Tips for Sewing Lycra Mesh??

**SoCal Mike** · 05-31-2013, 23:09

Help! I'm trying to add some outside pockets to my DIY external frame pack. I'm trying to make something similar to the side pockets on the Granite Gear packs.

I have some lycra mesh from Questoutfitters, but I'm really struggling with sewing it. It's my understanding that a zig-zag stitch should be used for stretching and it appears that Granite Gear does that, so I think it's the way to go.

For now, I'm just trying to hem some sides. The stitches are horrible and inconsistent, loose (on top and bottom), sloppy, etc.

I'm using a Janome HD1000 sewing machine, standard needle (#12), medium range zig-zag stitch setting. I've messed around a little bit with tension but nothing seems to work. I've also tried keeping the material loose and pulling it taut as it goes through the machine but either way seems to have the same lousy result.

I have not tried a different needle. I think I've read a ballpoint needle is best for this material. I have not tried messing around with the feed dogs, either.

Anyone have any tips or suggestions for sewing this stuff?

Michael (SoCal Mike)

**FLRider** · 06-01-2013, 06:25

Have you tried using bias tape or grosgrain on the sides (or even two layers of scrap ripstop) to provide yourself with a "normal" surface to sew through? I've had better results with sewing stretch mesh in between two layers of nylon, then turning them inside out (for a water bladder holder; I wanted a kangaroo pocket on one side) than trying to just sew through the stuff.

On the other hand, the mesh didn't give me too much trouble with a straight stitch, a denim needle, and the Gutermann Mara 70 thread from DIY Gear Supply. My stitches looked like crap, but that's user issues rather than problems with the tools used.

Hope it helps!

**gmcttr** · 06-01-2013, 08:47

I have zero experience with a heavy mesh of that type...but I would try using tissue paper as a stabilizer.

The outdoorsewing Yahoo Group might be a good place to ask as well.

**SoCal Mike** · 06-01-2013, 08:50

Originally Posted by FLRider

Have you tried using bias tape or grosgrain on the sides (or even two layers of scrap ripstop) to provide yourself with a "normal" surface to sew through? I've had better results with sewing stretch mesh in between two layers of nylon, then turning them inside out (for a water bladder holder; I wanted a kangaroo pocket on one side) than trying to just sew through the stuff.

On the other hand, the mesh didn't give me too much trouble with a straight stitch, a denim needle, and the Gutermann Mara 70 thread from DIY Gear Supply. My stitches looked like crap, but that's user issues rather than problems with the tools used.

Hope it helps!

Thanks, FLRider. I have considered using a mesh-to-grosgrain approach just like you described. I don't think this stuff frays, but I wasn't sure so I was planning on hemming, plus it looks nice. I was also reserving a straight stitch approach if I absolutely could not get the zig-zag to work. I'll keep at it and see what happens.

Michael (SoCal Mike)

**SoCal Mike** · 06-01-2013, 08:53

Originally Posted by gmcttr

I have zero experience with a heavy mesh of that type...but I would try using tissue paper as a stabilizer.

The outdoorsewing Yahoo Group might be a good place to ask as well.

Good tip, gmcttr. I forgot about that approach. I think I have some paper for that technique. Looks like I have some experimenting to do. Right tool for the right job, yeah? I'll also pick up a ballpoint needle if I don't have one floating around out here.

Michael (SoCal Mike)

**Ramblinrev** · 06-01-2013, 09:06

You will regret the straight stitch approach. You will be dealing with broken stitches everywhere. Stick to the zig zag or better yet, if you machine has one, use a stretch stitch. Lycra mesh is a female dog to work with on home machines. A ball point needle may provide some aide.. The big problem is the fabric stretches down into the throat plate which totally screws the pooch as far as tension is concerned. Good luck.

**SoCal Mike** · 06-01-2013, 09:17

Originally Posted by Ramblinrev

You will regret the straight stitch approach. You will be dealing with broken stitches everywhere. Stick to the zig zag or better yet, if you machine has one, use a stretch stitch. Lycra mesh is a female dog to work with on home machines. A ball point needle may provide some aide.. The big problem is the fabric stretches down into the throat plate which totally screws the pooch as far as tension is concerned. Good luck.

Ramblinrev,

Do you think that keeping the material stretched taut as it moves over the dogs will help? I'm not familiar with sewing stretchy stuff, but isn't that what you do with elastic? If so, I'm wondering if this approach may help, along with a different needle and maybe the tissue technique.

Any thoughts on FLRider's tip on sewing between nylon/grosgrain?

Michael

GT · 06-01-2013, 09:29

I would definitely sew an edging around it first then sew it onto the pack.

**Ramblinrev** · 06-01-2013, 10:00

Originally Posted by SoCal Mike

Ramblinrev,

Do you think that keeping the material stretched taut as it moves over the dogs will help? I'm not familiar with sewing stretchy stuff, but isn't that what you do with elastic? If so, I'm wondering if this approach may help, along with a different needle and maybe the tissue technique.

Any thoughts on FLRider's tip on sewing between nylon/grosgrain?

Michael

A quick question to the "expert" (my wife) gave some insight. Elastic is stretched out when sewn because you want the maximum stretch possible in the finished project. The trade off is less stability to the item. Elastic is burly enough that the stability is not an issue. However in your application, you have a choice to make. Do you want maximum stretch or stability? Since the pocket will be attached to the pack stability seems the way to go. At least IMO. So I would _not_ suggest stretching it as you sew.

Use a _BRAND NAME, BRAND NEW_ ballpoint needle and figure on changing them out often. Lycra mesh eats needles for all three meals and snacks during the day. The benefit to a tissue paper base _underneath_ the fabric is it will help keep the fabric from poking down into the throat plate. The down side is precious few things are worse for keeping needles in good shape than tissue paper. It's like forcing a needle through compressed saw dust with every poke.

So there you go. Have fun and remember.... this too will pass. Maybe like a kidney stone... but it will pass.

**SoCal Mike** · 06-01-2013, 10:13

Originally Posted by Ramblinrev

A quick question to the "expert" (my wife) gave some insight. Elastic is stretched out when sewn because you want the maximum stretch possible in the finished project. The trade off is less stability to the item. Elastic is burly enough that the stability is not an issue. However in your application, you have a choice to make. Do you want maximum stretch or stability? Since the pocket will be attached to the pack stability seems the way to go. At least IMO. So I would _not_ suggest stretching it as you sew.

Use a _BRAND NAME, BRAND NEW_ ballpoint needle and figure on changing them out often. Lycra mesh eats needles for all three meals and snacks during the day. The benefit to a tissue paper base _underneath_ the fabric is it will help keep the fabric from poking down into the throat plate. The down side is precious few things are worse for keeping needles in good shape than tissue paper. It's like forcing a needle through compressed saw dust with every poke.

So there you go. Have fun and remember.... this too will pass. Maybe like a kidney stone... but it will pass.

Thanks for consulting the expert. Much appreciated. Off to the store for a ballpoint needle I go! Let's hope it's a bit less painful than a kidney stone.

Michael