When I made mine I made the elastic in the side channels adjustable. Easy enough to lock off in one way or another. But that way There is more leeway in terms of how it fits and being able to stuff other materials inside if need be.
When I made mine I made the elastic in the side channels adjustable. Easy enough to lock off in one way or another. But that way There is more leeway in terms of how it fits and being able to stuff other materials inside if need be.
I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.
"Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn
We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series
Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies
Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint
Heck, you could probably use shock cord in place of elastic if you sewed a channel. But this is a great idea - if you had a pre-sewn channel, you probably could get away with the bar-tacking. I love this idea - makes the whole thing MUCH simpler to sew. See, that is why it pays to post this stuff - someone else sees what was right in front of your face the whole time. I love this site. This site works great when people have constructive criticism and ideas, rather than just criticism.
And the KAQ instructions would probably work to determine if the topcover would need to be modified for a HH. Could probably extend the wing slot openings to MAKE it work, if there is too much of an offset. If you only had a HH, you could just lay the fabric over the HH and do the same process. I wonder if there would be enough "wing" to hold the topcover on with a HH, or if you would need to add an attachment point at the tie-out to hold the topcover down? It would help to see an OEM HH topcover.
Which weighs more, costs more, lasts longer... All deciding type factors.
Seems like the size of the wing wouldn't be as important as the location of the hole. 2-4 inches up from the elastic will keep it in the right place & the side tieout cord should keep it from sliding up.
Yes closeup pics of the OEM overcover would be great! Hint Hint Anyone... Anyone...
My knife is so sharp it cut the sixth finger off my right hand! On the plus side, Inigo Montoya no longer hunts me.
Get over it Finn, I had perfectly valid reasons to believe that foam wouldn't work, and those reasons are just as valid today. Just because you can't take having anyone tell you they don't think ONE of your ideas is a good one doesn't mean I'm a big meanie picking on you.
I think lots of your stuff, including this BB topcover, is pretty freaking awesome. I just think that one foam idea isn't gonna work. Don't take stuff so dang personally.
Rev makes a good point also. With a full length channel by tacking the elastic at one end & a cord lock on the other you could adjust the tension for best results.
Rev, is this what you do for adjustment? Do you find it necessary to adjust often or once the sweet spot is found could it be tacked?
My knife is so sharp it cut the sixth finger off my right hand! On the plus side, Inigo Montoya no longer hunts me.
Yeah, I really like this idea. I plan on actually doing some sewing this weekend, and try this out.
While I was driving home, I also thought "Why not incorporate this into my hammock sock design?" Since the sock bottom is just a mirrored pattern of the topcover, and since the elastic stretch could be made variable or non-existent, I could make a removable bottom for the sock by having the top and bottom fully seperate. Add a full-length, removable zipper down the entire length on one side, and the other side that would normally be sewn together, have full-length omnitape. Two products from one design - full cover sock, or topcover. Too much?
The directions need to be modified - I'll work on that soon.
What I have changed is:
1. Removed the ggr on the ends.
2. Sewn a draw channel along the entire perimeter, with openings on the ends. (Thanks for that idea, Rev.)
3. Run a continuous shockcord through the entire perimeter.
4. 2 cord locks on each end, for 4 total. These are used to control the amount of stretch/snugness to the topcover.
5. Changed the velcro to one longer strip per wing, rather than 3 small strips.
6. Total package now comes in at just under 6 oz.
very nice,,, great job
Here is the cover I had made for my camo BB.
Is the slit in the center for it to fight condensation, or just to peek out of? Nice job btw, I like it.
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