Thread Injector/Ejector Tips

[diyguy]

I use Gutermann upholstery thread for most of my MYOG projects. The thread is strong, 100% polyester, easy to work with, and readily available in retail outlets. It does require a few adjustments to your injector/ejector to use properly. I thought I’d share some tips to hopefully help others avoid the frustration I experienced in the beginning.

#1 The thread requires a fair amount of tension. Unfortunately, the built-in tension dials on my lightweight home machine couldn’t provide enough tension, leading to bunching, birds nesting, and a lot of frustration and foul language. However, wrapping the thread around the bobbin tensioning disc thingamajig before feeding the thread through the machine provides just the right amount of extra tension necessary. Perfect stitches every single time.

#2 The upholstery thread can sometimes develop a twist that causes bunching problems as the thread feeds through the machine. The trick was to have the thread pull off the end of the spool instead of having the spool spin on top of the machine. A simple Acco clip does the trick (see photo).

#3 This third tip isn’t specific to the Gutermann thread, but it’s so useful that I’d feel I was cheating you if I didn’t mention it. Invest in a walking foot. I bought a cheapie walking foot from JoAnn’s for about $14 or so and it helps tremendously when trying to sew through multiple layers (for example, trying to sew a double felled seam through multiple layers of packcloth, webbing, and pocket mesh on a backpack). I don’t use the walking foot all the time because it is noisy and works loose with extended use, but for thick seams, it’s the bomb.

Anyhow, hope this helps someone. Thanks for reading.

Brian

[WickedKlown2]

To keep the thread from twisting you might want to pick up a Cone Thread Holder from JOANN's or your local Sewing Supply store : http://www.joann.com/dritz-cone-thread-holder/prd12768/



I hope that helps

[diyguy]

To keep the thread from twisting you might want to pick up a Cone Thread Holder from JOANN's or your local Sewing Supply store : http://www.joann.com/dritz-cone-thread-holder/prd12768/



I hope that helps

Thanks. I looked at the thread holder at JoAnn's. I figured I could make the same thing cheaper. The Acco clip was free and therefore saved me $8.99. Plus it's always more fun with a DIY option, right? :-) :-)

[WickedKlown2]

Here is the Cone Thread Holder I made from a piece of butcher block and a .222 brass brazing rod I had laying around .



Here you can see it sitting behind my Singer 328K

[Ramblinrev]

There is a level of personal choice represented here so please do not take this as saying you are wrong. I think upholstery thread is way too thick and strong for most applications of a DIY gear maker. The fact that the home machine has to be tweaked is representative of that concern. IMO thread that is over engineered for the project is a detriment to the project. I have always wanted the thread to be the "weak link" in a seam. If the seam thread is too strong, damage directed at the seam will rip the fabric before the seam fails. If the thread is the weak link the seam will fail before the fabric resulting in a much easier repair both at home or in the field.

Again... there is a personal choice component here and both perspectives have merit. Sew your own seams.

[diyguy]

All good comments. What is your preferred thread?

[WickedKlown2]

Gutermann 100% polyester Sew-All thread from JoAnns : http://www.joann.com/gutermann-sew-a...yds-/prd13385/



I hope that helps

[diyguy]

Thanks. I have several spools of the sew-all thread and it sews beautifully. But it isn't very strong IMO (you can break it easily with bare hands). To hang my fat *** between two trees, I prefer something stronger. It's very possible, however, that I am over thinking things. :-)

[WickedKlown2]

I have seen folks also mention Gutermann thread from DIY Gear Supply : http://www.backwoodsdaydreamer.com/p...s-page/thread/

[Ramblinrev]

[QUOTE=diyguy;1018483 But it isn't very strong IMO (you can break it easily with bare hands). [/QUOTE]

It seems to me there is a misconception about the strength of thread. That is that stronger thread means a stronger construction. This would certainly be intutive, but I am not sure it is correct. The main strength in a hammock, for example, is the fabric itself. The thread used to sew it serves to keep the fabric in place. My belief is there is very little serious strain on the stitching. The number of stitches is significant in this regard. The shorter the stitches (within reason) the stronger the seam. You can check this experimentally but comparing a piece of fabric sewn with long and short stitches. The longer stitches will fail first. Multiple stitch lines provide redundancy. Should the first line fail, the second or third will keep the fabric from coming undone.

There is also the multiplying factor. Take a piece of thread which you can easily break with your hand. Wrap it around in a circle a few times and then try to break the bundle. It will much harder, if not impossible to do. So I find the strength of the thread itself to be a red herring for most home stitchers. For commercial manufacturers it may be a different story. But for the standard DIY gear maker a good high quality sewing thread is my recommendation. But again... personal preference here.