I'm planning on making a couple of UQs for my wife and I. The 40* ones I'm going to make 3/4 length, but for the 10* I'm thinking full length. However I'm not sure about the pro/con of 3/4 vs full length other than the obvious of weight. What do you think?
While I'm thinking of it, what is the best fabric in your opinion and why? And is it the same for 40* vs 10*?
Full length means less fiddle factor and more warm (generally). It also means more weight/bulk. That's the primary trade-off.
"Best" fabric is tough. Ripstop nylon (1.0 or 1.1) is certainly the most common as it's fairly inexpensive, doesn't stretch a ton and can be down proof.
M50 (momentum 50) is more expensive, but also more wind/water resistant and lighter. Quantum Pertex and a few others can also be slightly lighter and are occasionally chosen.
So, if money is no object and you feel confident enough in your skills that you won't have a lot of waste, M50 is a very solid choice and is top-of-the-line. Otherwise, stick with a downproof 1.1 ripstop.
A bit more on M50:
http://thru-hiker.com/materials/breathable.php
Last edited by breyman; 06-04-2013 at 10:24.
Brian
Denver, CO
Father. Husband. Scoutmaster.
Space taken up in the pack as well.......Originally Posted by Mouseskowitz
Shug
Whooooo Buddy)))) All Secure in Sector Seven
As a Grad student money is something of an issue. So, I'm thinking ripstop unless someone makes a very compelling case to justify something else. I'm also leaning towards the full length since my feet seem to be the coldest part of me in the hammock.
It seems like not all ripstop is created equal when it comes to down, but I don't get what the difference is, if there is one. From what I understand I want something that has DWR as a vapor barrier. Other than that, wouldn't all 1.0 or 1.1oz ripstop be the same as far as down proofness?
Unless you are deliberately choosing to use vapor barriers as part of your insulation system (and there are those who swear by them, but they're tricky to work out properly, from what I've read), you want breathable nylon for your shell material. DWR is great for underquilts since it's breathable, yet sheds water some (it won't handle a direct downpour but will shed some splashback usually). You want calendared ripstop (calendaring is a process where the fibers are treated with hot rollers to press them together, making the interstices smaller and therefore less likely to leak down clusters).
If you're on a budget, I'd recommend waiting until DIY Gear Supply gets 1.1 seconds back in stock; they're generally the best deal on the market for quilts. Scott is also very up front about how his nylons react to down, and he's top-notch in customer service.
If you're going to order elsewhere, look for "downproof" in the description of the nylon, for sure. Some places are less up front about the downproofness of their nylons and will advertise calendared nylon that isn't quite downproof without telling you.
Hope it helps!
"Just prepare what you can and enjoy the rest."
--Floridahanger
Thanks, that makes sense. I think I had my terminology wrong with "vapor barrier". I was thinking wind and water resistant but breathable. Is there a term for that? When they rate a fabric for X fill power, it's good for anything below that correct?
"Water resistant" is the terminology you want for that. "DWR" is "Durable Water Resistant"--a coating that is applied to the base fabric to make it shed water while still being breathable.
Not sure about the rating for the fill power...buuut, the best deal I know of on down at retail--without reclaiming from a pillow or somesuch--is Wilderness Logics. Which just happens to be 850 FP. Interesting how that works out, no?
Hope it helps!
"Just prepare what you can and enjoy the rest."
--Floridahanger
The fill thing is still confusing. I was reading earlier that it might be harder to contain lower quality down as the quills are what usually poke through. I might have to just shoot them an email and ask.
That's correct. When the quills are larger they can get more easily pushing through (think a big thick stick getting pushed through a trash bag more easily than a small, bendy stick).
High quality fill is worth it. You'll need less and it'll be much warmer for the weight. If you plan on DIY, it's worth spending the little bit extra to end up with a really warm, light solution.
Brian
Denver, CO
Father. Husband. Scoutmaster.
I have 140oz of 800 fill from My Luxe stuff. I managed to get it for an average of $2.27/oz. I should have more than enough for several projects unless my wife gets too attached to using the pillows and comforter.
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