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  1. #1
    Senior Member -FiveFiveSix-'s Avatar
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    Possible new Fixed eye for Amesteel..

    Im trying to find a way to make a fixed eye with amesteel that dose not require the burry to waste 4 inches of line per whoopie, or UCR.. If this works, you should be able to start your burry for the whoopie sling, or URC Right at the hammock.

    This is what I came up with.
    start at the tail, put a mark at 2.5 and 5 inches.. Feed your fid from the tail end at the 2.5 mark, and out at the 5 inch mark



    Next, pull the tail back through...



    It should look like this


    Now burry the tail



    You will end up with this.



    Now look when its looped around the hammock you can start your burry for your whoopie or UCR right at the hammock



    I haven been hanging in this for a few hours now, seems to hold. I have no way of testing this, Perhaps someone here has a more scientific way to do so.
    If this turns out to be a secure way of making a fixed eye, you should be able to decrease your minimum hang distance by about 8 inches or so..

  2. #2
    Senior Member Hiknhanger's Avatar
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    Seems like that should work. Good idea. One thing to consider for an extra margin of safety is to sew a few stitches along the bury to prevent any possible slippage. That might be overkill, but it couldn't hurt.

    Thanks for sharing!

  3. #3
    Senior Member -FiveFiveSix-'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiknhanger View Post
    Seems like that should work. Good idea. One thing to consider for an extra margin of safety is to sew a few stitches along the bury to prevent any possible slippage. That might be overkill, but it couldn't hurt.

    Thanks for sharing!
    I think it needs some tinkering yet, but I wanted to share this, perhaps see if someone else can improve on it, or test it out.. Who knows..

  4. #4
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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    Interesting. I'm tempted to make a dogbone with this on one end and pull until it breaks. Of course that wouldn't prove much, but I don't have the gear for quantitative testing. One thing, though - you need a taper on the end of your bury. That's where failure will occur if the eye itself is strong.

  5. #5
    Senior Member dangerous's Avatar
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    looks like a really interesting idea,I may have to try a few of these and how they do
    -Jon-

  6. #6
    Senior Member -FiveFiveSix-'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WV View Post
    Interesting. I'm tempted to make a dogbone with this on one end and pull until it breaks. Of course that wouldn't prove much, but I don't have the gear for quantitative testing. One thing, though - you need a taper on the end of your bury. That's where failure will occur if the eye itself is strong.
    Care to explain this more? I thought the taper was just to make it easier to bury, I had no idea it was "structural" if you will...

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    Or wrap the larks head twice with a normal fixed eye to move the adjustable bury close to the hammock.

    My guess is you will get by with this as you are using it. However, when someone gets the bright idea to connect to the whoopie by clipping a biner into the eye, it will be a short lived experiment.

    My expectation is when the final bury slips a little, the first bury exit will pull the wrong way (red arrow) and further distort/weaken what is already the weakest point (yellow circle) of a buried splice and greatly reduce it's breaking strength.

    ccdm noted.jpg

    Very interesting idea though.
    Last edited by gmcttr; 08-09-2013 at 15:20.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by -FiveFiveSix- View Post
    Care to explain this more? I thought the taper was just to make it easier to bury, I had no idea it was "structural" if you will...
    The taper is used to prevent the distortion and resulting weak point caused by an abrupt change in size where the bury ends. The aid in making the bury is a happy coincidence.

    This is probably much more important when using larger diameters of rope.

  9. #9
    Senior Member -FiveFiveSix-'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    Or wrap the larks head twice with a normal fixed eye to move the adjustable bury close to the hammock.

    My guess is you will get by with this as you are using it. However, when someone gets the bright idea to connect to the whoopie by clipping a biner into the eye, it will be a short lived experiment.

    My best guess is when the final bury slips a little, the first bury exit will pull the wrong way (red arrow) and further distort/weaken what is already the weakest point (yellow circle) of a buried splice and greatly reduce it's breaking strength.

    ccdm noted.jpg

    Very interesting idea though.
    Hmmmm now you got my thinking.... However Before I attached to my hammock I hung from it, used a biner and a continuous loop to a tree branch it held me bouncing around...

  10. #10
    Senior Member -FiveFiveSix-'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    The taper is used to prevent the distortion and resulting weak point caused by an abrupt change in size where the bury ends. The aid in making the bury is a happy coincidence.

    This is probably much more important when using larger diameters of rope.
    Hmmmmm.. I did not know this.. thank you... I always use a taper when working with zing it, you almost have to in order to splice it, I will take this apart and put a taper in it...

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