm making a top quilt with 6oz. Primaloft Sport and M50 fabric. I'm planning to sew it "inside out" on the top and both sides. Then I will sew the bottom after turning it rightside out. I want to end up with the following finished dimensions and features:



    My Questions:
    1) Is there anything special about the seams that I should be doing? In other words, is it just a 1/2" rolled hem for the drawstrings and a single stitch through insulation ->bottom shell-> top shell before I turn inside out?

    Answer: Straight seam on edge. 3/4-1" rolled hem for drawstring.

    2) Do I need to do any additional reinforcements for the grossgrain loops?

    UNANSWERED

    3) Should the snaps run through the grossgrain, or through the actual quilt?

    Answer: Putting snaps in Grossgrain loops preferred for strength.

    4) How should I sew in the zipper? Is it sewn with the initial inside-put stitching, or do I sew it afterwards? Do I need to allow for additional material/fabric?

    Answer: Scrapping the zipper idea for simplicity (and possibly weight).

    5) How much additional fabric/seam allowances do I need?
    Answer: 3/4-1" allowance on each side for straight seam to ensure insulation is caught (trim down to ~1/4" after sewing to save weight).
    1 5/8"-2" allowance for each rolled hem.

    Sorry for all of the questions, I have gone through just about every thread and tutorial and my head is swimming!
    Last edited by mrstop; 04-09-2013 at 14:02.

  2. #2
    New Member HangLow's Avatar
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    Not too sure about your other questions, but I suggest you install the snaps in the grosgrain rather than the Momentum.

    I made a down TQ out of M50 and had a snap rip through during the night. I ended up sewing a small patch of 1.9 ripstop on either side of the quilt where the snaps are installed since I didn't use a grosgrain border. I know M90 is a bit heavier and is ripstop (unlike M50), but I think the snaps would be much more stable in the grosgrain. Test on some scraps beforehand to make sure your snaps can handle all the layers. Snaps are MUCH harder to remove than to install!

    Not sure which snaps you're considering, but I highly recommend size 20 KAM snaps. I've used small metal ones on past projects and much prefer the plastic ones. I paid about $23 for 50 snaps and the pliers to install them. The snaps themselves are quite inexpensive after you've got the pliers.

    Good luck with your build!

  3. #3
    Senior Member AaronAlso's Avatar
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    First things first "relax" and accept that as your first project its not gonna be a production quality piece. I'm not the DIY guru but I use the dreaded thread injector from time to time. (mostly repairs) it sounds like you've planned things out pretty well, now its just time to do it. If you knew me you'd know how much that is the pot calling the kettle black. Anyway, I like to get a nice finished look on my hems and usually give 3/4 -1" for a double rolled hem, hiding the rough edges. Just like working with wood measure twice, cut once. After its been cut there is not putting it back.

    Good luck and remember to post pics when it's done.
    "Good people do not need laws to tell them to act responsibly, while bad people will find a way around the laws." -Plato

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by HangLow View Post
    Not too sure about your other questions, but I suggest you install the snaps in the grosgrain rather than the Momentum.

    I made a down TQ out of M50 and had a snap rip through during the night. I ended up sewing a small patch of 1.9 ripstop on either side of the quilt where the snaps are installed since I didn't use a grosgrain border. I know M90 is a bit heavier and is ripstop (unlike M50), but I think the snaps would be much more stable in the grosgrain. Test on some scraps beforehand to make sure your snaps can handle all the layers. Snaps are MUCH harder to remove than to install!

    Not sure which snaps you're considering, but I highly recommend size 20 KAM snaps. I've used small metal ones on past projects and much prefer the plastic ones. I paid about $23 for 50 snaps and the pliers to install them. The snaps themselves are quite inexpensive after you've got the pliers.

    Good luck with your build!
    I mistakenly put M90, but it is actually M50 so I'll have the same concerns. I'll check out the KAM snaps. I like the idea of plastic as it may save a little weight with less noise potential.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by AaronAlso View Post
    First things first "relax" and accept that as your first project its not gonna be a production quality piece. I'm not the DIY guru but I use the dreaded thread injector from time to time. (mostly repairs) it sounds like you've planned things out pretty well, now its just time to do it. If you knew me you'd know how much that is the pot calling the kettle black.
    Good advice. I have been planning this project for far too long. Other things forced it to get on the back burner, but I really don't want to make another trip with my daughters pink 5 lbs. bag! So not it is time to get off the pot!

    Quote Originally Posted by AaronAlso View Post
    Anyway, I like to get a nice finished look on my hems and usually give 3/4 -1" for a double rolled hem, hiding the rough edges. Just like working with wood measure twice, cut once. After its been cut there is not putting it back.

    Good luck and remember to post pics when it's done.
    You don't have a board stretcher? They come in real handy!

    I'll definitely post pics!

  6. #6
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    Based on your responses and some more clarity of thought, I think I have answered some of my questions. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

    Still trying to understand the grossgrain loop and zipper installation.

  7. #7
    New Member HangLow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrstop View Post
    I mistakenly put M90, but it is actually M50 so I'll have the same concerns.
    The M50 isn't too terrible to work with, pretty similar to silnylon in terms of slipperiness. The fabric has a right and wrong side. The stuff I got from thru-hiker.com had a small label on the face side, so pay attention during your construction. I found it very difficult to tell the sides apart.

    The only gripe I have with the M50 is that it is so airtight. Stuffing my quilt into its bag is quite comical. Pretty much like stuffing an inflated balloon into a coffee cup. You will probably have less of an issue since you're not using down.

    Have you considered snaps for closing up the footbox? I have snaps spaced about 12" apart and am quite pleased with the closure. Since the quilt is wrapped around my legs I don't feel the need for an airtight closure along the sides.

    I also removed the drawcord the foot end and instead use a small loop of shockcord to close it up, like you would tie a ponytail, as suggested by Two Tents in this thread. A little less weight, and no dangling cord to get tangled with during the night.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by HangLow View Post
    The only gripe I have with the M50 is that it is so airtight. Stuffing my quilt into its bag is quite comical. Pretty much like stuffing an inflated balloon into a coffee cup. You will probably have less of an issue since you're not using down.
    Interesting. Maybe we'll need to add a vent like the cuben bags.


    Quote Originally Posted by HangLow View Post
    Have you considered snaps for closing up the footbox? I have snaps spaced about 12" apart and am quite pleased with the closure. Since the quilt is wrapped around my legs I don't feel the need for an airtight closure along the sides.
    Sort of. I kind of liked the flexibility of the zipper should I get into the colder shoulders of the season and if I go to ground. However, it's adding some complexity that I'm not sure I have time to deal with right now. I'll have to put the zipper on the scale versus snaps and grossgrain. Any idea what those #20 KAM snaps weigh?

    Quote Originally Posted by HangLow View Post
    I also removed the drawcord the foot end and instead use a small loop of shockcord to close it up, like you would tie a ponytail, as suggested by Two Tents in this thread. A little less weight, and no dangling cord to get tangled with during the night.
    Interesting. I'll keep this in mind.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by HangLow View Post
    Not sure which snaps you're considering, but I highly recommend size 20 KAM snaps. I've used small metal ones on past projects and much prefer the plastic ones. I paid about $23 for 50 snaps and the pliers to install them. The snaps themselves are quite inexpensive after you've got the pliers.
    Placed an order for the KAM snaps:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...r=490027365380

    I did a mixture of #20 Black, White & Gray along with a #16 Black. I thought the number #16 may be useful for smaller projects.

    Just found the weights of these here:

    #14 KAM snap = 0.47 grams/set
    #16 KAM snap = 0.51 grams/set
    #20 KAM snap = 0.75 grams/set
    Last edited by mrstop; 04-09-2013 at 13:17.

  10. #10
    New Member HangLow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrstop View Post
    Any idea what those #20 KAM snaps weigh?
    I just tossed the 40 or so sets I have left onto the scale. Looks like they weight less than a gram per pair, meaning a stud snap and socket snap together.

    I bought from the same eBay member. You will need to switch the dies that come installed on the pliers to use the size 20 snaps. The pliers come with several dies for different sized snaps. The pliers don't come with instructions, but I found this site very helpful.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrstop View Post
    #20 KAM snap = 0.75 grams/set
    EDIT: Looks like I was close with my weight calculation. They're LIGHT!

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